engine removal checklist, advice welcome!

[bevans6]

I hopefully plan to remove my engine over your long Thanksgiving holiday weekend.  I say yours because ours (Canada) was a month and a half ago, but since I work for an American telephone company selling services in the US and ROW to Canadian Telco carriers, I have virtually nothing to do while you-all eat turkey and shop, so I pretty much get the long weekend too...   

Here is the plan - 8V-71, MC-5C style.  Tell me where I am wrong or doing things in the wrong order.  I kind of figure safety things first, then big things that are in the way, then electrical and hoses, then dirty oily things as a general guide to order.

shut off power at the main disconnect.  Test for no power.

Jack up the rear of the bus and block it.  Set it just below the height where my engine removal dolly will hit the block flange so I can jack it up higher later, slide in the dolly and let it down so the engine is picked up by the dolly by 1/2"

Take off the rear bumper, etc.

Disconnect and remove the exhaust system.

Disconnect the driveshaft at the output flange of the gearbox.

disconnect the shift and clutch linkage to the gearbox.

disconnect the power steering lines, drain the power steering fluid.  Are there quick disconnects or sealing connectors in those lines to the front of the bus?

Disconnect the air line from the compressor to the manifold, disconnect the lines to the air governor.  Not sure how to get to the governor, frankly, maybe from inside the bus?

Disconnect  the electrical harnesses that go to the engine, not sure where to do that or how many there are.

disconnect the cables to the starter motor.

Disconnect the air control hoses for high idle, etc.  Take the fan belt off.  Disconnect the air line to the clutch air assist.

Disconnect the throttle cable.

Look around for anything else to disconnect.  Not sure what else there will be.

Drain the oil from the engine.

Drain the coolant from the engine, hopefully finding out how to close off the rest of the cooling system - I think one valve low on passenger side, one valve high on driver side.  Open drain plugs, drain the block as much as possible.

Disconnect hoses to the cooling system.

With everything out of the way, it will be easier to get to the air intake and disconnect the air cleaner feeds to the blower intake.  Tape over intake immediately.

not sure if I need to remove the air cleaners or how to do that, but pretty sure the alternator will not slide out past the air cleaners.  Either remove the air cleaners or take out the alternator.  In any case disconnect the cables to the alternator.

Presumably the engine is now ready to come out.

Undo the U-bolts that hold the cradle to the frame.

Jack up the bus another inch or two, slide the dolly into position.

Lower the bus so that the engine is picked up on the dolly.  Make sure the top bits don't hit the roof of the engine bay, minimal clearance.

Pull the engine out straight, it should just roll out I would think.

have a refreshing libation while pressure washing it and admiring my prowess.

Put it in the garage for  another day's work.

Anything big i am missing?  Any tips or tricks of the trade?

thanks, Brian

[Melbo]

On My MC8 I found that having the back up in the air and not the front made the rails the cradle slides on not level so as the engine was removed and reinstalled it had to be raised moved raised moved raised moved etc and then the opposite going in so my only suggestion and or observation is to have the rails level to keep things much more simple.

Melbo

[gus]

Be sure to label every wire and hose two times.

Put all small parts in marked containers, I use old plastic food containers.

[divinerightstrip]

Be sure to label every wire and hose two times.

Put all small parts in marked containers, I use old plastic food containers.

I was just about to say this!!
Get yourself a roll of blue painter's tape and a sharpie and label every connection! I don't care if you swear that you can remember it! Do it anyways!

Here's a pic of my taping for inspiration!!!!!

[5B Steve]

   Brian,


   Good luck on the engine swap.  Might want to check the hoses on the water pump there a P.I.T.A. (At least my was) if you

   need to replace them!


   Steve 5B.....

[grantgoold]

Please take lots of pictures so the rest of us can get a bit more comfortable with the our own future swaps.

Grant

[Van]

Many photos if possible 

[divinerightstrip]

heh I got that taken care of!
Actually, I have started a blog on my company's website if anyone is interested, but then again there is also always the magazine!

www.sparmachine.com
-DRT

[skihor]

You can buy packages of assorted color zip ties.
Put one, (same color), on each side of each connection before dissconnecting. Use different colors on each connection. If you run out of colors just start over keeping the same, (repeat), colors far enough apart so it won't be confusing.

Don & Sheila

[desi arnaz]

when you run out of a color of the zip ties go to 2 each  and then 3 each

[DMoedave]

Advil, lots of Advil. I have a hard time with gloves but they make a hand cream that helps get the grease off at the end of the day. The blue tape is a great idea. Reg tape and duct tape dont hold up as well. The digital camera is a great rememberance tool but i never find time to take enough while working, get as assistant. Plenty of good lights, proper lever bars,blocks and jacks clean floor, speedy dry and rags, water and snacks, radio (sattilite radio!) and i like to set up some sawhorses with a 8X12 on top for a close up work area. I think you have the work area covered! When you get tired take a break, problems can dissapear after a step back. Sometimes. Good luck and be carefull.

[Tom Y]

Block between the bumpers, at the axles. I use 3X3X1/4 tuping for this. As it may be a long project to keep it from setteling. Good Luck.  Tom Y

[Brian Diehl]

Bryan,
On the power steering ... yes, use the quick disconnects.  They will prevent all the power steering fluid from draining out of the system.  The quick disconnects are on the bulkhead on my 96A3 and most likely the same place on yours.  The nuts that hold the disconnects on can be tight, but a little persuasion should do the trick.  Take care not to let the drive shaft drop on anything and put scratches/dings in the splines.  Then once apart cover the splines with a plastic bag so you don't get contaminants in the grease.