Info needed on this motor

[kyle4501]

I bought a 8V92T out of a 1980 Peterbilt truck.
I heard it run before we cut it out & it ran well. It starts very easily & the only smoke was black.
I pulled a valve cover & it has 9A90 injectors.
It does not have Jakes, so there is something else I will be searching for.

I need help deciphering the information on the motor.

The tag on the block, pass side near front:
12-97
8FF2267       8087-7826
  STD               STD


The block has 17752 stamped on the pass side rear.


The blower tag:
type - DW-LS
idle range _______
F12/97
governor No - R8927169

Thanks for any help!

[Ericbsc]

From here it smells like it is silver!!!!

[luvrbus]

No telling what you have Kyle 8VF2267 should be the serial number I have no idea where the 8FF2267 is coming from, fwiw 2267 will not be a sliver all I can find is 2267 is a aftercooled block non by pass blower was 430 hp when it was born.
Kyle it is easy to tell a green from a silver looking at the front of the engine if the turbo oil supply line comes from the lower right corner it will be a green,the silver will come from the lower left side,on the rear it can feed from either side  


good luck

[kyle4501]

Thanks Clifford,
The turbo oil line goes towards the passanger side of the front of the engine & disappears behind the water pump. Didn't see any oil feed on the driver's side front.

When I can, I'll separate it from the frame & post some pictures.

Eric,
It fills my shop! It didn't look so big in Ozone's shop!
I NEED more room!

[TomC]

My first truck was a 1980 KW with 8V-92TA.  I can tell you that it was originally painted dark gray-almost black and was called an 0092 (double O for owner/operator).  I had the same 9A90's and was rated at 435hp with 1225lb/ft torque.  Good engine-went 500,000 miles before the first overhaul.  It didn't originally have a bypass blower (that came out later on).  Call Don Fairchild for Jakes.  Good Luck, TomC

[kyle4501]

Clifford,
Here are 2 pictures of the rear of the blower - from what I understood of your description, it doesn't look like a bypass.

Thanks,
Kyle

[TomC]

The bypass blower valve actually would sit on top of the blower in the back and from what I see from your two pictures, there is a mounting bracket in the way of seeing the top back of the blower.  If the engine is more or less original from 1980, it will not have the bypass blower valve.  This is something I added later-I believe that came out around 1984.  Good Luck, TomC

[luvrbus]

It is not a by pass blower Kyle it has the old style supply line and end cover

good luck

[kyle4501]

Well then, it looks like I need to accept the generous offer for a by pass blower. 

I'm making progress in identifying lines & hoses on & around the motor in preparation to remove it from the frame. I thought buses were hard to access things, but this cabover is something else! Amazing to me how close they ran wires & hoses to the exhaust manifolds & how tight things are in there!

[kyle4501]

I pulled the exhaust pipes from the manifolds.
The insides are powder dry & pitch black - That's a good thing, right?

Still can't see if there is a serial # on the block - If there is one at the front, it is hidden by the frame rails & misc hoses.

The radiator is drained & now loose. All I have to do now is pick it up . . . . My gantry isn't tall enough to pick it up easily. Time to get creative.

[RickB]

Kyle,

After having gone through my truck 8V92 experience/debacle last winter I woulsd suggest that if you have reason to believe this is a good motor but it has sat for a long time, figure out a way to hone the cylinders before you run it. I know that sounds like a complete pain in the butt but the motor I found would have been a great motor if I just would have had them pull the pistons and hone the cylinders. You probably have it on a stand and it would be so much easier now rather than later. I know that the argument will be "well if he's got it apart, why not rebuild it", and that is a valid argument.

Unfortunately, there is a downside to letting a healthy motor sit for a long time (you never said how long this thing has sat) and if it isn't coated with a sealing agent it can develop corrosion that you can't see with the naked eye. My cylinders walls looked great from the airbox access ports but over years of non-use they had developed a film of condensation that created microscopic rust particles that could have been honed out easily.

I have no idea if the pistons can be installed from the bottom end of the motor (I doubt it but others here would know I'm sure) but if they can, pull the pan, crank and pistons, hone the cylinders, clean everything, throw in a new set of main bearings and give your motor a good chance at a longer life. Or, take your chances but if you do it wrong the couple of drips out of the slobber tubes will trun into a steady stream in 5-10 minutes of running


Just trying to help,
Rick

[kyle4501]

Yeah Rick, that is a good point, while all indications so far indicate the engine is a good one as is, I'm aware that may not be the case.
This engine was last run on 10-14 & it sounded & acted great. It has been inside ever since. No dripping oil leaks, but several areas with dampness ~1" from a seam.

My plan is to remove the engine from the truck frame & have Gene Russell look it over with the intention of installing Jakes, a bypass blower, & rod & main bearings. If the inspection shows problems, a new plan may be required. Worst case is I paid below average for a complete core. 

Then I will follow the DD procedure for long term storage. Hope to have it installed this summer. 

I have room to leave the turbo on top of the motor, but I may consider relocating it to accommodate an intercooler.

BTW,
The airbox drains were routed to the oil pan, but someone has bypassed that & now, they drain to the ground with no valve in the line.

[luvrbus]

Kyle, if you do relocate the turbo for a intercooler start looking for a turbo with a A/R of 2.25 to 2.95 you need to about double the  stock A/R to reap the full benefits of a intercooler on the 8v92 or 6v92 and you will need a set of injectors also


good luck

[kyle4501]

Oh dear, It seems one upgrade leads to another!      Who could have seen that coming? 

I currently have just over 2" clearance over the turbo to the floor above the engine. Reducing the heat next to the floor is why I would want to relocate the turbo - If I'm making new piping from turbo to intake, it would be the time to add an intercooler.

At this time I don't forsee a need for much over the ~435HP from the 9A90s I have now. However, if the inspection reveals a need for a teardown, it pays to have already considered the options . . . 
(besides, Tim Allen & Dave Lang are in my ear saying things like "more power" & "you can never have too much power in reserve" . . . )

So, if I was to pursue the bigger turbo & intercooler route, what injectors should I be looking for? Would it be for more HP or better mileage at a given HP setting?
Would I need to change cams & liners to match the ports & valve action to better match the power profile?


Been a while since I've hot-rodded  a vehicle, but I do know it all has to match to get the best results. Hence the questions.

Thanks for all the input & ideas!
Kyle

[kyle4501]

The turbo has a tag that says it is a model TV 8108.
The exhaust housing has AR 1.8

Is that right? The info I can find indicates it should have a lower AR . . . Is it possible the housing was changed?