running engine with the radiator removed

[David Anderson]

I cannot believe how difficult it has been to replace these tranny cooler hoses.  I had all 3 made up reusing my fittings.  They were field reusable type.  I put the radiator  back in, filled it, fired her up and oil poured out of the fitting on 1 of the 6 and on the one that only has access by removing the radiator.  I cannot tell how it is spilling from the hose end from the bedroom.  I have to see it from the side.  The only way is to run the engine without the radiator.  Can this be done? 

I've got some drums I could put water in and build a stand that would put it above the static level of the water pump.  The drum fittings are 2".  My coolant pipe is bigger, but at idle it shouldn't take a huge flow of water to satisfy the engine.   What is a good way to do this?  I am really frustrated.  I'm going on two weeks to replace these hoses.  Maybe I should have spent the $400 on 6 new fittings.  I've got a feeling I'm headed that direction anyway.

David

[luvrbus]

David, on the bottom hose go to a hardware or plumbing supply buy yourself a reducer and use a water hose adapter connect a water hose if you have a dual outlet on the bottom plug one side on the top reduce it to a 1 inch same if it is a dual outlet on top just plug one side and pipe it to a drain or barrel it works I do it all the time without problems the fresh water will keep the engine cool 




good luck

[Kenny]

If all your going to do is run the engine for a short time to determine where the tranny hose leak is. Remove the radiator and replace it with a temporary hose between the two radiator hoses. Fill cooling system back up with water. Water will circulate as normal but without the radiator.
Kenny

[junkman42]

David, If You can loosen the fitting try shaking the hose so that the taper can seat itself.  Tighten the b nut just enough to provide resistance and shake the hose to center the fitting.  sometimes the flanges cock and no amount of tightening will stop the leak when centering the fitting flanges will seal it up.  good luck John L

[Dreamscape]

David, Are they standard JIC fittings? Junkman provides sound advice. I've installed a lot of hydraulic hoses/fittings over the years and sometimes they can be a real bear to line them up, especially with larger hoses. Hopefully you didn't cross thread them, which can happen, don't ask!

Paul

[David Anderson]

Thanks guys.  The pvc pipe loop worked great.  The JIC fitting was loose.  This is the one that is the most difficult to turn, and I really thought I had it tight before reinstalling the radiator.  I made a special 2" wrench to get on it to turn it.  I finally rigged a way to get leverage and enough swing to get the fitting tight.  I ran the coach at idle for about 5 minutes, no leaks.  I then reinstalled the radiator fan, shroud and radiator, topped it off and ran it at high idle for 20 minutes to heat everything up.  No leaks  Finally, the hose installation from hell is over.  I know I spent at least 40 man hours on this.  

I did add some stuff, a left bank temp gauge, a block heater, cleaned and repainted all the street side of the engine.  tie wrapped some saggy hoses and wiring, and a thorough inspection of everything around the radiator and replaced the exhaust manifold and pipe.  My total cost for parts, etc. was around $900. Oh, and I only have one bloody knuckle and all my fingers still attached.

David

Edit:  8/26/10
I took the coach out this morning an drove it about 20 miles.  No leaks.  Yippee.

[Melbo]

David

You have encouraged me to keep going --- I have my trans cooler ready to go and need hoses for cooling and oil -- mine are more accessible but still hard to reach and need to be custom made or adapted.

Melbo

Good to hear that you are getting it done!!!