Air drain valves on wet/dry tank

[bryanhes]

My drain valves are leaking air pretty badly so I am replacing them. Problem is the type of valves that were on it are a positive lock type (I think). They make a click when closing. I had replaced my coolant shut-off valves and they look similar but not a positive lock type. Maybe they will work here. Just not sure if they would hold up to the pressure. I thought possibly these had an o-ring but are just brass to brass.

Anyone know where I can get these? Already checked Napa. Maybe Luke?

Below is a picture of the valve.

Thanks,
Bryan

[buswarrior]

Ask the NAPA what they do have.

Drain valves are nothing special.

As long as there's some resistance to it's being opened, get the threads to match.

This would be a good time to add a valve that will accept a male air tool fitting for another place to air up the coach/add alcohol/take a pressure reading.

Teflon tape on the install.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[jackhartjr]

Any truck trailer or truck dealer will sell you an inexpensive drain valve that you tie a cable to and when you pull it, then the valve drains.
Jack

[Dreamscape]

Bryan, I would not recommend using Teflon tape on your air fittings, use joint compound for pneumatics instead. It's a little messier to use but worth the effort. It works better than the tape. I use miles of the stuff before I found out that it can mess with vavles if even the slightest thread of tape gets in the system.

Paul

[Ed Hackenbruch]

I had that type of valve on my tanks.  I changed them all out for the lanyard type drain valves from Napa, about $15 each.

[bryanhes]

BW,
I thought the other valves might work. Was just concerned about air pressure. They have some with the same male and female ends. I already installed a valve off my muffler (ping tank, one of the first things I did). Sure makes it nice to air up the system without running the engine.

Paul,
I will keep that in mind. I have used Teflon on a few things. I wonder if I got a piece sucked back into my check valve off the rear left  air leveling arm  because i seem to loose air quicker than before I changed the air bag in the rear 

Ed & Jack,
These are located right inside my access door for fuel. They run vertical with the bulkhead.
My wet/dry tank on the GMC is above the batteries then the lines run forward through the bulkhead and turn down beside the fuel tank. Then a copper line runs to the bottom of the coach for moisture to drain out.
I don't thing lanyards would work well here.

Thanks guys,
Bryan

[gus]

Bryan,

Those old type valves are a pain in the neck, they are often very hard to turn. I have some on old trucks and I usually end up using pliers to open them. I'm going to replace them with the spring type.

When possible, the spring loaded valves w or w/o lanyards are best. If you don't need a lanyard use an old key ring. I realize they won't work for you because of the drain pipe.

It would be great if you could find the right size ball valve with a stainless steel ball, they are really easy to turn. I don't know if they are made in 1/8" NPT which yours probably are.

[bryanhes]

My valves are 1/4" pipe thread on both ends. I picked a couple up at Napa today. Are a little different but are supposed to be rated for 300psi. They are a little smaller but the lever turns easily enough. So I will put them on tomorrow. This should take care of a majority of the air leaking.

Here are the new valves.

Bryan

[gus]

I'm surprised those valves are still made, look almost the same as the old one.

They should make good cooling system drains.

[bryanhes]

Gus,

Funny you mention that. I also used the same valves on my coolant filter lines a month ago. That was why I was a little apprehensive about them working for 120psi on the air system.

Installed them on the air side and they work great and seem to hold the pressure fine (supposed to be rated to 300psi). Although now that I have fixed the two valves from my wet/dry tank it exacerbated the leak at the auxiliary tank drain valve. So back to Napa I went to pick up yet another valve  I did however forget that I need one more for the third coolant shut off valve  . At least they are only 5 minutes away.

They are $13.33 + tax. So at this point I have about $87 in valves but the leaks are going away 

For anyone needing valves for coolant or air the Napa part# G33710-0404

Bryan
 

[Dreamscape]

Thanks Bryan, I need to pick up a couple myself! Good Score!

Paul

[bryanhes]

Your welcome Paul  
It seems that with all the spraying I have done to find little leaks the larger ones are at the old valves. I have found one I think at a T junction but the valves are definitely big bubble blowers. I did not notice the one at the auxiliary tank until I replaced the other two on the wet/dry tank. Then I could hear it as I walked by my tool door. Never heard it before  
Maybe she will be tighter than a frogs butt before I know it  

Bryan