Loctite Gasket Eliminator 518 Sealant

[gus]

Anyone ever use this stuff and how did it work?

[bevans6]

That looks like very good stuff, I am going to get some and try it.  It is non-silicone, cures in the absence of air (anerobic), so it won't cure well if it isn't between two surfaces and won't go off or skin up if you take a while before assembly and doesn't drip and run (thixotropic) which is very useful if you want a sealer that stays where you put it until you assemble.  This is exactly what I could use on gearboxes and things like that.

What is your application?

Brian

[luvrbus]

Gus, I don't know how good it works in other places buy it won't last between a dropbox and the differential on a Eagle 2 months for me and I was told it holds better on aluminum surfaces 


good luck

[junkman42]

If the loctite is used on dry, clean machined surfaces such as blower end plates the only way You will get them apart again is heat to 350 or soaking in solvent such as acetone.  I used this product on large vacuum pumps and vacuum boosters and also on motorcycle cases.  Clean is the key!  John L

[Lee Bradley]

I prefer the 510 as it has a higher temp range to 400; I have used it for 30+ years.  Also have a tube of 509 Flexible Sealant on hand for thermostat housing. I have not used Teflon tape or pipe dope on tapered threads for least that long, I use Threadlocker Blue.

[gus]

John L,

I don't think this stuff is permanent like Loctite thread sealants, it appears to be different stuff, kind of soft and rubbery. What you described sounds like permanent thread sealant like Permatex Red.

Am I wrong about this?

I had planned to use it to seal my rear axle flange to the hub. Silicone was used before but I have a tube of this stuff left over from some other project (don't remember what) and it sounds like it is ideal for this. There is a gasket on the hub but it has a couple of gaps I had planned to fill with 518 just as the silicone was used. I'm not a great admirer of silicone as gasket material when exposed to oil.

I think the temp max is around 250*, plenty for this application.

luvrbus,

What is a drop box?

[Zeroclearance]

I have used 574 for many years.   It's orange vs the red 518.    The GM packaged 518 was/is used on the Northstar alum engines.

Clean all surfaces with acetone or MEK  (nitrile gloves)   The nice thing with 574 you can re-open a case or cover to inspect or repair, and clean the surfaces and just recoat.    You can leave the old material in place without scraping.    The new sealant bonds with the old 574, the old sealant is like a "primer"

Any sealant that is on the internal side will disolve in the oil or gearlube.

[junkman42]

Gus, the best for flanges etc is loctite 510.  It is rigid when set and if a small amount is placed on both flanges it is more effective.  Again clean flanges using alcohol or trichlorethane.  Some solvents leave a residue such as acetone etc.  If You want to insure that it will not move or leak go to a yamaha shop and get some yamabond and apply it to both flanges before assembling.  With a couple of bucks and My advise You can get a cup of java at the golden arches!  John L

[gus]

Thanks guys, I'm getting a quick education on sealants here!!

I must have gotten the tiny tube of 518 with some replacement part for the wife's '89 Cad which has the Northstar engine, I just don't remember where it came from? I've replaced a bunch of parts on it over the years, it is a great engine.

This is what Loctite's website says;

Loctite® 510 Gasket Eliminator Flange Sealant
High Temp Rigid
High temperature resistance with excellent solvent and chemical resistance
Typical applications:
High temperature applications
200*F
   
Loctite® 518 Gasket Eliminator Flange Sealant
General Purpose Flexible
Flexible, solvent-resistant seal that will not tear or decay
Typical applications:
Resists low on-line test pressures while uncured
150*F

Loctite® 574 Flange Sealant
Fast Cure Semi-Rigid
Fast curing gasketing material with some flexibility
Typical applications:
For large gaps or fast return to service
150*F

I'm surprised at the max temps, I expected them to be much higher? Many places on an engine are more than 150*F and, as I remember, my rear hubs run about 140 -150*F during hot summer days.