Help with a headliner

[Dave Siegel]

Morning everyone,
I have a 1948 Silversides. I have installed ridgid foam insulation and a 3/16" bendable insul board over the top of that. I was going to wall paper the insul board with heavy duty vinyl textured wall paper, but now my wife (the real boss) wants  real vinyl. I have enough, and yesterday I just bought some landau foam to pad the insul board first.

Can I use the heavy duty wall paper paste of must I use contact cement. I am reluctant to use contact cement because of such a closed in small space in our coach. I plan to install the vinyl side to side in 60" wide strips.  I wonder if I can just put the vinyle up ad NO landau foam? I'll use small strips of vinyl to cover the seams.

Any ideas will help. I read the article in BC a couple of month's ago and I am afraid to tackle what that guy did.

Dave Siegel 1949 Silversides
Naples, Florida

[Ace]

Dave not knowing for sure but I would think the wallpaper paste would not be strong enough for the vinyl. I would go ahead and use the contact cement. That's what I used and the smell only stays around for a short time and then all is fine. As for your seams? I take it your running the vinyl side to side? I would look for a wooden trim piece over the actuall vinyl to give it a little accent and the trim piece might be a little easier to install. I was lucky. My ceiling is relatively flat so I was able to use 3/8 plywood and covered it with laminate flooring foam before covering it with the vinyl. I had to stretch the heck out of the vinyl before securing it on the back side with the contact cement and I also insured it with staples. So far, no wrinkles and it looks good and smooth!

Ace

[ChuckMC8]

Dave, I think that you will have to use contact cement. Unless the underlayment is SLICK, I mean no dips, gaps or defects, you may get by without the foam. The vinyl amplifies the defect instead of covering it up. I used marine grade vinyl that already had the 1/4" foam attached to the vinyl. You do pick up a little insulation/sound deadning as well from the foam. I placed my vinyl across the ceiling instead of a super long peice.I used a dividing strip of white plastic trim that is sold for Airstream trailers to make the transition to the next peice. So, my ceiling "panels' are 54" wide (Standard upholstery material width) I started with one peice in the bedroom at the rear of the coach, did that one and then went to the front and installed the frontmost peice. Went back to the back and put one up and then the front and so on. Of course, the length of the bus doesnt equate to exact 54" sections, so I worked to the hall, and the last peice there is about 30" or so. The trim has a base that staples down, then you put in the material and snap the cap on. The cap is about 3/4" wide.
If you look on the BNO archives under 'headliner' there are lots of tips on spraying contact cement. Buy a good resperator first.
One caution, tho, if you use the foam backed vinyl, be careful not to press the vinyl so hard that it compresses the foam and glues the vinyl directly to the plywood/ceiling. This method minimizes, but dosent completely hide flaws in the plywood. Get it as slick as possible before you begin applying the vinyl.
click on my profile and you can see my photo page with pics of the headliner-hope this helps 

[Dave Siegel]

Thanks Chuck,
That is the look I am going for. The underliner is very, very smooth. But I did buy some closed cell landau top foam (3/16" thick) and that would make a good base.
To make sure I understand, you got your your sub base up first. It was smooth. Then you contact cemented the vinyl to the ceiling, or you stapled it? How did you keep it straight with no wrinkles?

Dave

[ChuckMC8]

Here's my installation method: I found it easier to work alone (dang good thing, as we all know). First, I snapped a chalk line down the center of the ceiling from front to back. Next, I made a measurement across the bus that allowed enough vinyl to have a little extra room to trim on the ends. I beleive it was about 9' on my MC8. I cut the material to that length. Then, I determined the center of the vinyl and snapped a line on the foam side of the vinyl. So, when installed,the line on the vinyl goes to the line on the ceiling and all is straight. Yo-kay......So at this point, your ceiling is marked and your first peice of vinyl is marked.
   Now, you need to make 2 dead men....no, that that kind....make them out of 1X2 or even 1/2" x 2 and cut them to the length that they have to be bowed to go from the floor to the ceiling. You then need a peice of 1"X2" cut a little longer than your vinyl is wide. So if you set up your dead men and the other 1x2, the dead men hold the center stick firmly against the ceiling.
This may still require a photo.......but then, take your dead men down and drape the vinyl over the center 1x2 and use the dead men on each end to hold it firmly against the ceiling ,right down the center of the bus, making the chalk lined match.
  Still no glue sprayed at this point.....adjust the vinyl by sliding it across the dead man untill you decide its where you want it. You can adjust it in 4 four directions at this point, so make sure its where you are happy, Then, using app respretaor and othe rsaftey precautions, spray the glue on one side of the ceiling, and then on the same side of the vinyl. When its ready to stick, start at the dead man (center) and work toward the window, being careful not to press hard enough to compress the foam and make a dent in the ceiling. At this point remove the dead men, and spray the other side as before and work from the center out.
   If you use the trim that I use, you thenstaple the base of the moulding up,side to side.The trim is hard enough to trip the vinyl bu letting the installed vinyl slightly go over the trim base, then using a razor blade, it slices easily with the base a guide.
  Starting the next peice, you want the vinyl to just cover the trim joint that you just installed. After the peice is glued,trim it with the razor and snap on the 3/4" cap. Wait and make the side trim over the windows after all the ceiling panels are up.
   If your floor to ceiling height chnges much, your dead men will coply until they get two short, then you put a scrap of wood under them to keep the spring in them.
Then, Its just repeating process till you finish. I did mine in about 8 hours, longest time was developing the method, then, nothing to it........Clear as mud? I can do a mock up and send a few photos or help anyone close to Atlanta- Hope this helps, Chuck

[Dave Siegel]

That sounds like it would work. Can you rent an asperator, from Home Depot? This is the only use I would ever have for one.

Dave