6V92 not firing

wrench · June 11, 2009, 05:52:25 PM

I need some pointers to fire up a detroit 6V92, it's a 1990 in an Orion bus so I believe it a DDEC, been sitting for 9-12 months. Beside fuel filter, is there a way to check if the injector are firing? There should be a plug in the end of the head to flush the supply gallery? or a return line? What safety may be on? Some one else been on & could not get it going!! I am used to diesel(cummins, detroit mechanical).
Thank for any help
wrench
PS: Was there a link to a service manual/information posted a while back?(I tryed to trace back but??

Dallas · June 11, 2009, 06:06:06 PM

I'm not good with engine ecm's either, but if you need it I have a bunch of DDEC I and II pdf files that may help.
You may also want to check all those pesky grounds that make life with a bus miserable.

luvrbus · June 11, 2009, 06:27:08 PM

Wrench check the power supply the DDEC 6v92 is still a mechanical injected engine the solenoids just meters the fuel to be injected good luck

MCI-RICK · June 11, 2009, 06:28:24 PM

Wrench,

There's a lot of info on the DDEC 6V92 at the link below, I think it's what you're looking for.

www.tpub.com/content/trucktractor6x4/TM-9-2320-302-20/

Rick

MCI-RICK · June 11, 2009, 06:41:27 PM

Wrench,

I spent a couple hours, a few weeks back, trying to figure out why my bus would not even turn over. It was a ground! Like Dallas said, check your ground. Do you have good voltage? My bus will not start if the batteries go under 10 volts. Not trying to be insulting but does it have fuel in it? Is the fuel in it 9-12 months old?

The more info you supply the better.

Rick

wrench · June 11, 2009, 07:18:08 PM

Hell,, that is quick!!! I will be at the bus Saturday morning. It's cranking, but it may be slow, will get extra battery. Yep fuel is in it for 9-12 months, I am planning to use a 5 gal jug with fresh fuel & prime with electric pump to start.
I sure will put that link in a safety deposit box!!
thank every body, will report how it went.
wrench

NJT 5573 · June 11, 2009, 07:39:48 PM

I doubt that year old fuel would be a problem. Go through the sel and cel engine light senario and see what you have. Check to be sure that the DDEC box on top of the engine has all the plugs in tight. Check the fuse. Make sure the oil and water are full then if it won't run you can try priming it. If you are going to prime it you may as well replace the filters and eleminate that issue at the same time. The first code or 2 you read are the important ones because it just keeps the rest as inactive. If there is no water in the primary, probably no reason to change the secondary just to get it running.

wrench · June 13, 2009, 08:35:16 AM

OK, for all who pitched in, THANKSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
IT'S RUNNING & GONE.
I add 10 gall of water & it stay running!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It will need a going over the cooling.
thanks again
wrench

wrench · June 13, 2009, 01:02:08 PM

OUPSSSSSSSSSSS
STOCK on the side of I-75 near before exit 123, got to 190degree, is there a way to disable tem sensor & which one is it to start the engine at fast idle to cool it? where is the toggle switch to read the code?
thanks

RTS/Daytona · June 13, 2009, 03:25:24 PM

Call me -- ...386..672.0571 (daytona florida)

I have alll the DDEC Manuals and a lot of DDEC experience

If you have a electronic pushbutton tranny - look for the diagnostic switch in front of the shifter console

Look for a 12 pin (2 rows of 6 ) - GM style DIAGNOSTIC pin connector under the console - under or in front of shifter -

use a paper clip to short pin M to pin A (the sockets are label - usually on the side) - this will start Diagnostic mode - count light flashes on the CHECK ENGINE LITE

Pete RTS/daytona

wrench · June 14, 2009, 06:36:38 AM

Thanks you very much Peter,
I crank it for few turn to circulate the coolant & let it sit for 15 minutes & repeat.
When the temp reach 170-175 it fire up, I brought it to high idle & temp went down to 160 in no time.
She already call a tow so I brace the rear cover with a piece of pipe & tie down strap to have more air draft in case the tow don't show & can try to make it to Port Charlotte.
The cooling system need to be check/service, how rugged are the head toward over heating?

Now the tech side:
Yep it's the push button shifter, I found the DLC, (may be my GM techI cable & laptop would read the code!
On the dash there is 2 toggle switch, 1=(emergency over ride), will this allow to run the engine to pull out of a traffic lane?
2= (engine test???)

??
Thankssssssssssssssssssss
wrench

RTS/Daytona · June 14, 2009, 08:38:01 AM

My guess is your GM TechI reads the older (pre-96??) OBD-I diagnostic that are associated with the 12 pin GM diagnostic Plug.

I believe the DDDL (Detroit Diesel Data Link) is a different standard and protocol and just used the connector for convience (there was no standard connectOR for OBD1)

But try it - and let us know ??

Pete RTS/Daytona

P.S. The prolinks have have Firmware options for OBD1 and DDDL and Others

NJT 5573 · June 14, 2009, 10:58:12 AM

It may not be the temp sensor that you need to disable to move a short distance. On my Eagle it's the water level sensor on the expansion tank that will shut me down way before the over temp sensor will.

If you unhook it then its out of the loop with the DDEC, so you are on your own. When I lost a water pump I had to unhook mine to get to a safe place. All I did was let it idle for a couple minutes to cool some and then shut it down. Luckly no repercussions.

Another possibility if you don't have air in the coolant would be to put 10 gallons + in the back, open a window and run a trickle hose down to the radiator to keep the level up.

Generally you will find the temp sensor real close to the thermostat housing.