oil additives

[christopher]

is anyone using oil additives due to the fuel being a ow sulfer conten?
thanks
chris
mci5c

[steve5B]

    Chris,


     Check out www.winnerschoicecorpartion.com for your oil additive needs!


    Steve 5B....

[luvrbus]

Chris, no need for additives in the 2 stroke the low sulphur fuel has been their choice for years.Detroit has never recommended additives for the oil in their engines save your money and buy fuel      Good luck

[RTS/Daytona]

see--> http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177728

I choose to use the --> Schaeffer Diesel Treat 2000

But the Walmart Super Tech Outboard 2-cycle TC-W3 engine oil was my other choice 


AND NO  -  LOVRBUS - I don't need a lecture from you about my reply - thank you

Pete

[luvrbus]

Pete, I don't care one way or the other what you use in your engine.    good luck

[Hartley]

Slick 50 High Mileage and Lucas Oil additive.
I saved an engine or three over the years using the stuff
and won't change from doing it. No dry starts this way.

BioPhor to keep the tank & lines clear of goo...

Just my O-pinion...

[TexasBorderDude]

....

AND NO  -  LOVRBUS - I don't need a lecture from you about my reply - thank you

Pete

How about a spelling lesson?  Why start the "hate and discontent"?

dg

[Dreamscape]

Forum Civility Rules Reminder! See Below!

http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=9905.0

[Sean]

We seem to go around and around on this topic every few months.

I will repeat for everyone's benefit that Detroit Diesel advises against any third-party additives in either the fuel or lube oil, except in certain very specific circumstances (such as fuel gelling at low temperatures).

Don't take my word for it -- go to the DD web site and download publication 7SE270, "Lubricating Oil, Fuel, and Filters."

Oil and fuel additive companies have a vested interest in convincing you otherwise.  They are behind many scientific-sounding "studies" that portend doom and gloom unless you use extra additives.

I note separately here that the study results at the top of the thread Pete linked, while fairly objective, were undertaken with fuel you and I can not buy.  This study was intended to test the effectiveness of various additives on untreated ULSD fuel.  When you buy ULSD for motor vehicle use (as opposed to heating oil use), it has already been treated at the distributor with an additive package intended to replace the lubricity lost when aromatic hydrocarbons were lost as a byproduct of the sulfur removal process.

Almost none of this, BTW, is even meaningful in the ultra-sloppy two strokes most of us run.  If you have a common-rail four-stroke, you'd best be paying much closer attention to what's in your fuel.

(With apologies to Pete, for the lecture.  But hey, you didn't tell me not to!  )

-Sean
http://ourodyssey.blogspot.com

[RTS/Daytona]

Sean

No offense taken (you usually have a way of disagreeing without LECTURING)   - In fact I'm glad you weighed in on the Study

It WAS CONFUSING when I first read it - but the additive was reasonably priced. -

I NOW believe it would be harmless at worst and slightly beneficial at best


I also believe that the study was slanted to adding BIO-Diesel to the ULSD
(of which I am not a big fan off - I believe the two separate when left to sit)

Pete RTS/Daytona

[Sean]

Thanks, Pete.

BTW, I've been reminded in the past that the DD web site is exceedingly hard to navigate when you are looking for information.  The publication I mentioned above (among others) can be downloaded on this page:
http://www.detroitdiesel.com/support/on-highway/manuals/lubricants_fuels_coolants/

Note that a revised edition was issued in March of 2007.  This is the latest recommendation, and, as always, supersedes any and all previous recommendations, including those in your owners, operators, or maintenance manuals.

-Sean
http://ourodyssey.blogspot.com

[JohnEd]

Pete,

Bio is a required additive, small percentage, to Dino D all over Europe.  I think the justification is that it cleans the engine and reduces particulate, replaces the lub lost in the refining process associated with ULSD AND the amt used directly replaces the money shipped to the Arabs.  Its functionality as a lub additive has been so verified as to be a given......at least in my mind and until some authority turns my head.  But separate?    That is a new one to me.  I can't discuss that on any technical basis and I don't even have the references to that data but I know something (small amt) about the product from the standpoint of "user" and "producer".  I am as well not contradicting you...be sure.  The Bio guys are fond of putting their product in a glass jar and watching it for a couple weeks.  Sometimes semisolid form in poorly processed Bio D but most often it is clear and golden.  I read of a test they did for comparison and they centrifuged both Dino and Bio and the stuff that separated out of the Dino was scary but the Bio produced nothing at all.  I am a proponent of Bio because everything I have read proves that "properly" converted Veg oil is superior to Dino except in terms of gel temp.  I am not poking at you with this request for info on separation, honestly.  But, if you have data, great, and if it just your hunch and personal belief, well that's OK with me, also.

Thank you and be well,

John

[Hartley]

The "BOOK" or tech literature from a "Manufacturer" which states specific guidelines
is their way of saying don't Add "ANYTHING".. This is because anyone adding stuff to extend the life of a product will reduce the "manufacturers" rebuild and parts sales ability. This they don't want, Especially if there is a warranty involved.

They make most of their money on parts.. Take any of that need away and they will find any way they can to convince you that you are wrong.

I have seen the stuff like Slick 50 and Lucas products work in many instances which if they had not been added there would have been many problems that required thousands of dollars to repair.

So far the only product which I personally will never use again is the slick 50 automatic transmission additive, Nor any from the multitudes of manufacturers. Those band-aids simply won't work in a worn transmission and may do more damage.

It's kind of like Chrysler and their pissy and trouble prone automatics. They "WILL" fail as they "ALL" do eventually and the root cause turned out to be the transmission fluid and standards they went by. Adding stuff just makes them fail faster...

Now.. Enter the engineers.. They figured out what was happening only after 20+ years. Change the specs on the fluid and miracles happened. Transmissions that failed suddenly started working again almost better than when new....Check that out..

[RTS/Daytona]

Hi

JohnEd - You are right - I mixed up Bio-Diesel and waste Veggie oil

My tests have shown that waste Veggie Oil and Regular Diesel - tend to seperate over time and faster at higher temps

Pete RTS/Daytona

[TomC]

Sean is correct in that NO additives, except for cold weather fuel management is needed.  And, considering that the fuel injectors on a Detroit maybe puts out around 8,000psi tip pressure, this is nothing compared to the new DD13 and DD15 with enhanced common rail fuel injection and tip pressures more like 32,000psi.  With the higher 17.5 to one compression of the DD15, now you know why the Series 60 is being discontinued in trucks.  Good Luck, TomC