Need help on Conversions 101...
 

Need help on Conversions 101...

Started by Highway Yacht, January 22, 2009, 01:44:04 PM

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Highway Yacht

There have been a few post on "Conversion Steps" but I'm not sure if I have come up with the best plan. This will be my first bus conversion and have tried to think things through before I start building the conversion. I need a little advice to see if the steps I have is the best plan to follow. These are the steps that I have come up with. There will be no roof raise. Any tips or advice would be appreciated.

1. First step is to remove the bus seats and interior panels and do a thorough cleaning of the shell.
2. Next step would be to have a design and to mark the floorplan on the floor to make sure the plan will work.
3. Next step would be to attache furring strips to floor, walls, and ceiling, and then build the framework for closets, bedframe, 
    bathrooms,etc.
4. Next step install the insulation in between the firring strips.
5. Next step to apply plywood over the newly insulated floor and mark actual floorplan with tape.
6  Next step to install electrical wires and plumbing, water tanks, water heater, shower pan, etc.
7. Next step attach the plywood walls to the firring strips.
8. Next step Install Cabinets, countertop, sink.
9. Next step to apply finished wall and ceiling coverings with veneers, carpet, etc
10. Install roof top a/c's
11. Install all light fixtures
12. Test all electrical and plumbing to make sure everything works as designed.
13. Finish up with installing furniture, moldings, accessories, etc.

To all you Bus Converter Vetrans, does this plan seem close to being right? I do know there will be lots of odds and ends stuff that will have to be worked in at different stages.
1979 MC-9  8V71-Turbo / HT740             * www.MciBusTalk.com *
Locust, North Carolina                           A Site Dedicated To MCI's

HB of CJ

About the same thing, but totally different too.  Weights and measures, cubic availability, engineering, roadability, plumbing runs, gravity, wiring runs, livability, compromises, cost overruns, expectations, doability, durability, decor theme, The ladys input; on and on.  Very fun.  HB of CJ

zubzub

test plumbing and electric before closing walls.

mikelutestanski

Hello:
      A few notes:   Planning ; Planning ; Planning         Planning planning Planning..
   You cannot do enough.     
             Remember    It is easier to push an eraser across a paper to move a wall  than it is to actually move a wall especially one or two inches.
          Allow for expansion and changes down the line..    Electrical wiring   provide wire chases or empty conduits for bus wiring (12 or 24 volt) , low level coach wiring (12V)  and high level coach wiring (120V).
      You will find a system for (you name it) that you just have to have and a space up front and wires need to go to the rear compartment or somewhere else...   and guess what   no room  or no space or ???  So allow some space  in the form or wireways or access channels for future expansion. 
     Fred Hobes expansions are worthy of note..
       In the plumbing department  short, sweet and compact is the byword.  remember if all the plumbing is located in one area freeze protection is easier.   
    Hope this helps
    Regards and Happy bussin   mike
Mike Lutestanski   Dunnellon Florida
  1972 MCI 7
  L10 Cummins  B400R  4.625R

Dreamscape

What type of insulation are you considering?

I did not use blown in expandable type, wish that was the way I went. Just wasn't in my budget back then either.

If you go that route use conduit for all your wall and ceiling runs, insulate, then pull the wire later.

Do your best to plan your electrical runs and leave enough room in the conduit for spares, figure 10% more. You will be adding as you go along, always thinking of something else to add. ;)

Have Fun, It's a great experience!

Paul
______________________________________________________

Our coach was originally owned by the Dixie Echoes.

usbusin

In addition to making scaled drawings and using masking tape on the floors and walls, I found it very helpful to make an actual "mock-up" from cardboard.  Use boxes or make some boxes to the actual size of all your cabinets, furniture, appliances, etc.  See how narrow you can make the aisles; how big the bathroom needs to be, room in the bedroom, etc. 

Remember you are using the "cube" of your bus, not just the floor area.  Once you make a cardboard mock-up you will be surprised how little room is left!!

Anyhow, it worked for me.  And remember, you are never done!  Have fun.

Gary D

Gary D

USBUSIN was our 1960 PD4104 for 16 years (150,000 miles)
USTRUCKIN was our 2001 Freightliner Truck Conversion for 19 years (135,000 miles)
We are busless and truckless after 35 years of traveling

Tom Y

You may want to do some wiring before the insulation. Roof air, recp. in the walls, ceiling fans. Have FUN.  Tom Y
Tom Yaegle

Highway Yacht

Quote from: mikelutestanski on January 22, 2009, 02:35:43 PM
     Fred Hobes expansions are worthy of note..
       In the plumbing department  short, sweet and compact is the byword.  remember if all the plumbing is located in one area freeze protection is easier.   
    Hope this helps
    Regards and Happy bussin   mike

Thanks for the advice. I hadn't even thought of freeze protection. I did however think of the need to run future wires but wasn't sure how I would handle that.
1979 MC-9  8V71-Turbo / HT740             * www.MciBusTalk.com *
Locust, North Carolina                           A Site Dedicated To MCI's

Highway Yacht

Quote from: Dreamscape on January 22, 2009, 02:51:36 PM
What type of insulation are you considering?

I did not use blown in expandable type, wish that was the way I went. Just wasn't in my budget back then either.

If you go that route use conduit for all your wall and ceiling runs, insulate, then pull the wire later.

Do your best to plan your electrical runs and leave enough room in the conduit for spares, figure 10% more. You will be adding as you go along, always thinking of something else to add. ;)

Have Fun, It's a great experience!

Paul

Right now I am just planning on using the 4'x8' sheets of foam board insulation but that idea could change after I get a couple prices on the spray in foam. I feel like the Spray Foam will be more than I want to pay but I am going to check anyways on local prices here. How is the best way to pull the wire through the conduit after the conduit is in the wall and ceiling?
1979 MC-9  8V71-Turbo / HT740             * www.MciBusTalk.com *
Locust, North Carolina                           A Site Dedicated To MCI's

Highway Yacht

Quote from: usbusin on January 22, 2009, 04:05:26 PM
In addition to making scaled drawings and using masking tape on the floors and walls, I found it very helpful to make an actual "mock-up" from cardboard.  Use boxes or make some boxes to the actual size of all your cabinets, furniture, appliances, etc.  See how narrow you can make the aisles; how big the bathroom needs to be, room in the bedroom, etc. 

Remember you are using the "cube" of your bus, not just the floor area.  Once you make a cardboard mock-up you will be surprised how little room is left!!

Anyhow, it worked for me.  And remember, you are never done!  Have fun.

Gary D



That is an excellent idea and one I will surely use. I have access to 8ft x 8ft sheets of cardboard and I could easily do mock up walls. Thanks.
1979 MC-9  8V71-Turbo / HT740             * www.MciBusTalk.com *
Locust, North Carolina                           A Site Dedicated To MCI's

Highway Yacht

Quote from: Tom Y on January 22, 2009, 06:14:43 PM
You may want to do some wiring before the insulation. Roof air, recp. in the walls, ceiling fans. Have FUN.  Tom Y

Thank You... So it is best to run some of the electrical wires between the skin of the bus and insulation instead of running it between the insulation and finished interior wall? I figured I would have easier access to it if I ran it on top of the insulation.
1979 MC-9  8V71-Turbo / HT740             * www.MciBusTalk.com *
Locust, North Carolina                           A Site Dedicated To MCI's

Highway Yacht

Quote from: HB of CJ on January 22, 2009, 01:58:52 PM
About the same thing, but totally different too.  Weights and measures, cubic availability, engineering, roadability, plumbing runs, gravity, wiring runs, livability, compromises, cost overruns, expectations, doability, durability, decor theme, The ladys input; on and on.  Very fun.  HB of CJ

I hear ya HB...but no building permits or electrical inspections from the county or approval from the zoning board???? I hope not...  I am seeing there is more to converting than what meets the eye. I just had a house built a couple years ago and the "Permit and all the Inspections" is what drove me crazy. They failed my FIRST electrical inspection because I didn't have an address sign with 3 inch tall numbers at the road. Tell me, what does my address sign have to do with electricity??? I didn't have the address sign when they did my septic inspection, footing inspection, foundation inspection, framing inspection, mechanical inspection, nor plumbing inspection. Go figure.
1979 MC-9  8V71-Turbo / HT740             * www.MciBusTalk.com *
Locust, North Carolina                           A Site Dedicated To MCI's

Dreamscape

Quote from: jlink on January 22, 2009, 09:58:27 PM
Quote from: Dreamscape on January 22, 2009, 02:51:36 PM
What type of insulation are you considering?

I did not use blown in expandable type, wish that was the way I went. Just wasn't in my budget back then either.

If you go that route use conduit for all your wall and ceiling runs, insulate, then pull the wire later.

Do your best to plan your electrical runs and leave enough room in the conduit for spares, figure 10% more. You will be adding as you go along, always thinking of something else to add. ;)

Have Fun, It's a great experience!

Paul

Right now I am just planning on using the 4'x8' sheets of foam board insulation but that idea could change after I get a couple prices on the spray in foam. I feel like the Spray Foam will be more than I want to pay but I am going to check anyways on local prices here. How is the best way to pull the wire through the conduit after the conduit is in the wall and ceiling?

Go to a home improvement store and buy a fish tape, sold in the electrical department. Makes it easy to pull wire looms through most anything. If it's a large bundle and long runs, add some lubricant to make the wires slide easier.
______________________________________________________

Our coach was originally owned by the Dixie Echoes.

JackConrad

Quote from: jlink on January 22, 2009, 10:06:54 PM
Thank You... So it is best to run some of the electrical wires between the skin of the bus and insulation instead of running it between the insulation and finished interior wall? I figured I would have easier access to it if I ran it on top of the insulation.

We ran all our wiring and plumbing in chases and inside cabinets so that is will always be accessible for repair aqnd/or changes.  Jack
Growing Older Is Mandatory, Growing Up Is Optional
Arcadia, Florida, When we are home
http://s682.photobucket.com/albums/vv186/OBS-JC/

busshawg

We did the same as Jack , we can always add or remove , upgrade wiring as we go. We did use spay in expandable foam. I found we could plan plan and plan but versatility is also a factor as you go. If you close to as green as I was going into it you will make a few changes through trial and error. Don't let it become a job, because at some point it probably will. Take a break and then when the enthusiam comes back giver. Good Luck
Have Fun!!
Grant