how do i figure out what kind of vanner equalizer to get?

ilyafish · January 10, 2009, 08:08:22 PM

this is only for my start batteries, and i will be using 4 group 31's. but im not sure how many amps for a vanner equalizer for that. also, will a vanner still work for 4 batteries as opposed to 2?

buswarrior · January 10, 2009, 08:23:45 PM

You choose the size of equalizer based on the anticipated 12 volt load you will take out of your 24 volt battery set.

The equalizer will not care how many batteries are involved in the set.

Good used take outs from a transit will typically be a pair of 60 amps, or a single 100 amp.

What are you going to be running off the 12 volt?

happy coaching!
buswarrior

ilyafish · January 10, 2009, 08:32:50 PM

nothing....i always just thought that i should have one weather or not i have something thats 12v....i guess theres no reason to have one if i dont have a 12v load

buswarrior · January 10, 2009, 08:42:38 PM

automotive style radio/stereo, CB radio, cell phone charger, another set of lighting from another power source?

A little 12 volt is desirable on any coach.

That's where an inexpensive take out from a transit makes it an easy expense to a busnut.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

ilyafish · January 10, 2009, 08:45:14 PM

good call! wasnt thinking

probably a cb radio, as well as a gps. cell phone i will just use wall plugs

MattC · January 11, 2009, 07:45:51 AM

I just tapped a 24v power lead in my electrical box and installed a unit from http://www.okoffroad.com/stuff-voltage-reducer.htm by the driver window console. I use it for running some lighting a GPS and Walkman in my beater.

I just looked at the wattage of the devices I wanted to run then fudged by 30%. So far I haven't let the smoke out of anything. Not scientific, but field expedient.

GL

Jriddle · January 11, 2009, 09:21:05 AM

I have planned most of my DC loads to be 12 volt. The cost to buy 12 volt STUFF is a lot less and is available more readily. My thoughts

John

belfert · January 11, 2009, 10:17:04 AM

My bus is 24 volt, but all exterior lights are 12 volt plus I think the DDEC and WTEC might be 12 volt. As such, I have a Vanner as standard equipment. The silly engineers choose to use 24 volt bulbs in the dash and the luggage bays when all other bulbs are 12 volt. The dsah bulbs have the same part number as a 12 volt bulb. I used a 12 volt bulb in the dash and nearly burned up the dash until I figured out the circuit was 24 volt. (The 12 volt bulb drew more current and nearly burned up the dimmer rheostat.)

I couldn't find a switched 12 volt circuit for my GPS speedometer and backup camera so I decided to install a Samlex 24 to 12 volt converter under the dash. I think it provides something like 15 amps at 12 volts. It cost me under $20 brand new on Ebay. Certainly less expensive than a Vanner equalizer if you only need 12 volts for a few small things like a radio.

I would not plan on running any house items off the chassis electrical system. If there is any electrical item that you use when not driving that item should run off the house electrical system. If your bus is 24 volts it often makes sense to install a 24 volt house system so you can use the big 24 volt alternator to charge your house batteries if you wish. Also, a 24 volt inverter uses far smaller cables to the battery bank. You will need to install a Vanner Equalizer on the house battery bank to provide 12 volts.

As others have mentioned, there is no advantage to having a Vanner Equalizer on your bus chassis battery bank if your bus is strictly 24 volts. All it does is cost you hundreds of dollars for no reason.

scanzel · January 13, 2009, 03:40:51 AM

Most newer buses have 12v head lights so a Vanner is probably needed. I bought a 100 amp new style Vanner on ebay for $159 last year. Plan to use it on my 24 v battery bank.

NJT 5573 · January 13, 2009, 12:30:32 PM

I'm not familiar with a Suburban furnace that is available in 24 V and they have a considerable load.