Blocking up bus to get underneath, ( no pit )

[Chariotdriver]

 
   We are hoping to get the bus up off the ground so that we can work on it from underneath and was not wanting to die in the process (ask me again later)
It looks like we are needing some jacks (rental store ) and also some type of blocking and wanted to know what you suggest and where to block up at?
Thanks,
Phil

[Jerry32]

I went out to some construction sites and picked up some 4 x 12 beam end that had been trimmed off. I just drove the bus onto the blocks and then chcked the wheels. The bus co. here uses the same method and works for them too.  Jerry

[JackConrad]

Before you rent jacks, shop around for a 20 ton hydraulic bottle jack. You may be able to purchase one for little more than the rental fee (and besides you WILL need it more than once). The proper jacking and blocking points should be in your service manual. You do have a service manual?   Jack

[Bob Gil]

Years ago I had a freind that was needing to get under his bus and we took some rail road cross ties and cut them at an angle that he could drive up.  Cut one and you hve two ramps.  I am sure he chocked the wheels when he got it up on them.

That will get you up some, if you need to go more you can prop one end of them up with a good solid 4x4, or two.

Scrap lumber is not too hard to find around here.

[luvrbus]

I block my Eagle up with 15 ton jack stands under the rear axle ,under the A frames on the front and the arms on the boogies buy you a air jack lot less pumping and cost about 100 bucks.Me I cheat I lift mine with the HWH levers mounted on the bus

[Chariotdriver]

  I am going through the manuals and did run across the jack points.
Thanks for the hints on driving it up on the blocks.
Phil

[jjrbus]

I am uncomfortable working under the bus.  By the time I  feel I have it blocked enough, I have no room to work.     A visit to a construction work site and asking permission to pick up some scraps will give you some blocking. 4x4, 6x6, 8x8, 2x12's are all handy sizes to have.
On investigation a 20 ton air over hydraulic will lift 40,000 lbs, my entire bus is 29,600 lbs. If you want to lift the entire bus at one time the 20 ton might be handy.  I am lifting one corner at a time so a 12 ton is more than enough. A 20 ton wieghts apox 36 lbs, a 12 ton about 25 lbs. Much eaiser to to push around under bus. People will say get the 20 ton to be safer, dont get under bus suported  by jack is 100% safe.
I use an 12 ton air over hydraulic jack.  I have lent it to three people they all say it will be thier next purchase. I know that Soujourner bought one after useing mine!
Some of the jacks have a heavy return sping, My next one will definately have that feature  HTH Jim

     http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94487

[Lin]

Ebay has lots of 20 ton air jacks for about $80. ($40 for jack +$40 for shipping).  Oddly enough the few 12 tons cost more.

[Lin]

Luvrbus mentioned having HWH levelers.  I believe that he has an Eagle which does not have airbag suspension.  Two questions: How would you mount that sort of equipment on an MCI, and would anyone consider such a leveling system safe without blocks anyway?

[HighTechRedneck]

Luvrbus mentioned having HWH levelers.  I believe that he has an Eagle which does not have airbag suspension.  Two questions: How would you mount that sort of equipment on an MCI, and would anyone consider such a leveling system safe without blocks anyway?

Using leveling jacks without blocks to go under it would be very dangerous.  Luvrbus wasn't advocating that.  He stated that he uses the leveling jacks to lift it.  Then he uses jack stands to secure it to work under it.

I block my Eagle up with 15 ton jack stands ...

[Chariotdriver]

  The reason that we need to get the bus up off the ground a little is so that we can get under there and do a little welding and some other clean up work.
 
   There are some square tubing that was put in after the fact to beef up some rotted out smaller tubing.
One of the newer pieces has cracked apart and we want to go in and get out the bad and put in some new.
Also noticed that a piece running somewhat diagonal across the bottom of one of the tanks is cracked. It looks like an original piece so we plan on getting it up on blocks, making sure that it is level or at least on a flat plane so that when we put in some of the new pieces it will possibly travel straight down the road.
  We also plan on removing all the tires and cleaning with a steam pressure washer the entire underside and doing as much maintenance as we can handle.
Any pointers on this or maybe a Eagle/ 6v92  HT 740 expert we can talk to as there is lots to learn.
Thanks,
Phil

[Lin]

I did not mean to imply that he was suggesting using them without blocks, just wanted opinions on that and mounting potential.  My sincerest apologies, especially to any armed busnuts.

[HighTechRedneck]

My sincerest apologies, especially to any armed busnuts.

Well allright pilgrim.  I reckon you'll be all right then, Lord willing and the creeks don't rise.   Just stay out from under buses that aren't blocked up, ramped up or over a pit.

[jjrbus]

Ebay has lots of 20 ton air jacks for about $80. ($40 for jack +$40 for shipping).  Oddly enough the few 12 tons cost more.

For the same $$$$ I would still buy the 12 ton, much eaiser to work with. But I am a lazy, broken down old guy. They also have a 12 ton "shortie" now. I would probobly buy that. I put my jack on a 2x12 with an  eye hook, so I can use the awning rod to pull it out fom under the bus. I do that because I am a smart, lazy broken down old guy.    YMMV Jim

[junkman42]

Just wanted to mention that I bought a 20ton shorty jack from ebay for under 50 dollars that is made in japan and looks far better in quality than the chinese imports do.  No question that it is well made and the paint looks like powder coat.  My 2 cents,John