Heat for the Driver.

[Chaz]

I know this probably isn't a high priority right now       , but since I'm going thru my whole cooling system, I got thinking about my feet being so cold in the winter driving. 

  My initial thoughts were to insulate around that area with AT LEAST the foil bubble wrap and carpet or maybe even the foam board if it's not too much of a hassle.
  And for heating that area, I was wondering if anyone was aware of a "Y" that a person could put into one of the defroster tubes, to shoot down towards my feet, and be able to adjust the amount of heat that comes out. It seems like that could be an easy install.
  The other idea was to put in a radiant hydronic loop on the floor. That's a little more work, but doable since the coolant hose is right there for the defroster.

  Have you guys done anything like this??

  Was keepin it kool, now heatin it up,
     Chaz

[tekebird]

I would say if your defroster core is operating correctly it should keep your feet toast warm just from radiant heat...there is only a small sheet of steel seperating the driver footwell from the core.

my 04 defroster could heat the front 3rd of the bus in sub freezing temps......to the point it would have to be cycled on and off. to add to that the flimsy air tube that goes to the corner defroster on the drv side also radiates a fair ammount of heat with the fan off just from normal flow of the air off the core.

1. was your defroster core valve open allowing flow of coolant

2. If the core is blocked which it likely is based on the condition of your radiator I would suspect that is the cold feet issue

3.wye's are available from alot of different sources.  You could put one in one of the two hose going to the driver side defrost vents.....and a small hose off the wye....then a eye ball vent.

Question: Did the prior converter tear out the ducts for the Coach heat?

IIRC without going to look at one in person should be a outlet at the lft rear of the drv seat for coach heat.
I know for certain the 04 and the MC-8 has this.

Your heating system should easily be able to roast you out of your coach

Oh are your rheostats set correctly.  you have to change the setting between hot and cold season ( if you still have coach air)

[muddog16]

Hey Chaz!  In my bus they used 2" flexible tube and all of the fittings were pvc drain water lines they used them for "Y's" and "T's"  and then used hose clamps to hold them to gether it worked well for 20 years.  With all of the work you're doing have to priced a replace coil.......I purchased one that was fairly inexpensive from Ron the Bus Nut.......I figured 20 years of junk in the radiator and everything else why would that heating coil be any different?........

[buswarrior]

Hello Chaz.

What do you mean by "winter driving"?

Respectfully submitted, in my "winter driving" conditions, the metal of the front of the coach will defeat any radiant heating attempts by quite a factor, as it will be one giant heatsink radiating the cold through. Also, any air leaks behind the dash will significantly challenge a good stock heater.

I need fan forced air directed into the pedal area for my "winter driving" conditions, the stock MC8 system does the job for me.

If your "winter driving" only nudges the freezing point periodically, you may get away with lesser techniques.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[roadrunnertex]

Chaz,
On my Buffalo I used the bubble type wrap/foil insulation in the front under the windshield area.
I had the defroster heater core reworked/cleaned and installed new bearings in the defroster motors.
The defroster box on my bus has a small flapper door that you can open that will let hot air blow out on your feet.
It's keeps the front 1/3 of the bus nice and warm with no problem on cold days.
One thing I have done is block off the fresh air vent in front and insulated the inside of the entrance door.
jlv 

[Chaz]

Thanx guys! Appreciate the insight.

RRTex,
  Thanx man!!! I found that flapper door! P-E-R-F-E-C-T!!!! That is exactly the ticket!! Teke is yet again correct that GM engineers were pretty smart cookies............... for their time.   
  I don't think mine had been opened in MANY years!!
  I think the foil and some carpet will not only look nice but very functional also. I'd like to use the foam board, but I don't think it will work as nice. But I may give it a whirl.
  I have the gasket fixed on the fresh air vent so it doesn't leak (at least very little) fresh air in. I think it might be nice to use on occassion.
  The motors seems fine. And I flushed the heater core out also.

Buswarrior,
  I think the radient would work just fine! Why wouldn't it? If done the way it's supposed to be - insulation below it with reflective material also below it next to the tubes, masonary seperating the tubes, and a tile floor - I think it would be just fine!! I was even thinking about 1" stainless steel flat tank with baffles in it to make it flow around and have insulation below that. That would probably be the best ticket. Plus, my legs wouldn't be dangling from the high seat so bad. 
  The insulation and carpet would help with the heat sink factor of which you speak.
  My winter driving, I HOPE, will be done in Arizona, Florida and most places between them.    But I will have to occassionally submit her to the winters of Indiana.
  But since Tex turned me on the the "flapper" (sounds bad, huh  ) It's all a mute issue.

  Muddog,
  That would have probably worked, and I was going to look into it, but The "flapper" is the ticket. (that sounds better  )
 
   Teke,
   You might check to see if you have one also. I know you said 

there is only a small sheet of steel seperating the driver footwell from the core.

So you may also have one. It's pretty easy to miss. (not that I really looked for it) 
Oh, and the coach air has been completely cleaned out. Not even ducts are left. Just holes.

Thanx again guys!
      Chaz


 

[tekebird]

Hi Chaz, I am sure we do have them on our 08's, I just don't drive them often enough to remember.  Both the 08's are my Dad's