Rear remote start panel?

[Bob Gil]

I am trying to set up every thing for making the remote start panel in the engine compartment of this cleaned up, burn't bus.

I have an old money box that you would take to make change out of when selling stuff.  About a foot square and about 3 inches deep.  I was thinking I could put most of the conections inside this and they would not be exposed to as much of the weather as they might be other wise.  I would hate to have some thing fall on the conections and short some ting out and cause another fire.  The way it was done before it had a panel swinging in front of the main electrical conectons, but I did not care for the way it was done. 

do you think the box would be an inprovment?  or should I just hang it all out in the open and not worry about it?

Any comments?

[H3Jim]

While going through all the  trouble to do it, I'd spend a little more time to do a clean installation you can proudly show off.  The metal box sounds like it might work.  Depending on your budget, one of the external electrical boxes for 110 volts might work, it already has the knockouts for installing the wire clamps, along with some internal ground points.  It would look better too.

[Blacksheep]

Bob on my H model Prevost, the rear switches are in a small box completely enclosed. When I got it, I found everything inside to be just short of ruined from condensation. I have found out that Prevost has since done away with a completely enclosed box for this reason or not I'm not sure! If I were to do mine again, I would mount it on an open plate of sort or do as I did my old one and put air holes in the box! I ordered a new box and that's when I found out they don't use them any longer. Plus a new old stock box was like 250 bucks. Surely not worth it so I improvised by using my old one!

BS

[Bob Gil]

I am not too familiar with the electrical boxes. Just trying to use what I have.

Not really trying to lock the box up just cover the hot connections up.  Though i would cut the bottom side off of the box so I would not have wires going Thur hole in it and or rubbing on the metal.  If I cut that side off they should not short as easily.

And as my budget. Well there is none. What I spend on the bus comes out of my $2.00 a day lunch money. looks like I am going to lose a little wait from what I have spent on the bus already.  Moma seams to think it would have been cheaper to get a motel on vacation, I but I keep telling her I don't like them, and they are not always where I want to stop.  And they can't sleep while I drive when going to the motels!

[Blacksheep]

Bob if your going to be using a metal box and your afraid of the wires passing thru any holes, you can use rubber grommets found relatively cheap at any auto parts store!

BS

[Hi yo silver]

Bob,
Another consideration; If you're going to have a problem with electrical wiring, it's usually going to occur at either a terminal point or at a place where it chaffs against a bulkhead or pass-through.  Therefore, you should use a panel box that's relatively air tight.  Use holes only for passing wires into the box, secured with "strain-relief connectors or insulated by grommets to prevent damage to the insulation.  You don't need openings for ventilation.  The idea is to contain a potential fire inside the box; that way, when there is an overheated splice or junction point, the damage is contained and not allowed to spread.  Just my 2 cents worth.
Dennis   

[Blacksheep]

Dennis why did Prevost do away with the box? They told me the newer coaches just have a mounting plate for the switch and start button.When I explained my deteriation scenario, they explained the reason to me.
BS

[Tom Y]

Bob, I used a fiberglass box with a hindged cover. Its big enough for terminal strips, relays and such. I put the start and remotes thru the cover.  Tom Y

[johns4104]

As often as we use the remote start, is this panel and extra connections worth redoing.

john
4104

[muddog16]

Ace, I'm rewiring my bus completely using Dave Graley's simplified system, instead of having two complete systems front and rear, I'm just installing controls for start, stop, fast idle and selector for front and rear without the second set of relays!  I'm keeping it simple I believe in the K.I.S.S theory, more chance of problems with redundant systems than they are worth, especially putting them in all of that heat in the engine compartment.  For a new control box I made it out of some check plating, when I get It installed I will have about 20 bucks in it! I used stainless piano hinge and rubber grommets for wiring pass throughs! I used military cannon plugs to feed solenoids. I even split my batterys into two systems, I built a battery box in the engine compartment and they are close to the starter, the controls are in the engine compartment also in a box on the front wall! Everything is compact and not spread from one end of the bus to the other.

[Flight102C3]

Why do we need the rear box?  I was thinking about doing away with mine.  One less system to go bad! Please help me out.

[Dallas]

Why do we need the rear box?  I was thinking about doing away with mine.  One less system to go bad! Please help me out.

Mostly because when you are working on an electrical or fuel problem, or just repriming the engine after a filter change, it's a heck of a lot easier to turn the engine over from the rear than it is to walk 38'+ up to the front, operate starter, walk 38'+ to the back to check for whatever you are working on, etc.

All it takes is one time of the filters not picking up the fuel as you reprime on the side of the road in the rain to figure out why you really want to have the rear start option.

But, Then, Do it Your Way! We all have different priorities.

Dallas

[lostagain]

I like rear controls. I usually start the bus from the rear first thing in the morning so I can see first hand what's going on with belts, oil pressure, any leaks or anything that could go wrong. I would catch it right away and shut down right there and then. Peace of mind too. I don't always remember to switch back to "front" so after the first stop that morning, it won't start, then I remember why and have to walk back to the rear to flick the switch, and my wife or the kids roll their eyes...

Rear controls are good when you are adjusting the governor for instance: you can start and shut down without walking back and forth to the front. Make sure the emergency shut down works from the back too.

JC

[Hi yo silver]

B.S.
I don't know why Prevost did away with the box.  I guess it's really more important in two instances; for high voltage connections and termination points, i.e. 120 volt A.C., and where even 12 or 24 volt D.C. connections are likely to be exposed to road spray and corrosion.  Just wandering around with these ideas.  What do you think?
Dennis

[Blacksheep]

Dennis, not exactly sure. I'm just going by what the parts guy told me when I inquired about my deteriated switch!
BS