Window skinning and Installing in MC9

[bowmaga]

I'm thinking ahead and can't find anyone that has shown pictures of how the removed the stock MC9 windows, framed up the hole with material, and skinned it was aluminum or metal.  Anyone have anything like that...I know some of you have had to do it.  I'm thinking about doing this, but after i remove the window, what should a do with the hole.  Sheet it with plywood or OSB shut, skin it with metal.  I can get the metal cut that will go perfectly into spot, by removing the exterior trim pieces between each window and bottom, sliding it up under the gutter, sealing it off and reinstalling the trim pieces.  What i am questioning on my thoughts is what to fill the original window hole in with and what to mount that filler to.  I have thoughts...but probably not good ones!!  What did you guys do?

[Tenor]

Greg,
Do I recall right that you and your friends plan to use this basically for tailgaiting, and other stuff?  If so, it may be easier and more cost effective to leave the original windows alone, and just put up your interior over them - assuming that your windows aren't broken.  Just ideas!  My bus had the skin already done, so I'm not qualified to detail the job.  Good luck!

Glenn

[Nick Badame Refrig/ACC]

Hi Greg,

Here are some pics of my frame work and skinning.

Hope this helps
Nick-

[Nick Badame Refrig/ACC]

And more....

[travelingfools]

Didn't want to hijack the thread, but on a related issue...

http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=8162.0

[bowmaga]

This will be a tailgater bus, but also a 3-5 day trip bus to races and country concert.  We probably won't have AC for awhile so we need some open windows with screens.  And, Yes, we also have one back window...gone, and the one in front of that is broken.  So, we have found a good deal buying 7 new windows through Fleetwood Travel Travel Trailers.  48" x 24" dark tinted, insulated sliders for around $50 a window.  Compared to the other prices I got, I feel like I'm stealing these windows.  So as the good deals rolled, I ordered a new toilet, 22' awning, tank monitor system, my valterra plumbing valves, and a norcold refridge.  That whole list was less than 1k.  Yee Haw.  Finally something went my way. 

Anyway, Nick, I like what you have done.  Did your metal stretch from exterior trim piece to trim piece?  How did you fasten the new metal to the bus.  It looks as if you welded a new intermediate metal bar across the middle of the old window?  Did you fasten the new metal to that also?  What gauge of metal did you use?  What type of metal did you use? 

[grantgoold]

If you are looking to save money and time I suggest replacing some of the windows with inserts from pennisula glass? Several folks on this board have done so. You get to leave the window in place and use the original window frame just replace it with a slider and screen set up. This may get you your open window capability without all the additional work.

While I have more than enough AC I plan on one day replacing the front two side windows on each side of the bus with sliders and screens. I think that will cost me about $2,000.00 so I wait.

Good luck!

Grant

[bowmaga]

although that would be easier to do.....the cost of the penn windows throws it way out of my league and budget.  A cost estimate of $420 per window from them told me to look for alternate ways of making my bus happy.  I just got my hands on 10' wide x 3' tall, 28 gauge steel, prepped for paint, for $18 per sheet.  At 10' wide, that will cover two windows and i should be able to seal everything under the trim pieces.  Just don't know what exactly to put under the windows to fill the existing window hole.  I assume 7/16 - 3/4" plywood or osb.  And whether or not  to pop rivet or self tap screw to the bus. little details.

[TomC]

Another way- my windows have a reversed lip- meaning the window frame has the lip on the inside of the bus tapering to the outside.  This was done since it is a transit and all the windows could swing open with the emergency catch (this was nice having all the windows open during conversion).  My solution to blanking out the windows was simply to cut two 3/4" pieces of plywood-screwing the first sheet to the lip and gluing and screwing the second to the first piece.  I had aluminum sheet cut to the correct size and also glued and riveted the aluminum sheet over.  Simple, requiring no welding-but maintaining the strength of the window frame.  Has worked well for the 14 years since I did the windows.  Good Luck, TomC

[bowmaga]

Tom, my bus also has top hinge windows that open in case of an emergency.  I believe I can do the same.  Do you have any pictures of your process?  The only other thing i think that might be different is that my windows are slightly set back in from the outside of the bus, but maybe yours was to and the 3/4" brought it out flush with the exterior of the bus?  This allowing the new metal to span from center to center of window pillars?  T