Seeking Advice on Adhesives???

[Highway Yacht]

I need some help with selecting an adhesive for bonding 6 windows to the sides of my bus. The windows are frameless Lexan windows that I am installing in the place of 6 slider windows so I can paint them to the exterior color of the bus. I will have the rubber hinge along the top and will install a couple screws along the bottom but wanted a bonding agent to really secure the windows and help with keeping water out. I'm located in the Charlotte NC area if anyone knows of a place around here that sells a good bonding adhesive. I don't think I want to be running down the road with windows bonded with Liquid Nails from Lowes or Home Depot..
Thanks

I forgot to mention that the frameless lexan windows weigh approx. 50-60 pounds a piece.

Combined two posts. Richard

[RTS/Daytona]

Is your coach an RTS - Then why not just use S/S screws to go thru the bottom trim and screw it to the body with pretty v head S/S screws and counter sunk holes in the trim

that's what I did

If you must us an adhesive - then use Sikaflex 221 or similar - it will NEVER come off - but don't get any on your hands - It will have to wear off - ask me how I know

Pete RTS/Daytona

[jackhartjr]

Well Pete...how do you know?
Jack

[FloridaCliff]

I used the Sika on mine.

The windows I bought came with trim rings for a thinner application.

I clamped them in after applying the Sika, with the intention of adding at least four rivets to hold them in place.

15,000 miles later and they haven't even budged.

By the way, a heat gun and a little prying will release the Sika.

Best of luck

Cliff

[FloridaCliff]

but don't get any on your hands - It will have to wear off - ask me how I know
Pete RTS/Daytona

Pete knows of which he speaks!

I do too!   

Cliff

[Highway Yacht]

Is your coach an RTS - Then why not just use S/S screws to go thru the bottom trim and screw it to the body with pretty v head S/S screws and counter sunk holes in the trim

that's what I did

If you must us an adhesive - then use Sikaflex 221 or similar - it will NEVER come off - but don't get any on your hands - It will have to wear off - ask me how I know

Pete RTS/Daytona

Yes, it is an RTS. and my non-slider windows do have a 1" metal trim that only runs across the bottom.  I had thought about your idea and still may go that route but, what I had hoped to do was remove the 1" trim from of the windows, hang the windows with new rubber hinges, glue the windows to the side of the bus and to eachother with a good bonding adhesive that will HOLD the windows in place.  Then fiberglass and bondo the groves where the windows butt up againt eachother to give me a 15' long smooth body panel once the fiberglass and bondo are sanded down.  I am concerned tho about the fiberglass joints cracking if the bus flexes. Btw, I really like what you have done with your bus.

[RTS/Daytona]

#1 If you remove the lower trim the lower edge will not be at the same level as the sliders next to them

#2 here' what I did - using a 2 x 4 and a big hammer I placed the wood on the edge of the frames lexan window and gave it a good smack to slide it in it's upper track to as close to the slider next to it - when the clearance was nice and tight - it moved to the opposite end Lexan window and did the same

now the gap will be wider between the middle lexan and the 2 outer lexan windows - I went to Lowes got a 2" x 1/8" aluminum strip and used that to cover the gap - I screwed it to the S/S window frame - looks great

or you could just leave the Lexans  where they are in there upper trackes and use Alum 2 x 1/8 trim on ALL the edges  -that also looks very nice - in fact it blends with the framed slider

I also purchased "CLOSED CELL FOAM" and put enought pieces behind each of the Lexan window ends that they formed a good seal against my RTS.

just the way I did it - to each his own

[Dreamscape]

Use a fiberglass filler, not usual bondo type. It works great and is easy to work with. Go to a paint supplier in your area, they should have it. I am away from my bus so don't remember the brand. Color is light green, mix with a catalyst.

I've used it on my caps, really like it.

Paul

[buddydawg]

Use a fiberglass filler, not usual bondo type. It works great and is easy to work with. Go to a paint supplier in your area, they should have it. I am away from my bus so don't remember the brand. Color is light green, mix with a catalyst.

Are you talking about Evercoat Metal Glaze?  It is a polyester resin and light green in color.  Good stuff, just remember not to mix it too hot!

[Dreamscape]

Are you talking about Evercoat Metal Glaze?  It is a polyester resin and light green in color.  Good stuff, just remember not to mix it too hot!
[/quote]

Not sure, could be. And you're right, don't mix it too hot, a little dab'll do ya. Also mix it in small quantities, gives you more time to spread without being in a hurry before it sets up. I'll be home on Saturday, so I'll check the brand for sure. I was very inpressed because it had fiberglass strands and is workable.

[Highway Yacht]

I do plan on using a fiberglass filler and then applying a very thin skim coat of bondo over that for a smoother finish. Where do you guys buy the Sikaflex adhesive at?

[Kristinsgrandpa]

Sikaflex is available from:
Austin Hardware
McMasters Carr
International Bus Parts

   It has a short shelf life so it isn't available everywhere, so ask for fresh tubes when ordering if it's going to sit on the shelf for a while. I never order extra for that reason.

   The last I bought from Austin Hardware had an expiration date that was only 2 weeks away so I used it the next day.

Ed.

[muddog16]

Austin Hardware is hard to beat!  I've been using Sika today, on nice warm days I lay the tubes out in the Sun and its easier to use!  I'm impressed with it, the I'll let you know in about a year how I really feel about it!...........   If you clik on the site at the bottom I posted some photo's today showing how I used it accordingly to Sika's recommendations!