Radiator fan for 4104.

[Flyboy]

Hi,

The Mexico saga continues.  Just got home last night to BC, having a hard time finding a fan to replace my bent one.  I've tried US Coach, Dean's Coach and local places.  Stumped so far.

I have a 671 with a mechanical fan (non clutch, camshaft driven).  6 blades, 6 bolt holes.  Center hole that goes on shaft is roughly 93MM diameter, bolt hole spacing is 120MM (across).  If you are looking at my bus from the rear, the rad is on the driver's side, then fan pulling air through the rad from outside, then engine.  The top of the fan rotates away from you as you are looking at it from this position, so I believe it to be a right turner?? 

Anyone got one or know where to get one??

I going back in January to retrieve the old girl.

Thanks much.

Aron.

[Dallas]

Aron,

Glad to hear you made it home, but sorry to hear you didn't make it with the bus.

If you need it, the part number for the fan blade (not the fan and hub) is 2270293 and is the same on the 4102, 4103 and 4104.

The fan hub is part number 2137142 and is common to the 4010, 4101, 4102, 4103, 4104, 4509, 5103, and 5104.

I hope this helps, even a little bit.

I will PM you with a phone number of a fellow in South Carolina that has some 410X pieces laying around. Maybe you can talk him into  selling you a fan and hub.

Dallas

[tekebird]

i might have one

[MCI Courier]

Aron,

This place near Edmonton is wrecking a 4104.

http://www.badgertrucks.com/TruckSales.aspx

Pete

[gmbusguy1]

I do have a slighty used fan available for you.

call me at 231 846 0880

Chris

[Flyboy]

My fan is on it's way...

Thanks to Chris at gmbusguy.com I will have a new fan and hub for my '04 shortly.  Great guy to deal with, good reference for those of us driving the venerable GMs!!

I also appreciate everyone elses help, it has been great.  One more piece of the puzzle complete.

Cheers.

Aron.

[gus]

Aron,

Those blades can be replaced individually.

I think that if you closely read the Maint Manual on how to remove each blade vs the whole hub you will decide to replace only those that are bent!!

[Flyboy]

Hi Gus,

The problem with my fan is that all the blades got bent.  The old blades were pretty beat up from years of picking up gravel off the road as well.

Figured at this point it would be easier to get it done and get it home.  I'm getting a new hub for my parts inventory as the existing one is in good shape (still good to have a spare).

One question I do have is how to bleed the cooling system on the bus to avoid airlocks.  The system drained completely after the initial incident and I want to ensure that I do it right when I put everything back together.  I have the old heating system with the tap down to the right of my drivers seat on the front panel.  It was shut off (and still is) throughout the whole deal.

Aron.

P.S.  Does anyone have a link to get the old M manual?

[rgwilliams]

http://www.pd4104.com/

Rob W

[gus]

Aron,

I forgot to tell you the real reason you don't want to replace the hub, you have to remove the radiator to do it!!   And you have to remove a lock ring inside the hub and use a gear puller to get it off the end of the crankshaft.

That is enough to discourage me.

Change the blades and keep the new hub as a spare.

The main engine coolant bleed is on top of the thermostat housing on top of the engine. There is a small drain cock there, open it while filling the tank above the radiator until coolant runs out, then close it.

Open the valves to the interior heating system, then run the engine a few minutes at fast idle until it is warm enough to open the thermostat and circulate through the radiator.

Unless you completely drained the heating lines you probably won't need to bleed at the defroster.

Shut off the engine, remove the tank cap (After releasing the pressure) and fill it back to the fill cock next to the tank cap. If your fill cock is frozen like mine (Don't try to force it on or remove it, it is only soldered into the tank and will break a hole in the tank) just look down into the tank and make a guess. If you overfill it will dump out the overflow.

Your defrost control valve is probably frozen too, hopefully in the open position. It probably won't move, never heard of one that would. If it is closed just plumb around it and use the rear left firewall valves to control the hot water. Or, what I plan to do, install a good ball valve to replace the original one attached to the shaft.

[4104bigred]

You can replace the fan assembly without removing the hub, however the radiator does need to be removed to get the fan off BUT that is not a big project

Fwiw

T.T.F.N

Chris

[gus]

Chris,

What is the difference between the fan assembly and the fan, I'm confused? I've never done it, I just read the procedure in the MM.

Maybe to a youngster like you removing the radiator isn't a big job, but to an old guy like me it is!

I'm in the middle of replacing the thermostat and all the coolant hoses in the engine compartment, that has been a big enough job for me so far!

[tekebird]

radiator removal is not difficult just a pain in the @$#...it's freakin heavy

[gus]

Doug,

Heavy is one of the first things I noticed about that radiator!!

I also found out than sliding on 2 1/4" hoses is not easy either, even when coated with globs of Vaseline.

I also had to drill out the bottom radiator fitting plug and install a drain - really lots of fun!

So far every drain valve I tried has been corroded solid. I'm adding Teflon sealant to every new one but not really convinced it will solve the problem. I'm using all brass valves too.

I also found that the original bypass thermostat has been bypassed by a hose directly from the thermostat housing to the water pump suction side so the bypass thermostat is  out of the system. It looks as if the housing was changed to allow this hose bypass to be attached in that a boss for the hose fitting was added to the housing.