PICTURES!!! Of my battery compartment and water tanks.

[Chaz]

Hey Guys,
  Thought I'd post some pix of a little of the work I'm doing/did in my bays. The battery bay has two trays of 4 batteries each that slide on rollers (orange).

Inverter mounted on center partition. Generator is on the other side. Wood box on right houses batteries.


Another shot from further back. 110 panel is on the left. By the way, I can fit into that space between the batteries and the 110 panel.


Another shot to show how to pull out the batteries. I just have to remember to disconnect the proper green welding cable connectors. (Right Jerry!!??     )



Inside the box. The fuse is mounted to the roof of the box so I can see and reach it easily.


Curb side of the water and waste tank. The tube going down is the vent. Ther is one on both sides of the tank.


Drivers side of the tanks. You can see the angle of the tube where the "kids slide down to the pool".  Hope it's steep enough for them!!  The Propane will be moved or eliminated at some point. The holes in the plywood is for seeing the water level.


Hope this helps someone!!! At least it might fill a "Picture Fetish" or two.  I think it worked pretty good.
 
   Chaz

[Nick Badame Refrig/ACC]

Hi Chaz,

Nice layout!  Looks great!  Oh, and I like the Kaiser Welding LP tank...

One thing catches my eye, It doesn't look like you vented your battery area.??

That is something you should think about, more so because of the close proxsimity of your curcuit panel and inverter.

Good work!
Nick-

[Barn Owl]

it might fill a "Picture Fetish" or two

......OOH YES!......

Thanks for the fix.

[Jerry Liebler]

Chaz,
    Looks good.  It must have been real fun wiring the inverter, I know how small that connection compartment is!  One issue I see is the exposed 'romex' to the outlet over the tanks and the unfinished & unmounted status of that outlet.  I'd say that any 120 volt wiring in the bays should be in conduit but it can certainly be the flexible PVC type.  I was expecting a close up of the lead welding experiment.
Regards
Jerry 4107 1120

[Chaz]

Nick,
  I have holes in the floor and I had access to a louver press so I put louvers in the outside door of the bay. The door seals the box (except for the louvers to the outside) and the box is sealed from the compartment. I think that should do the trick.

Barn Owl,
  Glad to help you with your addiction!!! I am also afflicted with the same addiction! 

Jerry,
  Yeah, I did some of it with a mirror.    It's tight, but I got it done. Good thing I'm still small enough to get in there.
  That outlet is still in the working stage. I just wanted to get pix while I had the chance.
  That lead welding experiment went......... well........... ok.  The big soldering iron I have worked pretty good. PLENTY of heat!! As a matter of fact, it worked better after the tip crusted over a bit. I had to add a little lead from a lead bar I have for body work. I also added a couple stainless steel safety wire rounds around it for a little extra holding power. Sorry no pix. (I ain't THAT proud of it!!  lol)
   Hope your birthday was good!

      Chaz

p.s. By the way, this is a before shot:




Drivers side.



Pass. side. The silver tank was propane. The TV was cut into the wall for the kids to watch in their own basement.


It was a REAL mess!!

[Gary LaBombard]

Chaz,
Not to be critical in any way but I see also a situation that makes me cringe a little.  I see two (1/2" or 9/16 wrenches sitting partially hanging off the shelf over the batteries you have extended outward.  Man, if these guys drop on top of those positive post, I just shutter and hope you do not mind me mentioning. 

The welding lead connections are a great idea, Will remember that one for when and if I ever get to that point. 

Again sorry for mentioning the wrenches, but these batteries can kill you in the right circumstance I am sure.
Gary

[JohnEd]

Chaz,

That install looks GRATE.  Really SUPPER.  I am sure you are getting a lot of CONDOMENTS.

Look, I no this wil fli in thu face of commun cents, but bare with kme.  On those welding connectors, apply a coating of "silicone grease".  That is the stuff they use on sparkplug boots as a release agent and that is a high voltage insulator.  It will actually improve the electrical "quality" of the connections and will keep the metal from surface corroding.  No joke here, an insulating grease.  Go figure!

This Will help,

John

[Chaz]

Wow, thanx John.
  I did not know that!! But that is a good point. I have never used that on my welding leads, but for the most part, they are inside and better protected. AND not in an acidic enviroment.
  Would that be a specific type of silicone grease? Something that conducts well? (I think there is something called "Electrolytic" or something like that.) I know Jerry told me not to put anything on the posts of the batteries other than maybe some vaselive on the outside of the connection.
  Thanx for the tip!

    Chaz

Again sorry for mentioning the wrenches, but these batteries can kill you in the right circumstance I am sure.

So can drinking too much water or breathing straight oxygen.    I'll be careful there too.   
     Thanx Gary.

[JohnEd]

Chaz,

This flies in the face of common sense and reason. Silicone grease is a SUPER good INSULATOR.  PERIOD!  It is used as a sparkplug boot release prep.......wipe your fingers around the plug after you install it and coat it with a film of silicone OR squirt some of the stuff up into the boot.  2 years later the plug boot slips of with barely a twist and a pull.  Great stuff and it won't short out the plug cause it is an INSULATOR to those gazillion volts that hang around the ignition system.

No one really forsaw this but low voltage terminals were inadvertently "greased" and when tested they all showed really low resistance.  Or so the story goes about the discovery.  In low voltage stuff a slight resistance is much more important, or felt, than in high voltage.  You can prove this to yourself by putting together a string of those crimp on connection pin connectors.  Say ten unions.  Measure the resistance with a digital ohm meter that reads to the .001 scale.  Measure them dry and then measure them again after smearing a little grease on each and reinserting/connecting it.  Subtract the two readings and they express the greased number as a percent of the other to get the percent improvement.  In micro wave it all but eliminates the phase shift across a union but that is of no concern here.

There is a down side of sorts......using that grease there is no longer any such thing as a poor or loose joint.  Once the mechanical pressure is relieved the thing is  back to being an insulator.  Loose low voltage joints create heat and screw you up bigtime finding them so its better if they open up and fail completely.  Quick find!

Try this: Watts = I(current) times V (voltage)     Watts= 100 X 1 ohm......100 Watts.    That is a lot of heat on a little connector and it will get the thing hot enough to oxidize and add more ohms over a shorter period of time.  I also rub the stuff on the base of bulbs and the little grounding tit.  I guess I am anal that way.  Oh, and by the way, Toyota puts silicone grease in all the light sockets and connectors on my Lexus.  You know, those really spendy connectors that have the multiple rubber rings that make them waterproof to 100 meters.  Like the dash clock.  Really though, they do use it.

Bats corrode because of the acid that comes up around the terminal from inside.  The older the bat...the more the leak.  Like my bladder.  There is a red spray stuff for bat terminals that I have used in the past.  (haven't found anything for my bladder) It is the only thing that stopped the corrosion. and kept it off.  I also put a felt pad soaked in diff oil around the terminal and that works almost as well as the spray.  If you break the terminal the stuff won't be on the surfaces that make contact because they will have been closed  up.....unless you spay the stuff BEFORE you assemble the terminal connections    Geesh.  Everybody runs a brush cleaner , at least, through the terminal and connector to get the best at assembly and I am sure you are no exception, and that removes any coating/spray that might be there from the last time.  Did you get yet that I don't agree with Jerry on this one?  Jerry is cool though.

I want you to know that I lament your decision to swear off posting in OT posts.  You make sense and I miss you already.

Admiringly,

John

[Chaz]

Thanx John.
  I truely appreciate your input. Hmmmmm...... Is there any kind of "release agent" (now refered to as grease) that IS conductive that could be used - carefully - so there would be a minimum amount of corrosion or sticking?
  I am familiar with the red spray but haven't seen it in years. I may have to look some up.
  Sorry for swearing off the "alternative threads". I just can't deal with it. Maybe the ordinary man can, but I'm getting farther away from that all the time. (over abundance of stress - considered Acute by my Dr. - and the meds are just barely keeping up. Sorry, more personal thatn I wanted to get, but I wanted you to know) And I am heading for school to teach the 8th graders for yet another 2 weeks. 

  Thanx again,
     Chaz

[captain ron]

  Sorry for swearing off the "alternative threads". I just can't deal with it. Maybe the ordinary man can, but I'm getting farther away from that all the time. (over abundance of stress - considered Acute by my Dr. - and the meds are just barely keeping up. Sorry, more personal thatn I wanted to get, but I wanted you to know) And I am heading for school to teach the 8th graders for yet another 2 weeks. 

  Thanx again,
     Chaz

Did I miss something?

[Chaz]

Probably not, but which part.

  Chaz

[JackConrad]

Thanx John.
  I truly appreciate your input. Hmmmmm...... Is there any kind of "release agent" (now refereed to as grease) that IS conductive that could be used - carefully - so there would be a minimum amount of corrosion or sticking?
 

A friend gave me a tube of "Di-electric Grease".  I have not used any of it yet, but I think he uses it on satellite coax connections.  Might be worth looking into.  Jack

[Nick Badame Refrig/ACC]

Thanx John.
  I truly appreciate your input. Hmmmmm...... Is there any kind of "release agent" (now refereed to as grease) that IS conductive that could be used - carefully - so there would be a minimum amount of corrosion or sticking?
 

A friend gave me a tube of "Di-electric Grease".  I have not used any of it yet, but I think he uses it on satellite coax connections.  Might be worth looking into.  Jack

Hi Jack,
We use Di-electric Grease on aluminum connections as well as battery terminals too.
I think it works in a wide virety of applications to prevent corrosion.

Nick-

[jjrbus]

If the silver tank is propane, I do not see any venting for it?