House Battery Disconnect Switch?

[rv_safetyman]

I have read and believe that we should have a disconnect on the house battery bank.  Question is what are you folks using.  My fuse is 400 amps, so the disconnect will have to be pretty substantial.  I have seen some good candidates, but most are over $100.

One candidate is:

http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servlet/catalog?parentid=4873&childid=169051&page=1&tabset=1&pageitem=1&new=y

I have thought about the quick connect as shown at:

http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servlet/catalog?parentid=1043&childid=104644&page=1&tabset=1

Tell me what you guys are using.

How about the start battery - do we need a disconnect for all loads (not just the smaller switch that many of us have which does not address the full load capability?

Jim

[gus]

Jim,

I use a "green knob" switch on each battery (start and house) this way I avoid the possibility of one battery in series or parallel shorting out any other battery.

I realize that this may not be practical for you guys with large battery banks, but, since I only have four batteries total (two each) it works very well for me. I have no relays or central switches to worry about and I know I can shut off any problem that ever arises.

My starter stuck once before I got the switches and it didn't take me long to get them installed after that!! Looking for a wrench while the starter is grinding away is not fun.

The best part is that these only cost about $6-7 each at JCW or your local farm store. WM may carry them but I've only seen them there a couple of times.

[grantgoold]

I am using (cannot remember the brand) a very large disconnect switch between the house and inverter. Look at the instructions for a freedom xantrex inverter 458 and the name of the switch (350 amp) is listed along with the part number. I got mine off ebay for $75.00.

The same switch is heavily used in the yatch/boat business.

If I can get back over to the bus, I will get more details.

Grant

[rv_safetyman]

Gus and Grant, thanks for the quick reply. 

After I posted the original post, I got to thinking about welding cable connections.  How about:

http://www.dragosupply.com/drago/servlet/CyberVendor/category/G7599843/catalog/group.jsp/

Jim

[Tony LEE]

Be very careful of any cheap switches - the ones with the red removable handle in particular -- because they rely on a spring to push the contacts apart and there is no forced disconnect action.
Trouble is if the contacts weld together even slightly you can turn the handle to the off position all you like but the contacts stay closed. Considering they are marketed as a "disconnect" switch used for safety purposes, I can't see how they can ethically sell them.

[captain ron]

Why can't you use the same fuseable disconnect like I used for my 50 amp dryer hook up? You know the gray metal box. Or for that matter non-fuseable?

[Nick Badame Refrig/ACC]

Hi Jim,

Your disconnect should be able to handle the amprage just as your fuse does.

Nick-

what I use... also available at wytec wire

[JackConrad]

We use a Cole-Hersee 4 position switch (OFF, BATT 1, BATT 2, or BOTH) This is the type of switch that was used on our Fire Engines and Rescues.  This switch allows me to use battery bank 1, 2, or both.  Jack

[gumpy]

I use the one shown by Nick. From Waytekwire.com. It's over $100, but worth the money.

They have some smaller disconnects. Not sure on the rating of those.

Another possible option is to call Sam Caylor in Rantaul KS and see what he'd charge for a used one out of an MCI.

craig

[jjrbus]

If you can find somebody scrapping out an MCI, they have a very heavy duty battery switch.

[Ncbob]

FWIW...there's one on the Eplace...starting bid $50.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MCI-BUS-Battery-Power-Shut-Off-New-NEVER-USED_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6728QQihZ017QQitemZ270181129280QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Bob

[DavidInWilmNC]

Isn't there a concern with disconnecting when there's a battery equalizer present?  I seem to remember something about this, but can't recall it at the moment.

David

[Jerry Liebler]

David,
     Most equalisers have you connect the negative terminal last.  So it should be safe to put the disconnect and fuse in the negative line.
Jim,
    I ended up building my own disconnect.  It is a block of 3/8" copper that a knob- screw pulls across a gap in my buss bars.  It shows a drop of about 1 millivolt with the inverter under full load (about 220 amps).  Regards
Jerry 4107 1120

[bobofthenorth]

I've got the one that Nick posted the pic of but I don't recall paying anywhere near that price for it.  It came from Dick Wright and I got a massive fuse at the same time.  It replaced one of those cheap $hit plastic Perko jobs that the original converter had installed and which I didn't trust.  I have the positive cable fused right at the batteries.  I should fuse the negative as well but haven't got around to it.

[roger dolan]

   I used the solenoid    from the blower fans in the heater compartment of my 4106. I have that for my start batterys. I need to find one for the house bats. It has very heavy contacts(good enouh to start the engine) so should be good enough for house bats. Don't leave it on when not using the bus as there is a small current draw that will kill your bats.   Roger