Orientation of wood sub flooring, which is best if any?

[Paladin]

Ok, so I've noticed that many people have their own way of putting down new wood, vertical front to back cut in strips ala oem MCI style or laying it width wise. I'm wondering why everyone chose the orientation of the flooring. Do you feel it's stronger in any particular direction? Easier? Just plain prettier somehow??
I was thinking of going width wise and then a second layer crossing that the opposite direction.

I'm not ready yet to put down the new floor but with the weather getting ready to change I want to have it all prepped, cut as needed and ready to put in as soon as I can. Before I cut anything I want to make sure I have it figured right.

Thanks,

-Dave
 

[jjrbus]

 Most all the floor traffic is right down the middle of the bus. Put the sheet length wise and fill in the sides. The majority of the seams end up under the seats, couch and storage areas. Make sure you use proper spaceing so you do not end up with squeaks.
Now as for two lays of flooring, I cannot understand why anyone would do it that way? Not saying its wrong, just do not understand it. A better investment of space would be 3/4" strips 16" OC with the foil faced insulation sheets between. Covered wit 1/2" plywood. If you are uncomfortable with 1/2" plywood sheeting, use sheets with a higher number of plys.

[NewbeeMC9]

I like JJrBus suggestion. 

Consider your layout first.,  mock up etc.

if floating floor, consider expansion, cabinets etc.,  if glue down, less cutting to go side to side.  herringbone down center would be fancy.

make hatches where you can and want to to get underneath,  use extra space between. duct, cooling/heating, consider laundry chute etc.

if floating floor, consider expansion, cabinets etc.


run wires front to back using conduit now,  think what you need, then double it for extras.

make sure all running lights etc work.

HTH


Modify: ::)oops, read it wood flooring instead of sub flooring.  some still apply,  8 foot sheets, 8 ft wide,  sounds good to me.  add a layer of insulation, if for nothing but sound.

[JackConrad]

We installed our wood flooring at a 45 degree angle (this was at the suggestion of Ace).  We are very happy with this method.  Running it lengthwise, any mistake or imperfection in a joint will show.  If you run it crosswise, it looks like many small boards. Running it at ther 45 degree angle seemed to be best.  Just our way, YMMV  Jack

[captain ron]

The wood sub floor unless your planning on getting back in the tunnel in the center, I would lay cross ways. 1 cut on every sheet instead of ripping 2 times per sheet if you lay one down the center longways and fill in the edges. less scrap.
use 3/4 for the floor and don't double it. make sure you cut your access holes in where you need them and plan around them when doing your interior. I would suggest insulation under your floor after the bays mainly to keep engine noise and heat out. Just fit it between framing and you should be able to put first sheet of plywood down and then fasten precut pieces under that piece before laying down your next sheet of plywood.

[Kristinsgrandpa]

Since my interior is exactly 96" I put mine cross ways.

I only had to trim one sheet, in the front.

Ed

[cody]

My subfloor is 3/4 inch marine grade plywood, I used felt stripping between it and the metal bracing under it, I screwed it down and then ran 3/4 inch furring strips on 16 inch centers with 3/4 inch foil faced foam between the furring strips, I then used a layer of 1/2 inch plywood for the floor.  Probably over kill but made for a very stable, quiet floor, the felt strips will kill off any potential squeaks that might develope over time, I'd rather use the overkill method than to wish I had in 5 years.  Just my approach to the problem lol mine is all ran side to side.  After talking to many people that have lived with problem floors for many years, it seemed the more common complaints were lack of soundproofing and insulation, also the problems of constant temperature changes and moisture possibilites, thats why I used the method that I did.

[Paladin]

Cody,
Where do you find the felt strips? A material store?? What weight are they?

-Dave

[cody]

The felt strips were a heavy weight weatherstripping, about 3/16 thick and 1 inch wide, it killed any future squeaks, the biggest thing I heard from the old veterans was that you can build it rock solid but after a couple of years of use, the little touches that you add now will pay off.  I used spray headliner adhesive to attach them to the metal supports, also used the felt strips on the walls between the plywood and the metal uprights, it's cheap insurance against that type of road noise, on partitions most people use a rolled welt to seal any gap between the partition and the walls, not only serves that purpose but also removes squeaks that are caused by slight movement between wood against wood, or wood against metal.

[cody]

These little touches are very minor cost add-ons that pay big dividands down the road, so to speak lol, as far as a quieter more enjoyable ride.