Jack stands? SAFETY, NERVES and I am a chicken!!!!!
 

Jack stands? SAFETY, NERVES and I am a chicken!!!!!

Started by grantgoold, October 13, 2007, 05:57:32 PM

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grantgoold

Ok. I have to work on the air system right around the drive wheels. This requires me to get under the bus and of course release all the air out of the system. I want to do the following and want some feedback if this will be good enough (SAFETY FIRST). I want to jack the rear end up at the jack point in front of the drive tires. Then I plan on using rail road ties (blocks) to use as cribbing. I then plan on using 12 ton jack stands as secondary back up. Finally, I plan on having two 20 ton bottle jacks right up against the body rail as a third fall back.

Right now I sure wish I had one of those fancy pits!


You thoughts on rather I have sought this sucker through enough. I sure do not want to get under this beast until I am pretty sure I will not have any problems.

thanks for the input!

Grant
Sacramento
Grant Goold
1984 MCI 9
Way in Over My Head!
Citrus Heights, California


Nusa

Remember to look at the ground surface as well. You may need hardwood planks to spread the load and ensure that jacks and jack-stands won't sink into the dirt or break through asphalt.

grantgoold

No drive wheels do not have to come off. I plan on using 1/2 thick steel plate on anything we use to jack up with.


Grant
Grant Goold
1984 MCI 9
Way in Over My Head!
Citrus Heights, California

Sammy

Better to be a chicken than a chicken cutlet.
We have 15k jackstands and use RR ties to support the body sometimes.
I use 12 ton bottle jacks too.It really depends on the task I'm doing.
What exactly are you planning to do under there?
Good luck.  8)

gumpy

If you don't have to pull the wheels, why not just drive it up on some of your rail road tires. Ramp up using 2x4's followed by 4x4's, followed by 6x6s or railroad tires. One on each side would do, but two on each side would be better. If you get it centered on the ties, you'll have plenty of room to crawl under and do your work, even with the suspension fully deflated.

Craig Shepard
Located in Minnesquito

http://bus.gumpydog.com - "Some Assembly Required"

grantgoold

Right now, the only thing I can tell is that I have a big air leak somewhere in the middle right in front of the drive tires. I know there is a couple of valves there so I will need to first see which one is leaking and then take it out and rebuild or replace. I will get the drive tires up on the railroad ties and then crib the frame. Do you think the 12 ton jacks would be enough to support the weight of the back end? Of course along with the cribbing.

Thanks

Say Gumpy, did you ever see the shots of my hitch? I used many of your ideas when I made mine.

Thanks for all your photos they really helped.

Grant
Grant Goold
1984 MCI 9
Way in Over My Head!
Citrus Heights, California

Tony LEE

If it is on a level solid concrete surface and all rear wheels are sitting centrally on wide solid timber blocks and the (front) wheels are chocked, and the airbags are down or plywood packers inserted between the bumper stops, I can't see any point in jacking or blocking anything up because it merely introduces potential instability and restricts access.


You don't need to get the wheels up more than 6" off the ground to be able to get adequate access to the suspension and brake components.

quantum500

Honestly you're probably over doing it.  Keep it simple so you can check things quickly to make sure everything is solid.  Solid wood ramps are about the most fool proof way to stay safe, cheaply.  More variables induces more stress.

gumpy

Quote from: grantgoold on October 13, 2007, 09:14:54 PM
Say Gumpy, did you ever see the shots of my hitch? I used many of your ideas when I made mine.

Thanks for all your photos they really helped.

Was there a post on that?  I don't remember. Refresh my memory where the photos are.

Glad my photos were helpful.  I'd love to see it. I'm going to have to rebuild mine eventually to accomodate a
rear bumper, and I'd like to make it so it can hold more tongue weight. Devin had one put on this summer that was very well done, and
I'll probably use some of those ideas. Would like to see details on yours also.
Craig Shepard
Located in Minnesquito

http://bus.gumpydog.com - "Some Assembly Required"

Tom Y

Grant, I cut 3x3x1/4 square tube and place under the rubber stops to hold the body up. Just to keep it from coming down.  Tom Y
Tom Yaegle

niles500

"Right now, the only thing I can tell is that I have a big air leak somewhere in the middle right in front of the drive tires. I know there is a couple of valves there"

Isn't that where your Air Dryer is ?
(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")  

- Niles

grantgoold

Niles, my bad, I say drive tires vs. tag axle tires in the back of the bus. Can you think of a better name?

Grant
Grant Goold
1984 MCI 9
Way in Over My Head!
Citrus Heights, California

David Sweet

 ;)
A set of ramps is an exellent investment in safety as well as ease of getting your bus off the ground.  There are drawings in the arcives on the GMC-busnuts board.  We built a pair and they work very well.  If you cant find them in the archives email me off board and I'll send you a copy along witha couple of pics.
Blessings,
David            davidbsweet at netzro.com
PD4104-2977
Winton, CA

Dreamscape

David,

Why don't you post the pictures or drawings here? I am sure there are a lot of us that would like to see them. I know I would.  ;)

Paul