Captain Rons Overheating Problem

[captain ron]

I started overheating about Wall, Sd. I've been loosing antifreeze but don't know where. I have a small not really noticable leak in a hose but could be getting worse when hot. My temp climbed to 200. that was a first. I made this trip last year without any problems.

[Dallas]

Ron,
I moved your post to a thread of it's own so it would get more exposure.

I hope that's OK? If not, I can put it back where it was.

Dallas

Can you describe in more detail your overheating?

After all, If you were at Wall, SD. water is Free! 

[captain ron]

Losing antifreeze but not sure where, I believe the hose that leaks around clamp may be expanding and losing more. First noticed the antifreeze problem at Bryce's last year. Not overheating too bad all I have to do is slow down and it stayed cooler

[prevost82]

Have you pressure washed your rad's lately?
Ron

[Dallas]

Just thinking outloud here...

Do you have silicone hoses with the nitrile interior? Napa sells those under it's brandname, but it's actually a Gates hose. The reason I ask, the nitrile will never seal to the metal, no matter how long it's there or how tight you tighten the clamps. The best you can do is to use "Constant Torque" clamps that have a spring in the screw that keeps torque against the clamp.

The other thing that comes to mind is the radiator cap. Is it holding the pressure it's suppose to?

Again, just some thoughts.

Dallas

[luvrbus]

Dallas,i was told on of the boards that these hoses would not seep if they were installed right i bought the torque clamps and even the torque wrench made for them and i still get seepage i am glad some one has a answer because i was beginning to think it was all in my mind.thanks

[Don4107]

Hope not, but if you don't see the leak it could be going through the engine.  Does the oil look OK?  How much fluid are you using?

[Dallas]

Dallas,i was told on of the boards that these hoses would not seep if they were installed right i bought the torque clamps and even the torque wrench made for them and i still get seepage i am glad some one has a answer because i was beginning to think it was all in my mind.thanks

Something I found that may or may not help to seal the hoses to the tube is to paint the metal. I did this in an attempt to stop a bunch of cold water leaks in an old IH cabover I had. It worked on about 80% of the connections. The other 20% would always have a drop or two on the ground overnight.

The paint I used was the standard cummins "Turkey Turd Tan" because at the time the truck had an NTC 400BCIV.  Good engine, Ug - Uh - Lee color.

Dallas

[captain ron]

At least some of my hoses are cilcone and most have the proper clamp but not all. I think I will replace them , what do you recomend I use for hose and clamps?

[ceieio]

Ron - did you check for anti freeze in the oil?

[captain ron]

I looked at the oil on the dipstick and it seems normal.

[Dallas]

At least some of my hoses are cilcone and most have the proper clamp but not all. I think I will replace them , what do you recomend I use for hose and clamps?

Ron,

I've changed the hoses in my 4103 to silicone and haven't used the constant torque clamps on them but I did clean up the metal connector tubes with sand paper the painted then with rust neutralizer and black engine paint. So far so good, after 3 years the only problem I have had was where I cut the lower radiator hose too short and it rubbed against the engine cradle until it got a pinhole leak in it.
Interestingly, it didn't leak as long as the coolant was warm and the engine was running, but about an hour after shutting down would start dripping at the rate of a couple of drops every few minutes... even with the radiator cap open. I never did figure out why it did that.

If you do use standard clamps, make sure they are all stainless steel, (Use a magnet on the screw), the cheaper ones with mild steel screws seem to lose torque quickly and rust until you can't turn them without breaking the screw. You may also want to use 2 clamps where ever possible and put them going opposite directions.

Good Luck!
Dallas

[Busted Knuckle]

Personally I love using a shrink fit clamp made by Gates and sold by NAPA called power grip they come in many sizes! I put them on Dad's bus when I put the new engine in it 03/06 (new hoses too!) and haven't had a problem yet! you slip the "sleeve/clamp" over the hose put the hose on, use a heat gun to heat the clamp so that it shrinks, once it has the hose held in place move on to the next one (if doing more than one). Once done installing the clamps start it up and take it out for a spin getting it up to normal operating temps, bring it back and park it! The heat from the system finishes the process of fully shrink fitting the clamps to proper fit, and they re tighten them selves when ever needed as the engine reaches operating temps! Pricey? Sort of but not compared to some of the other stainless spring loaded clamps, especially when you consider these tighten themselves automatically! FWIW!   BK 

[Sojourner]

Simple old trick to check for water or coolant in engine oil (even if it look normal) is run a butane lighter under dip-stick and watch for bubbling in oil film. No bubbling...no water. After all...water boil before oil.

FWIW

Sojourn for Christ, Jerry


PS.....Thanks BK for informative news about the latest hose clamp. Wonder how long it will last after it aged?

[belfert]

I finally found the Power Grip clamps on the Gates website.  It looks like these to be destroyed to be removed, correct?  Gates says to remove you need a special tool or a soldering iron.  Bk, how have you removed these?