Greasing top door hinge

[Sebulba]

Hello all,

2 years ago,I put a new bottom hinge and a good use top hinge since the previous ones were completely shot.

I decided it would be a good idea to grease them again today.  The bottom one took grease fine.  The top one, though, I can't seem to get to take any grease.  I replaced the zerk, in case that was the problem, still won't work.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Seb

[Sebulba]

Well, I couldn't take it.  I took the zerk off and shoved a drill bit up there a dug out all the old grease that I could, then I shot some kroil up there.  I let it sit a while and put some kroil in the zerk.  I hit it again with the grease gun and it worked. 

I'll let it work a while and hit it again with some fresh grease. 

How often do you think I should grease this. 

It is our permanent home, so it does get pretty regular use.

Thanks

Seb

[luvrbus]

Use a good full synthetic grease and it won't cake and harden and the place you are greasing will always take grease 

[Sebulba]

Use a good full synthetic grease and it won't cake and harden and the place you are greasing will always take grease 

I am not sure what I used on that 2 years ago.  It was clear.  I usually use Amsoil, but there was a time I was out and I'm not sure what I bought.

Thanks

Seb

[Sebulba]

ello all,

I know how I am and if it's a hassle to do something, sometimes it doesn't get done.  Like not greasing this door for 2 years, even though we use it every day.

So, I went to O'Reilly and found an extension to put on that grease fitting, so that I can grease it was without having to remove 2 panels.

It was a simple matter of taking the zerk of the bottom of the hinge and screwing in the extension.  I still have to mount the other end when I put the panels back on.  Then I can give it a shot if grease a couple times a year.

Seb

[Jim Blackwood]

You have to grease the door hinge?
Hmmm...

Jim

[luvrbus]

You have to grease the door hinge?
Hmmm...

Jim

I think there was 3 places on my DL3 to grease the heavy door,I remove the door closer from the inside and remote mounted the other 2 with 1/8 inch brake line material and a swivel joint to grease the other 2 from one spot  at the bottom of the door,those doors are not much fun to replace the hinges and rollers 

[Jim Blackwood]

I have recently mounted pairs of electric linear actuators on my car for a hood lift and wing actuators and have a 3rd set I will be adding to the gas struts on the bed platform in the bus so I'm just wondering if a larger one might be suitable for opening and closing the door? That'd make it all electric which seems like it'd be an advantage. What do you guys think? Would it be hard to get the latch to work?

Jim

[luvrbus]

I have recently mounted pairs of electric linear actuators on my car for a hood lift and wing actuators and have a 3rd set I will be adding to the gas struts on the bed platform in the bus so I'm just wondering if a larger one might be suitable for opening and closing the door? That'd make it all electric which seems like it'd be an advantage. What do you guys think? Would it be hard to get the latch to work?

I have seen the actuators with quick release to open the door and close with the actuators but I never have been able to find those,I have tried to adapt a trunk closer from a GM car but it wasn't strong enough 

Jim

[Jim Blackwood]

No, I doubt those would be. The ones with the motor off to the side are stronger though and come in a lot of different sizes. They use a double worm and pinion gear reduction from the motor to drive the screw so that's basically a triple reduction setup.

Here is one I looked at which could work, the speed and stroke being the limitations. With thrust capabilities up into 2000-3000 lb range I'm pretty sure it is up to the job. I have some of their smaller actuators. I think the first thing is to determine how much force is needed.

For example, with an average of 120psi of air, a 2" cylinder would generate 377 lbs of force and a 3" one would make 700 lbs of force. I have a surplus door cylinder and it appears to be two stage but I don't know the diameters yet as I haven't disassembled it. The link below should be for one with 900lbs of force and 1.11"/sec speed. Which means full travel would take 9 seconds and should be acceptable if a little slow.

https://www.progressiveautomations.com/products/pa-hd2?variant=44240160358580

It's a bit pricey at about $350 but there are probably cheaper ones out there that might also work.

Jim

[Jim Blackwood]

Well, you can call me stupid if you like, I'd forgotten the claw was on the opposite side of the door. Anyway, the cylinder has two chambers. It looks like one is a 2" bore and the other is 2-1/2" and the travel is 5". If both chambers were pressurized at 120 psi that would give about 960 lbs of force if my calculations are right so the electric strut above should work. The claw, being pneumatic should latch in as usual I would think.

Jim