Looking for Webasto 2020 / 230 and pump for 102DL3

[Matt Crowder]

Recently acquired a 102DL3 with a S60. Has the controller for the Webasto but looks like it was removed and the piping bypassed at some point in the past. Wiring harnesses are all intact and fuel lines are still there capped off.

Does anyone have one of these and/or any related mounting hardware they are looking to get rid of?
If not, any suggestions on a salvage yard I might could locate one?
I checked with Fowlers whom I've purchased odds and ends for our 102c3 and they only have Proheat x45s.

Thanks!
Matt

[freds]

Actually the Proheat might be superior to a Webasto. A lot of Webasto's fail due to controller failures and there is an after market controller that is available. Just know that is it, no details on hand.

So it your bus setup for a hydronic system or is this just preheat for the motor and maybe the drivers station in the bus?

[sledhead]

I   2nd the go with a proheat . I replaced my Aqua-hot and have never looked back and other than a cleaning and inspection of the fuel nozzle no other maintance has been done unlike all the maintanace I had to do on the aqua-hot
The pro heat is a better system for me works every time

[Jim Blackwood]

The Eiberspacher is another option and seems to work well, those were fairly common in the DL. (what year is yours?)

The controller was a timer and what you really need is a thermostat. Any 2 wire switch will work. You can change the plumbing as desired, use it just for cabin heat for example.

Jim

[Matt Crowder]

Thanks for the comments.

I'm was looking to use the Webasto for engine preheat as well as a coolant heater for the OTR heater core. We are retaining the OTR heat and AC with the conversion and with a modified design (similar to what Jim is planning) will be using the original duct work, fans, etc. when parked. When parked the Webasto would serve as diesel fired heat if it's too cold out for other options. The bus will be used a significant amount in the winter.

I'm sure we could retrofit a Proheat x45 in the space the Webasto was previously located. I figured the Webasto would be the easiest to re-implement as all the control wiring, plumbing, and part of the mounting is already there since one was previously installed in the bus. I'm not concerned about the maintenance as repair / rebuild is something I'm comfortable with.

The Proheat is 45k BTU and the Webasto is 78.5k BTU. With the reduced BTU, the Proheat also burns about half the fuel per hour of the Webasto. With one of the two being our primary source of heat on a cold night, I wonder if the reduced BTU of the Proheat still be enough for our needs.

Jim,
The bus is a 99' DL3 so I guess it could have been the Eiberspacher or Webasto from what the manuals show. I read somewhere those both used the same Webasto controller? As for the controller, I was planning to keep the MCI one for OTR / preheat use and when parked use an alternate control system. We do a lot of work with custom controls and building automation. Still trying to decide what I want to do for controls when parked. Lots of options.

Thanks!
-Matt

[lostagain]

The Webasto is fine in my experience. Just do your preventive maintenance once a year and it will serve you well. It is the best thing since buses were invented. The S60 needs it anyway to keep it at 180 in the winter when not at full load, like running around town, or idling.

[Jim Blackwood]

Mine has the Eiberspacher, I think it might be slightly more output than the Webasto but I believe the two units are interchangeable. Same controls and all.

You basically have 2 or 3 circulation loops depending on how you look at it. The cabin is 1, the engine is 1 and the heat source is 1. As it stands you can isolate the cabin by closing 2 manual valves (or 1 manual valve and a solenoid valve maybe) but there is no way to isolate the engine, which you need to be able to do so as to not waste fuel heating the engine when you aren't going to run it. That will just about double your available cabin heat. Take a look at the plumbing and you should be able to come up with the best way to do that. MCI did use some very large solenoid valves that could work for this, but ball valves are always a good option.

Jim

[buswarrior]

For control purposes, you only need one valve to control coolant flow.

You only need 2 if you are disassembling and don't want to loose the coolant.

For many campers, leaving the engine IN allows access to already warm 2000 lbs of steel. With proper controls or both fluid movement and heat exchanger, the chill can be kept off without the Webasto even firing.

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

[windtrader]

The Webasto is fine in my experience. Just do your preventive maintenance once a year and it will serve you well. It is the best thing since buses were invented. The S60 needs it anyway to keep it at 180 in the winter when not at full load, like running around town, or idling.

Do you have a checklist of PM for a Webasto? I've not done anything in the 4 years I have had my bus. I have noticed it blows visible dark smoke that it did not do before.

[Matt Crowder]

If your Webasto is the 2020/230 model that was used in our 99, the service and repair manual is attached. There is a troubleshooting section. Page 29 has a flowchart if the unit is smoking.

Hopefully that helps!