120 Volt System

[sledhead]

every thing on the 120 v side in my coach is marine wire with terminal ends on every conection . 12 gauge wire or larger

[chessie4905]

They make heavier duty receptacles that the stranded wire is inserted and it clamps them instead of around a screw head. Btw. that theory about solid wire failing in a coach conversion is under extreme conditions and without proper securing of wires.

[richard5933]

They make heavier duty receptacles that the stranded wire is inserted and it clamps them instead of around a screw head. Btw. that theory about solid wire failing in a coach conversion is under extreme conditions and without proper securing of wires.

Good point about securing wires. In our bus all wires are zip tied to within an inch of their lives. Aside from component failure, the only wiring failures I've seen in either of my buses has been due to one of two things - corrosion or wire movement.

[Jim Blackwood]

Those outlets with the option to insert the wire inna hole... ya dinna wanna do that.
It's made for contractors to get in and out fast. Not with your concerns at heart. And even if, your stranded wires don't work there.

Jim

[chessie4905]

No, no, not those. You insert wire which goes between plate and screw with square washer. Tighten screw and its clamped secure.

[lovetofix]

No, no, not those. You insert wire which goes between plate and screw with square washer. Tighten screw and its clamped secure.

Exactly, these are the best!

[mqbus767]

FWIW, I used those recepticles and THHN in a conduit. They cost about 2$ more, but are much stronger all around.

[sledhead]

can u find them at the big box stores

[lovetofix]

can u find them at the big box stores

Yes, that one I had the picture of was Lowes.

[dtcerrato]

FWIW, I used those recepticles and THHN in a conduit. They cost about 2$ more, but are much stronger all around.

Same here with metallic Steel City J-boxes & dedicated green ground conductor with all solid 12g wire _ 20A CBs.

[Jim Blackwood]

THHN isn't a good choice for automotive as mentioned before, but if you used steel conduit it should be safe from burning your bus down even if it shorts out. With pvc conduit it's a bit more risky but at least it won't short to the conduit itself so you'd have to have two wires exposed in the same spot to short. Which isn't as unlikely as it sounds.

I've seen the clear insulation on THHN peel off in as little as 6 months. Apparently it is just too thin to be durable. That leaves the colored insulation but it's also vinyl or pvc and not very thick. I've been wiring industrial equipment for about 50 years now using THHN and the older the wiring is, the more of the clear jacked has failed. Sometimes it just falls off the wire. Not real effective as insulation but in an industrial setting where it never moves it is safe enough. If you have any vibration though I would never be satisfied in counting only on the inner jacket to prevent shorts. It really isn't thick enough.

Jim

[sledhead]

I will look 4 the better recepticals in the 20 amp next time I'm at lowes
thanks


only problem down here in Florida at lowes right now is most of the shelves r empty .
pickin is slim and 2 do some jobs u stand there in the isle thinking of other ways to do the job as what u want is not there so u have 2 improvise
but it always cost more .. do u think they r doing it for more $$$$$$$$$$

1 of the guys at lowes told me they get 1 del. a month 4 conduit boxs and like and they r gone the next day



probably the same back home   

[Glennman]

When I built my house, I used all screwed down connection outlet types. The ones that only stab in do not provide a very complete connection. I think the brass inside only touches the wire, not like the good but more expensive outlets.

[Jim Blackwood]

Those ones with the internal screw clamp are very good and I would choose that over crimp lugs. Not sure what the ratings you're likely to see are. 15a of course but the better ones could be 20, could be 30. I'd go for the higher ones if there isn't a good reason not to. The breaker is there only to protect the wiring and the outlet. That's the entire extent of it's job. If the outlet is rated higher than the breaker that's just an extra safety margin, same as if the wire is heavier than it has to be. Good for peace of mind. Plus if needed later it allows the freedom to install a heavier breaker. Good example: Did a little remodeling in the kitchen which included an outlet strip, and the only circuit readily available was 14 gage wire on a 20 amp breaker. Turns out when you turn on a crock pot and an air fryer it's too much. IF the wiring had been 12 gage it would be a simple matter to switch to a 30a breaker and a 30a outlet to plug the power strips into but to run a new wire is not so simple.

Jim

[sledhead]

12 gauge wire is good for a 20 amp breaker