Need Some Information on Post Power at Campground

[Dallas]

Hey all, I have a question, (like that's unusual).

Yesterday, While I was fixing breakfast for Sue, Frank, Cat and myself, the breaker on the 50A hookup at the pole tripped.
I unhooked and plugged the cord into the 30A receptacle and after about 20 minutes the 30A tripped.

My bus is set up to use 30A and I checked the cord which wasn't even warm. I also checked my panel breakers, which hadn't tripped and they weren't warm.
I normally draw around 24A with everything running, according to the labels on the appliances, computers and Fridge, and have had very little problem with electrical in over 4 years with the same loads.
My 30A main breakers are less than 3 years old and the sub breakers are probably about 5 years old but I'm only using one side of the service panel with one 30A breaker. The other side will be for future upgrades when I will switch it to a full 50A setup.
I use an 8 gauge 50' all weather power cord from Marinco with a dogbone adapter to connect to the 50A receptacle.
90% of the wiring is 12 and 10 gauge stranded THHN less than 4 years old. No electrical tape has been used. Either the connections are soldered w/heatshrink or I've used wire nuts to make junctions. There is one circuit I haven't gotten around to changing yet that uses 12 gauge Romex, but it only runs the bedroom lamps and an alarm clock.
When I plug in the 3 LED circuit checker, it shows that everything is wired correctly.
I also, just in case, connected my Fluke meter from the body to the dirt and had no voltage reading.

Any ideas as to where I should go with my checking from here? I've come to belive that the problem is a campground problem, but I can't prove it. I would just like to be certain that it isn't MY wiring, and that the wife and friends are safe.

Thanks,

Dallas

                                    GO BUSSING!

[DrivingMissLazy]

I do not believe it is in the size of your wiring. Any drop in the conductor will just mean less voltage at the appliance and the appliance will not work at full efficiency, but it will not draw any more current.
One of the best investments that any nut can make, in my opinion, is a clamp on AC/DC ammeter. Maybe not in the budget right now, but maybe you can borrow one.
Richard

[Len Silva]

Dallas,

You really need a clamp-on ammeter to check the AC current draw, they are not all that expensive.  I think you can get an adapter for your Fluke meter.

I suspect you have nothing wrong and it's just tired breakers at the pole.  Breakers that have been tripped many times or just run at near capacity for a long time are subject to failing.

I have had the same thing happen at Disney Fort Wilderness.  Their setup was pretty neat.  The maintenance guy came by and just plugged in a whole new breaker/outlet assemby, done in minutes.

Len

[jjrbus]

Breakers wear out. At campgrounds they are used as switches, they are not switches they are breakers. This use wears them out quicker.
I agree with you, it seems like a campgound problem. This does not make you right it is just that I agree with you.

[Nick Badame Refrig/ACC]

Hi Dallas,

I have to agree with all above... But, also check for loose connections that can heat up the breakers. That will also tripp them.

Everytime a breaker is used, it weakens.

Nick-

[Hi yo silver]

I'm betting the voltage was low.  Lower voltage means higher current, which would, in turn, trip the breaker.  The other possibility is that there was too much demand (load) on one leg, which could trip the breaker.

Dennis

[Dallas]

I really don't know, I haven't had any problem since.

There was a lot of demand in the CG that day.... temp in the means that everyone was running A/C's plus the CG wiring isn't all that new. It could have been low voltage.

The day before I did have a problem charging the house batteries. It seemd that I couldn't get the charger to produce full power even though the batteries were extremely low.

I ended up charging the batteries from the car alternator. Since that time, I've had no problem keeping them charged either.

Dallas

[Sojourner]

Hi yo silver is correct.

One of most overlook problem is whenever circuit breaker snap off & or burn-out high current appliances. That is to look for voltage reading while under appliance starting mode & with other load on. It favorable to have 115v or 230v is the best for average electrical appliance life. Some appliance will say minimum of 99v or 198v but you are shortened appliance's life sooner to buy a new one. You may have to run your generator until voltage is up to par & stable.

FWIW

Sojourn for Christ, Jerry

[JackConrad]

Dallas,
   We installed an EMS (energy management system). This unit monitors the electrical input and shuts down the sytem if voltage drops or increases beyond preset limits or if frequency is out of range. This monitors shoreline and generator inputs.  Jack

[Hi yo silver]

Another option is to use an autotransformer.  When used between CG receptacles and your power cord, it cleans up power by eliminating voltage fluxuations, and compensates for low voltage conditions.  I don't have one, so I don't know what the operating range is.
Dennis