Removing lug nuts (without breaking them) - Page 2
 

Removing lug nuts (without breaking them)

Started by benherman1, March 27, 2020, 07:25:20 PM

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benherman1

So far the only Impact I've used is a 3/4 drive. All the ones I got loose (and broke) were with the cheater bar. I'm pretty sure the penetrating oil has no luck with how well everything is sealed. I'm glad to know I'm not the only one with this fun problem at least... Next step is to try to get the old torch I found in my parent bard working and see if I can coax it loose that way.
1964 MC5A - 5289 - Bloomington IN

chessie4905

When lug nuts are that tight, 3/4" drive extensions can flex or twist, not allowing maximum torque. Keep extension as short as practical. One inch drive, cheater bar and extensions with a jackstand  to ensure proper alignment will break it loose or snap it off.
GMC h8h 649#028 (4905)
Pennsylvania-central

benherman1

I think a lack of keeping it straight was the cause of the broken one. It looks like it pulled it off sideways while I was hanging on the other end of the bar. As far as the size goes everything I have so far is 3/4 drive impact which I haven't managed to break yet. I'm hoping to not have to go with 1" so I don't have to spend a bunch more money. I probably would have started with a 1" air impact if my 1930s compressor could keep up...
1964 MC5A - 5289 - Bloomington IN

Jim Eh.

"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
Jim Eh.
1996 MC12
6V92TA / HT741D
Winnipeg, MB.

kyle4501

I have a torque multiplier similar to this one on ebay (# 153406041907 )

I have run a thin (ground down a standard one) outer nut down on the inner nut & welded them together. If the weld is over the inner stud, it will back off.

I then replace that stud.

Alcoa has specifications for minimum length of stud past the mounting flange. Too short & the inner nut has a tendency to loosen or crack. . . . .
Life is all about finding people who are your kind of crazy

Get your facts first, then you can distort them as you please (Mark Twain)

Education costs money.  But then so does ignorance. (Sir Claus Moser)

benherman1

Quote from: kyle4501 on March 30, 2020, 04:57:31 PM
I have a torque multiplier similar to this one on ebay (# 153406041907 )

I have run a thin (ground down a standard one) outer nut down on the inner nut & welded them together. If the weld is over the inner stud, it will back off.

I then replace that stud.

Alcoa has specifications for minimum length of stud past the mounting flange. Too short & the inner nut has a tendency to loosen or crack. . . . .

I thought about sacrificing one of the outer lugs for that method. I'm not sure my crappy mig welder will manage to attach it well enough though. If the newly acquired torch doesn't make the cut that or the drilling method is next.
1964 MC5A - 5289 - Bloomington IN

kyle4501

Quote from: benherman1 on April 01, 2020, 02:10:11 PM
. . . . I'm not sure my crappy mig welder will manage to attach it well enough though. If the newly acquired torch doesn't make the cut that or the drilling method is next.

Get the nut on, heat nut & inner nut with torch, weld on it while it is still hot - the weld will penetrate better when the parts are preheated.
Life is all about finding people who are your kind of crazy

Get your facts first, then you can distort them as you please (Mark Twain)

Education costs money.  But then so does ignorance. (Sir Claus Moser)

uncle ned

4104's forever
6v92 v730
Huggy Bear

Fred Mc

I read an article some time ago which stated that it is dangerous to heat a wheel with an inflated tire on it.Apparently the additional heat can cause the tire to explode.Don't know if this
is true or not but its worth considering.

lostagain

Yes I would think it is true. When I was welding onto the wheel nut last week, I had the tire still on, but I was constantly feeling for heat migrating to the wheel and the tire. I had a pail of cold water with a wet rag to keep everything cool...
JC
Blackie AB
1977 MC5C, 6V92/HT740 (sold)
2007 Country Coach Magna, Cummins ISX (sold)

benherman1

The deed is done. I tried about everything we could come up with and it finally came loose. I'm probably not remembering everything but the list of dumb attempts is as follows:

Heat the outside quickly till It gets easy.
Get it red got then hammer a chisel in.
Use a bolt splitter on the mark from the chisel.
Put wax in the threads while its still hot.
soaked in penetrating oil (for the last two weeks.
Angle grinder on the end then hammer at it with the chisel in the new cut.
Crowbar in the cut.
Dremel drilling at the base
What finally got it loose: Dremel cutoff wheel slicing at the base then large amounts of heat.

I learned a valuable lesson at least. As my friend Jim put it "Big trucks, Big bucks". I got two more off today without incident and will attempt the last four on the next nice day.
1964 MC5A - 5289 - Bloomington IN

chessie4905

Finally having success on an impossible job like that is sure a good confidence booster. Well done!
GMC h8h 649#028 (4905)
Pennsylvania-central

Melbo

dremel tools are the best for hard parts in small spaces. 

Congratulations.

Melbo
If it won't go FORCE it ---- if it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway
Albuquerque, NM   MC8 L10 Cummins ZF

Lin

If one is worried about heat causing the air in the tire to expand enough to blow the tire, let air out of the tire.
You don't have to believe everything you think.

Ed Hackenbruch

I was thinking the same thing Lin, just take the valve core out.
Used to own a 1968 MCI 5A and a 1977 5C.