4104/spicer output shaft seal marking it’s territory

Bountyflyer · March 31, 2020, 06:31:53 PM

I have 2 buses 3 trannies. Transmission#1 had a chatastrophic input shaft bearing/nut failure. Still made it from Amarillo to Boulder City NV using 1st then 4th gears only. It was always leaking at the output shaft seal since I had the bus.... So when I bought an other transmission from Tampa I wanted to check the seal on the new purchase and compare it with the old one. Plus I had to swap the brake drum over since the new tranny didn't have a brake drum. The old transmission had a single modern seal in it. With the round spring and all. However the newly purchased tranny had all kind a extra parts around the seal like large washers and other rings squeezing some sort of flat rubber (?) part.

Now that I'm driving the bus 2-3 times a week the newly purchased tranny started to leak as well. The old tranny's output shaft wobbled a little, so I wasn't surprised that it leaked. The newly bought tranny runs great, not a bit of vibration or anything, it just leaks from the output shaft seal. Owning an Austin Healey I'm used to marking territory but I would like to tow a nice classic truck behind the bus and the oil gets on the back of the bus right now and consequently will get on the nice truck behind it. (1964 F100 with 3 on the tree)

When I installed the large nut holding the parking brake drum I used ultra copper sealant because I've found traces of it on both transmissions.

Any recommendations how to properly do this? And more importantly, where to buy a new output shaft seal? I'll appreciate any input you have!

oltrunt · March 31, 2020, 07:04:29 PM

I hate oil leaks. I bought a Studebaker in Seattle and drove it to La. It used 4 cases of oil (and two front tires) on the trip. Long story short, the cork front crankshaft seal was completely missing and the king pins were shot. I patched up the seal, put a couple of skins up front and traded it for an old Terry travel trailer--I think we both got beat up pretty bad.

My advice? buy another bus and hope it doesn't leak and memorize Brad Paisley's lyrics--there is no cure for the bus disease. Jack

Raymond smith · March 31, 2020, 07:14:12 PM

Buy another bus. Wow. Get the proper seal. If the bearing is worn, change it. If the yoke is worn, change it. Everything can be fixed.

Bountyflyer · March 31, 2020, 09:15:32 PM

Where can I buy a proper seal?

These buses were made so they can be repaired. I always get amazed how well they were built. I'm gaining more and more knowledge about different systems. Getting better as I go.

richard5933 · April 01, 2020, 04:37:51 AM

Quote from: Bountyflyer on March 31, 2020, 09:15:32 PM
Where can I buy a proper seal?

These buses were made so they can be repaired. I always get amazed how well they were built. I'm gaining more and more knowledge about different systems. Getting better as I go.

The first number in your speed dial for parts like this should be Luke at US Coach in NJ. Phone number is: 856-794-3104

Calling is the best way to reach him. Luke is generally in from about 9:30am - 4:30pm eastern time. Not always there on Fridays, if at all.

Likely he has the seal sitting on the shelf and can get it sent out today. He's a huge supporter of us all in the bus world, and should probably be the first place you try for most things like this.

Bountyflyer · April 01, 2020, 07:30:58 AM

Thank you! I'll call him.

richard5933 · April 01, 2020, 07:47:04 AM

Quote from: Bountyflyer on April 01, 2020, 07:30:58 AM
Thank you! I'll call him.

Ask him about the parking brake shoe as well. Might have a used one on a parts bus or maybe even a new one.

luvrbus · April 01, 2020, 08:39:30 AM

Most the time just replacing the seal doesn't last unless you install a wear sleeve on the flange,if the propeller has wear in the splines the vibration beats the seal out also,make sure the pump is working also

dtcerrato · April 01, 2020, 09:07:02 AM

Bountyflyer I replaced our output transmission seal in our 4104 in 2009. We purchased it from a local bearing house. The part number is SKF 31261. The large nut on that shaft is a doozy at over 1000 lbs of torque - we wrestled it with a 600 lb - 3/4" torque wrench & 4 to 1 (3/4" to 1") torque multiplier. A little persistence and it all came apart & all went together okay. Been bone dry for leaks since then. If you want to fill your tranny for the last time in your life go with a full synthetic 50 wt. Ours has Shell Dentax in it (no longer available) - 500,000+ mile change interval & much smoother, easier shifting. Good luck, keep us posted.

Van · April 01, 2020, 11:08:04 AM

There is a place in town to get the seal.

Bountyflyer · April 01, 2020, 12:10:09 PM

Quote from: Van on April 01, 2020, 11:08:04 AM
There is a place in town to get the seal.

Where at?! I would love to find them!

luvrbus · April 01, 2020, 12:22:24 PM

Aztec on Russel Road in Vegas will have it,Van knows of other places,Aztec has a lot of speedy sleeves and seals if you need one

Van · April 01, 2020, 04:27:33 PM

Quote from: luvrbus on April 01, 2020, 12:22:24 PM
Aztec on Russel Road in Vegas will have it,Van knows of other places,Aztec has a lot of speedy sleeves and seals if you need one

Dat the one Cliff, there are others scattered around town.

Bountyflyer · April 01, 2020, 07:17:08 PM

Thanks guys, will look into it!

dtcerrato · April 02, 2020, 07:18:18 AM

Keep in mind that the seal part number I gave is seal on original shaft, no sleeve.