Sign Panel Skin Buckled

[Jim Blackwood]

Is there any way that you can run a laser down the length of the frame and take accurate measurements?

I was looking at mine last night and there's not enough bulging in the sign boards to ever worry about it, just a slight ripple in a couple of spots. No, not straight as a die but it's a 24 year old vehicle. That can be accepted. Yours I realize was much worse.

If you can find the space for it and accurately align a laser you should be able to set gage blocks on the frame at 3 or 4 points and just intersect the bottom edge of the beam at the same height all the way down the frame. That could tell you if there is any bow in the frame or not and give you a good bit of data to work from. It doesn't have to be anything too elaborate, for instance I have a cheap HF level that has a laser pointer built in.

Jim

[Jcparmley]

That's a good idea.  I would need to find a spot that is pretty level. 

Is there any way that you can run a laser down the length of the frame and take accurate measurements?

I was looking at mine last night and there's not enough bulging in the sign boards to ever worry about it, just a slight ripple in a couple of spots. No, not straight as a die but it's a 24 year old vehicle. That can be accepted. Yours I realize was much worse.

If you can find the space for it and accurately align a laser you should be able to set gage blocks on the frame at 3 or 4 points and just intersect the bottom edge of the beam at the same height all the way down the frame. That could tell you if there is any bow in the frame or not and give you a good bit of data to work from. It doesn't have to be anything too elaborate, for instance I have a cheap HF level that has a laser pointer built in.

Jim

[Jcparmley]

Anyone know how to weld this stainless panel to the stainless frame?  I would like to reuse the panel but not use the rivits that so often rust. 

The siding is stainless steel but a magnet will stick on a DL bus

[chessie4905]

Stainless steel rivets. Check Blyler river. I bought my Shave head style from them when I replaced front panel below headlamps.

[Jcparmley]

How might you suggest I prop the bus up to get it straight?  Is there a place specifically I should jack up?  I believe John316 had a problem with his Dl3 and he sold it.  I'm not sure what exactly his buses structure problem was but while my floor is out I want to take a close look at my buses foundation.  Any suggestions on where to look?

To make these repairs correctly, the bus needs to be straight before welding.

Propping the body in whatever places to get it straight.

Gussets to broken welds.

The DL flex going down the road.

Put your hand between a stick shift and the driver's modesty panel, over the bridge expansion joints, the stick moved fore and aft with the torsion...

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

[buswarrior]

Block and shim at each bulkhead to see if it will straighten out. You're using the weight of the coach to sag back straight before welding in your repair.

You have an idea where it is sagging, see what blocking that will do to your chosen line.

Adding gussets in more places than just the obvious was done by busnuts on earlier models, spread the strength out, the bending is accumulative to the break point.

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

[Jcparmley]

That is a great suggestion.  I will block it up to see if I can get it straight.  THere is not much sag at all but I will see what I can do.  Derrick Thomas stopped in while passing through and he looked down the side.  He didn't see much sag but the panel's were buckled either way.  I tore the floor out this past weekend and I took some pics. It looks like the beams that run from front to back are in good shape.  Just a little bit of surface rust but not a big deal.  I will treat with rust converter and then prime it.  However the short beams above the rear wheels that attach to the main center beam and go out to the sides of the bus are rusted through.  I will need to replace those entirely.  Here is a pic of the main beam.

Block and shim at each bulkhead to see if it will straighten out. You're using the weight of the coach to sag back straight before welding in your repair.

You have an idea where it is sagging, see what blocking that will do to your chosen line.

Adding gussets in more places than just the obvious was done by busnuts on earlier models, spread the strength out, the bending is accumulative to the break point.

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

[Jcparmley]

Here is some pics of the three or four beams that attach to the main beam and go out toward the side of the bus.  These are directly over the wheel wells.  When I pulled all the rust out to clean up the area it was very wet and damp inside those short beams.  No wonder why it has huge holes rotted through.

[Jcparmley]

My plan was to block the bus.  Take the rear wheels off and weld in new beams to replace the ones that are rotted.  Then I was planing on using 1/4 plate and weld it across the new beams to tie it all together.  Then I will treat and prime it.  Then my plan is to make some new wheel well shields out of stainless and see if I can seal up that area as best as possible so no moisture gets in.  Then I will fill the cavity with closed cell spray foam to seal it some more.  What are your thoughts?

[windtrader]

The photos show rust in abundance. Do you think other areas might have similar corrosion? It might make sense to first understand the extent of the rust issues, then sort out various options.

[buswarrior]

You may want to have an eye to both front to back sag, and side to side.

I would be hesitant to fill the cavity with foam? Was it closed in from the factory? Drains in bottom? What happens if/when water gets in there, either through your repair or from above? Leaking window, plumbing failure, unseen gap or otherwise?

Would you be recreating the same problem as the stock assembly?

How long before it matters?

Tough decisions.

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

[Jcparmley]

The other places of rust is the other rear wheel well.  The rest seams pretty solid.  I will get a better look when I remove the rear tires to inspect.

The photos show rust in abundance. Do you think other areas might have similar corrosion? It might make sense to first understand the extent of the rust issues, then sort out various options.

[Dave5Cs]

Jcparmley
John's 316's Bus had a bad airbag support which when he sold it to Clifford he fixed it first thing. Its going to have a clawfoot tub in it some day soon for Cliffords wife. 
MCI DL 3  Bus. HTH

[thomasinnv]

Dave, Jared's bus is a DL3 as well. Same as Cliff's.

[Jcparmley]

I've been looking through my manual and I can't find a diagram of the floor structure.  I want to see and identify the beams that need to be repaired.  Does anyone know where there might be a diagram of the floor structure above the wheel wells on a MCI 102dl3?