Lifting & Supporting the Bus - Page 2
 

Lifting & Supporting the Bus

Started by GnarlyBus, May 01, 2019, 10:08:02 PM

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peterbylt

I use Cribbing, I have a stack of pressure treated 4x4x36 that I stack to support the bus.

I got the idea to use the Cribbing after watching a FEMA video about supporting damaged structures.

My usual method is to get the bus completely aired up, drive it up on the ramps and then crib it up under the jacking points and let it settle down on the cribbing.

The first time I did this, I was nervous about crawling under 26,000 pounds, so I let it sit for two days just to make sure before going under.

The one time I was not able to drive it up on the ramps, was when the air drier purge valve failed, and I could not get enough air pressure to release the brakes.
I used the 20-ton bottle jack and slowly jacked the bus up cribbing and jacking in stages until I was able to get under.

I was able to put 2 of the 4x4 side by side under the bottle jack to support it while jacking it higher, this could make a base for you to jack on.

Getting the bus up to work under usually takes me a few hours, I usually get it jacked up and cribbed on one day then do the work the next.

I keep the 4x4's stacked in one of the luggage bays, they come in useful for many things including leveling the bus in uneven campsites.






Peter

Tampa Fl,

1989 MCI 96A3, 8V92TA

chessie4905

GMC h8h 649#028 (4905)
Pennsylvania-central

Oonrahnjay

Bruce H; Wallace (near Wilmington) NC
1976 Daimler (British) Double-Decker Bus; 34' long

(New Email -- brucebearnc@ (theGoogle gmail place) .com)

lostagain

A few hours !? I drive my bus on 2 by lumber, then support the body with lumber stacked under the jack points. Takes me about 15 minutes max. Then I am rolling under with a creeper to do service.

JC
JC
Blackie AB
1977 MC5C, 6V92/HT740 (sold)
2007 Country Coach Magna, Cummins ISX (sold)

DoubleEagle

Quote from: peterbylt on May 03, 2019, 02:06:52 PM

I use Cribbing, I have a stack of pressure treated 4x4x36 that I stack to support the bus.

Your 4 X 4 stack makes me nervous, sad to say. Those are Treated Southern Pine, which are not particularly strong, especially with big knots in the middle of a span. I use 6 X 6 Treated, and I put them closer together when I use them. For the heaviest load I use pin style steel jack stands rated for 22 tons. The steel stands give you more working room, and have a welded-in platform base.
Walter
Dayton, Ohio
1975 Silvereagle Model 05, 8V71, 4 speed Spicer
1982 Eagle Model 10, 6V92, 5 speed Spicer
1984 Eagle Model 10, 6V92 w/Jacobs, Allison HT740
1994 Eagle Model 15-45, Series 60 w/Jacobs, HT746

GnarlyBus

Quote from: DoubleEagle on May 03, 2019, 06:07:38 PM
For the heaviest load I use pin style steel jack stands rated for 22 tons. The steel stands give you more working room, and have a welded-in platform base.

Ever use them on asphalt or dirt/gravel?
1984 MC-9 w/ 6v92TA & Allison 740
Oregon Summers & Arizona Winters
Full-Time since 2015

DoubleEagle

On both, the base is very substantial. If I was on soft ground, I would add some thick plywood. Most of the time they are good by themselves. These are the ones I have: https://www.otctools.com/products/22-ton-capacity-jack-stands
Walter
Dayton, Ohio
1975 Silvereagle Model 05, 8V71, 4 speed Spicer
1982 Eagle Model 10, 6V92, 5 speed Spicer
1984 Eagle Model 10, 6V92 w/Jacobs, Allison HT740
1994 Eagle Model 15-45, Series 60 w/Jacobs, HT746

GnarlyBus

Thank you! That's the info i was looking for. I think I'll go with those and make the double thick Baltic birch 1.5" pads for them as a precaution and prolly add some 4x4 cribbing as a precaution. Plus I'll leave the jacks under the jacking points tight.

Where's the best place for jack stands? Under the air bag beams or under the frame from that cribbed pic? I've attached a pic of the two spots being used i found on buses101.
1984 MC-9 w/ 6v92TA & Allison 740
Oregon Summers & Arizona Winters
Full-Time since 2015

DoubleEagle

Can't help you there, all I have are Eagles. When it comes to air bags, all I know is that they can suddenly deflate, so you have to be under something solid and appropriate. The MCI manuals should cover it.
Walter
Dayton, Ohio
1975 Silvereagle Model 05, 8V71, 4 speed Spicer
1982 Eagle Model 10, 6V92, 5 speed Spicer
1984 Eagle Model 10, 6V92 w/Jacobs, Allison HT740
1994 Eagle Model 15-45, Series 60 w/Jacobs, HT746

GnarlyBus

I made some body blocks for the bump stops this week. Painted them yellow and am attaching rope handles.
1984 MC-9 w/ 6v92TA & Allison 740
Oregon Summers & Arizona Winters
Full-Time since 2015

buswarrior

Quote from: GnarlyBus on May 03, 2019, 07:41:52 PM
I made some body blocks for the bump stops this week. Painted them yellow and am attaching rope handles.

That is exactly what Big Transit uses here.

Looks great.

happy coaching!
buswarrior
Frozen North, Greater Toronto Area
new project: 1995 MCI 102D3, Cat 3176b, Eaton Autoshift

Jim Blackwood

Those look like an exceptionally good idea. Something I'll have to keep in mind.

Jim
I saw it on the Internet. It MUST be true...

lostagain

I found that they are awkward to use. You have to crawl under the bus to put them on and off, while the bus is unsupported. I also have forgotten that they were there, and driven away... I prefer a stack of lumber I keep in the shop for under the jack points.

JC   
JC
Blackie AB
1977 MC5C, 6V92/HT740 (sold)
2007 Country Coach Magna, Cummins ISX (sold)

edvanland

strap handles on both sides of the wooden ramps, makes it a lot easier to get out
Ed Van
MCI 7
Cornville, AZ

GnarlyBus

Quote from: buswarrior on May 04, 2019, 05:30:41 AM
That is exactly what Big Transit uses here.

I actually got the idea from you in an old thread. I remember the first time i heard about it i couldn't understand where the 4x4 was supposed to go until i saw this photo you posted. I'll add it to this thread for the next confused newbie. :)
1984 MC-9 w/ 6v92TA & Allison 740
Oregon Summers & Arizona Winters
Full-Time since 2015