Turbo Rebuild Options

Scott & Heather · September 25, 2018, 12:36:23 AM

So I'm prepping to have our turbo replaced on our coach in a few weeks. I know in my past conversations with cliff and some basic research here on the forum, that getting a reman is my best option. Can someone point me in the right direction? Who is the go to company right now for a rebuilt unit that is cost effective? And does anyone recommend I try to replace the turbo myself on my 1992 MCI 102C3 8v92 or just have a shop do this. You guys that know me know I'm not afraid to get intimate with my coach, but I also have two little ones now, 3 year old and 8 month old so my desire to spend inordinate amounts of time on the business end of my bus is not what it used to be. Would love some help going in the right direction here.

blue_goose · September 25, 2018, 05:57:35 AM

Is there a reason for replacing the turbo? I bought a turbo on ebay new for about the same price it cost to rebuild my old one. It isn't a bad job to change on the 102C3, there is lots of room on the turbo side. It is very heavy for someone my age.
Jack

luvrbus · September 25, 2018, 05:59:25 AM

Scott,it's a about 2 hour job just start spraying the nuts and bolts on the exhaust piping now.I use Turbo Resource in Lake Havasu (928)505-4610 www.turboresource.com,the owner Tom is retired Detroit Diesel call him he can help you and will answer your questions if the turbo is bad or not

Scott & Heather · September 25, 2018, 09:51:33 AM

Thanks Jack and Cliff. Ok, I'll do it myself. I'll call Tom today and chat with him. Jack, I have low boost around 9-12 psi under full load absolute max boost. I blow copious amounts of black smoke. I have tons of soot coming out between the hot and cold sides of the turbo where they are sandwhiched together. This soot has now covered everything in the engine compartment and is also making its way into the living area of the coach in minute amounts. I've degreased and pressure washed the engine to determine if soot was coming from any of the exhaust manifolds and it is not. Only source is the union between the two sides of the turbo. I've replaced the vband clamp and that didn't make any difference.

Geoff · September 25, 2018, 01:01:29 PM

Quote from: Scott & Heather on September 25, 2018, 09:51:33 AM
Thanks Jack and Cliff. Ok, I'll do it myself. I'll call Tom today and chat with him. Jack, I have low boost around 9-12 psi under full load absolute max boost. I blow copious amounts of black smoke. I have tons of soot coming out between the hot and cold sides of the turbo where they are sandwhiched together. This soot has now covered everything in the engine compartment and is also making its way into the living area of the coach in minute amounts. I've degreased and pressure washed the engine to determine if soot was coming from any of the exhaust manifolds and it is not. Only source is the union between the two sides of the turbo. I've replaced the vband clamp and that didn't make any difference.

I remember you complaining about this problem before. I have a bit of experience rebuilding turbos and from what I know you have built up a lot of carbon between the center section and exhaust sides of the turbo so clamping the heck out of it will not solve you problem. While a rebuilt turbo would solve your immediate problem, it is not that much work to take the exhaust snail off the turbo off and chip, grind and clean up the surface and of course the surface of the center side also so they mate up smoothly and evenly, and stop the exhaust leak. That is what I would do, and if I could take the exhaust side off without removing the whole turbo I would that too. If your turbo is not leaking oil then it is probably still good. I think your problem started because at some point somebody left the clamp loose and exhaust started leaking though the mating surfaces and the carbon has built up.

--Geoff

neoneddy · September 25, 2018, 01:53:54 PM

Out of curiosity, what should the turbo boost pressure be at WOT (once built up)? It's been a while since I even attempted it, (I don't like shooting fuel out my exhaust) but I recall never seeing much more than 14-18 lbs boost on my lil'6v92

luvrbus · September 25, 2018, 01:59:40 PM

A 6v92TA will boost to 21 to 25 lbs under full rpm with a load

tuccitown · September 25, 2018, 02:00:49 PM

Do you know which turbo you need, I have a new one that I'm not using at the moment.

Jack

lostagain · September 25, 2018, 07:00:41 PM

That's right Clifford, when going up a hill hell bent for election, I see 25ish psi boost out of my turbo.

JC

Scott & Heather · September 25, 2018, 07:39:24 PM

Geoff, you're probably right. I might try that route first and see how far I get. Those two seem to be somewhat seized together but obviously there's a gap there since it's leaking air. I do not have a drop of oil leaking anywhere around the turbo and there isn't any play in the shaft and the fins look fine. So it's likely ok and I just need to do what you said but I'm not sure I could get those two halves to be perfectly smooth and seal perfectly again. I'll give it a whirl though.

Jack I know cliff had told me on Facebook which turbo I needed but I completely forgot and never wrote it down. Cliff, if you can remind me what the numbers were I'd be grateful.

eagle19952 · September 25, 2018, 08:20:04 PM

Quote from: Scott & Heather on September 25, 2018, 07:39:24 PM
Geoff, you're probably right. I might try that route first and see how far I get. Those two seem to be somewhat seized together but obviously there's a gap there since it's leaking air. I do not have a drop of oil leaking anywhere around the turbo and there isn't any play in the shaft and the fins look fine. So it's likely ok and I just need to do what you said but I'm not sure I could get those two halves to be perfectly smooth and seal perfectly again. I'll give it a whirl though.

Jack I know cliff had told me on Facebook which turbo I needed but I completely forgot and never wrote it down. Cliff, if you can remind me what the numbers were I'd be grateful.

Razor knife
scraper, a stiff one you can sharpen on a fine stone or grinder wheel
emery cloth
make believe you are an archaeologist

Scott & Heather · September 26, 2018, 05:38:32 AM

Somewhere I'm pretty sure I mentioned I'm a dad of a 3 year old and 8 month old and a silly busy tour schedule. I'm crisscrossing the country right now giving about 150 events a year. There's a point where it is a better use of my time to buy a rebuild vs play archaeologist and pop it in there and call it a day. Just sayin.

luvrbus · September 26, 2018, 06:23:59 AM

The 2 mating flanges warp over time and most of the time they need to be machined back to the original spec,you get lucky on occasions that they will clean up and seat the MCI's are bad because it uses the heavy adapter from the turbo to outlet exhaust pipe held in place with 3 bolts , me I go the exchange route

chessie4905 · September 26, 2018, 07:23:57 AM

You start messing with removing intake or exhaust side, just be extremely careful not to nick or damage impeller fins. They spin in the thousands of rpm's and any little damage or imbalance can destroy unit from fins disintegrating in short order.

Geoff · September 26, 2018, 08:07:46 AM

Don't let the naysayers get you down. A coarse file, a smooth file, and a wire wheel on a drill will clean up the surfaces in less than 30 minutes. They don't warp. The only thing you miss is a sand blaster to make it look pretty. Knock the exhaust snail off and take a look before you order a rebuilt, you have nothing to lose.