MCI 102c3 roof raise or not?

[Jim Blackwood]

Jim needs to get a bus...

YES! I do! Help me guys, that cheap D series with no rust, low miles and good tires within 500 miles of home is still eluding me!

Jim

[RJ]

Help me guys, that cheap D series with no rust, low miles and good tires within 500 miles of home is still eluding me!

Jim -

Time to get pro-active!

Do a DuckDuckGo search for bus companies and transit agencies within your 500 mile parameter and make a list.

Once you've got your list, start calling them and ask for the shop foreman.

When you get him/her on the line, ask if they have any "D" MCIs coming out of service, or that will be soon.

You might just find a gem!

FWIW & HTH. . .

[Jcparmley]

I feel embarrassed to even ask this but does the 102c3 have a wabesto or other diesel fired heater in the engine compartment?  I keep reading posts on Proheat systems and I am getting confused.

floor heat is a slow to heat system but because it is a radiant heat it last a long time .
I am having problems with the aqua hot I have now . If I were to to my own system again I would use a pro heat x45 boiler and a boat 120 v / heat exchange + a plate heat exchange for the engine heat . way less money then a rv diesel boiler but you would need to know what you are doing as it would be complex . or get a oasis combi diesel boiler and a heat exchange for the engine .

look at the boiler post
https://www.busconversionmagazine.com/forum/index.php?topic=33491.0

but you would need a fan forced heater or 2 for instant heat like a cozi heater

dave

[buswarrior]

I can't recall, do you have a 4 stroke or 2 cycle engine in your 102C?

The 4 stroke is likely to have a boiler in it, unless someone has pinched it.

I wrote a bunch of words on the topic a bunch of years ago, perhaps it will help your design thoughts?
http://busnut.com/forum/index.php/topic,3262.0.html

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[Jcparmley]

I have a 6v92ta 2 cycle.  I can't decide if a diesel fired unit is worth it.  I plan on plugging into a pole most of the time as my wife isn't big on camping as it is.  I plan on using AC with heat pump.  I have a 12.5kw generator.  I have a Zantrex 3000 watt inverter.  So what about those nights I while traveling where we pull over somewhere (Walmart)?  What heat source will work.   This is so very confusing regarding all these decisions.

I can't recall, do you have a 4 stroke or 2 cycle engine in your 102C?

The 4 stroke is likely to have a boiler in it, unless someone has pinched it.

I wrote a bunch of words on the topic a bunch of years ago, perhaps it will help your design thoughts?
http://busnut.com/forum/index.php/topic,3262.0.html

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[lvmci]

Jc, get a propane 12volt heater and problem solved, especially if she likes to cook with gas, lvmci...

[buswarrior]

You have a decent generator. You are finished.

So, now get it quiet and run it.

Electric heat. Add the hardware for an engine block heater...

Job done.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[TomC]

The only propane I have is for the stove/oven and my Suburban forced air furnace. Water heater is 2-10gal electric. Just to compare the cost, 2-10gal water heaters were $600, furnace was $550, propane tank (frame mounted) $200, plumbing and cut off solenoid (to control when I want the propane on) another $200 for a total of $1,550. Add in another $300 for electric engine block heater and still are under $2,000. How much is the complete AquaHot, or other like system-and how much maintenance do they have? In the 24 years my water heaters, stove, and furnace have been in, I've done nothing (except drain every so often) to the water heaters, and only replaced the furnace once. Good Luck, TomC

[chessie4905]

I agree completely with you Tom on this one. How many propane furnace problems on this forum over the years and minimal cost for majority of issues. We've seen many Webasto issues here over time. They are expensive and costly to repair in most cases. I know many don't like carrying more than one fuel, but propane furnaces  are pretty trouble free. The big pain for some is ducting. I wonder if you could plumb it through existing ducted ac units with controllable blend damper?
We had a Suburban propane furnace in our 4104 which worked fine for many years. Eventually upgraded to electronic ignition model. Only issue we had was no heat to bathroom due to duct access issues since it was on other side of coach. We also had over the road original coach heat. If I still had it, I think I would duct into factory ductwork.

[Jcparmley]

Tom

I've been reading a ton on this board about hot water heaters, bus heaters, etc.  I have read many of your posts and ever time I read one of your posts on the various topics I say to my self "that makes good sense".  Keep It Simple Stupid is what I keep telling myself.  I think I am going to go with your setup.  It seems like you have been happy with your hot water set up.  I have three females in my family so I want to make sure I plan for enough hot water.  As far as the LP heater, do you duct it?  If so what heater do you have?  I have a 40 foot MCI 102c3.

The only propane I have is for the stove/oven and my Suburban forced air furnace. Water heater is 2-10gal electric. Just to compare the cost, 2-10gal water heaters were $600, furnace was $550, propane tank (frame mounted) $200, plumbing and cut off solenoid (to control when I want the propane on) another $200 for a total of $1,550. Add in another $300 for electric engine block heater and still are under $2,000. How much is the complete AquaHot, or other like system-and how much maintenance do they have? In the 24 years my water heaters, stove, and furnace have been in, I've done nothing (except drain every so often) to the water heaters, and only replaced the furnace once. Good Luck, TomC

[Jim Blackwood]

I like the idea of embedded heat in the floor but two things trouble me. First, what size tube to use and how long of a run before it is at ambient? Making the tubes longer is no help if all the heat is gone after 5 ft. Secondly, to be blunt, leaks. If for instance the optimal tube length is the width of the bus that means am immense number of junctions. Although arguably a faulty or pierced tube could be pulled out and a new one pulled in if that were the case. Just laying a serpentine tube in a large zone seems a formula for failure. In other words, I'd like to see more detail on how this is done.

And on another note,
"Jim -Time to get pro-active!"
That probably deserves it's own thread, or maybe revive the old one.

Jim

[lostagain]

1/2" Pex would be my choice. One length per zone. I've done two houses with in floor heat. 200 foot length per loop. The temp difference between in and out is only a few degrees once the system is flowing at operating temperature. Pex, with Pex fittings and compression rings doesn't leak.

JC

[windtrader]

2cents - Optimal heating system depends on what's needed.


Radiant floor heating is very nice but whether it is best for a bus depends on the nuts typical use pattern. Radiant takes longer before providing heat. Electric is nearly instant, a webasto style is pretty darn quick.


If the heat is needed for prolonged periods of time then the added time radiant takes to warm things up does not create undue discomfort. If heat is needed for a brief time, early evening to tuck into bed then radiant may not be the best choice.


If always on the pole and not a lot needed maybe a simple Walmart room electric heater will do the job.

[lvmci]

Jc, tankless water heaters are great for hi water use, mine is propane gas less than 5" thick, tall and thin, by eccotemp. Several versions, even battery powered, lvmci...

[Jcparmley]

I threw away the stainless duct work in the bus.  I could make some toe kick ducts for under the cabinets, etc.

I agree completely with you Tom on this one. How many propane furnace problems on this forum over the years and minimal cost for majority of issues. We've seen many Webasto issues here over time. They are expensive and costly to repair in most cases. I know many don't like carrying more than one fuel, but propane furnaces  are pretty trouble free. The big pain for some is ducting. I wonder if you could plumb it through existing ducted ac units with controllable blend damper?
We had a Suburban propane furnace in our 4104 which worked fine for many years. Eventually upgraded to electronic ignition model. Only issue we had was no heat to bathroom due to duct access issues since it was on other side of coach. We also had over the road original coach heat. If I still had it, I think I would duct into factory ductwork.