50dn alternator diode replacement help
 

50dn alternator diode replacement help

Started by neoneddy, September 08, 2018, 08:56:37 AM

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neoneddy

So I found at least part of my charging problem.  I have at least one bad diode as it's separated from the base entirely.

Anyone know the best method to remove the base? What size wrench or socket?

I'd like to take the all out and test each one.
Raising hell in Elk River, MN

1982 MCI MC9

6V92 / 4 Speed Auto (HT740) Video Build Log - Bus Conversion & RV Solar company we now started thanks to our Bus

DoubleEagle

If would not feel comfortable doing this myself without detailed manual information or guidance from someone knowledgeable. I would take it to a competent rebuild shop to have it thoroughly checked out, it might need more than just that part. I took out a 50DN from my first Eagle 20 years ago to have it checked out, and it turned out that it was mis-wired, and they charged me nothing, even though they fixed and tested it. Of course, I had given them much business before because of all my vehicles. The 50DN puts out a lot of current, I would not treat it lightly.
Walter
Dayton, Ohio
1975 Silvereagle Model 05, 8V71, 4 speed Spicer
1982 Eagle Model 10, 6V92, 5 speed Spicer
1984 Eagle Model 10, 6V92 w/Jacobs, Allison HT740
1994 Eagle Model 15-45, Series 60 w/Jacobs, HT746

neoneddy

I've looked over the manuals and guides from Remy, MCI even gives detailed instructions for testing everything, but they don't  tell.me the socket type I need. It's like it needs to be super deep or slotted.

I guess I could measure it :-)

Only main concern I have is refilling it with oil, is there anything I need to be concerned about? Is it all downstream of the important parts? (Crank bearing)
Raising hell in Elk River, MN

1982 MCI MC9

6V92 / 4 Speed Auto (HT740) Video Build Log - Bus Conversion & RV Solar company we now started thanks to our Bus

DoubleEagle

Well, you are ahead of things since you have the manuals, the difference is you have oil lubrication and seals to be concerned about. The socket you need is probably a slotted one, just find the correct size deep socket and grind a groove in the side. It will be sacrificed in the name of getting the job done. I don't recommend using a super cheap socket from the orient, it might snap after being ground. If there is enough room, a crow's foot attachment might work, or an open end wrench heated and bent.
Walter
Dayton, Ohio
1975 Silvereagle Model 05, 8V71, 4 speed Spicer
1982 Eagle Model 10, 6V92, 5 speed Spicer
1984 Eagle Model 10, 6V92 w/Jacobs, Allison HT740
1994 Eagle Model 15-45, Series 60 w/Jacobs, HT746

chessie4905

Remove support that diode is attached and diode lead and then remove diode. The ones that aren't mounted to a support can then be removed with a thin one inch wrench. Make sure to mount correctly with respect to polarity and make sure to do correct connections. The diodes are marked with respect to polarity.
GMC h8h 649#028 (4905)
Pennsylvania-central

luvrbus

What diode are you working on ? I use a thin a 1" open end wrench that I ordered from MAC just for that 
Life is short drink the good wine first

TomC

If your alternator is mounted directly to the engine, the engine provides both the oil and oil return automatically. Only thing to check is if your alternator has been updated with the external oil line to the rear bearing. Good Luck, TomC
Tom & Donna Christman. 1985 Kenworth 40ft Super C with garage. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.