Part #s

[OKIE9ERS]

Is there a resource for identifying wheel bearings and seals,
and tie rod ends short of calling MCI with the vin and asking
them for the info? Will they help?
Or does anyone just know and be willing to help?
I'd like to have parts on hand before tearing into it.
Trucks(my wheelhouse) are nearly universal on bearings and
seals for the last 30+ years.
I have catalogs, but nothing for my bus.
Thanks

[chessie4905]

Do you have oil or greased front hubs? Makes a difference on the seal used.Also some coaches used grease at rear hub bearings. There was a seal that rode on outer end of axle stub, keeping differential oil from mixing with tne bearing grease in rear hubs. GMC used them, don't know about MCI's.

[OKIE9ERS]

Im assuming oil since it has the stemco caps with the sight glass and plug..Im hesitant to pop that plug out of there since they tend to become pretty brittle with age, and these look pretty old.
I plan to change all the bearings and races since I have no idea how long theyve been going, and chexk out the brakes and drums. My company has a brake reline shop so shoes shouldnt be an issue, hoping all the drums are still readily available. We sell Webb drums also...Hopefully can save some money buying parts @wholesale
[/quote]

[luvrbus]

When you pull one just take the numbers MCI is Mertior/Rockwell off the self stuff 1/2 the price of MCI

Keep this number 856-794-3104 he stocks a lot of MCI bus parts (Luke)

[chessie4905]

Closely inspect bearings when you remove them. If they aren't brineled pitted or spalled, they can be reused. Clean and closely inspect the inner race behind the rollers and cage for defects. Ive seen good rollers and big pits in that race. Stemco sells replacement rubber plugs. Replace them while you are at it.

[OKIE9ERS]

Thanks for the phone #.
When you say off the shelf meritor do you mean common stuff or oddball ? Im a meritor distributor and if its halfway common I probably have them on my shelf(wholesale).
Just cant find any application guide for mci. Would like to know before pulling one since my shop isnt big enough to get the entire bus in. Cant have it halfway in with a hub off waiting for parts..
I'll likely replace the whole window on the oiler caps..theyre so old cant see thru the window,
Thanks again for the help

[chessie4905]

Might not be that costly just to replace the whole cap assembly. If it was me, I pull a hub and get the bearing and seal numbers off what you have. That way you can also get the proper socket to quickly remove wheel nuts instead of punch and hammer. Also gives you a chance to see what else needs service. Don't forget to check condition of kingpins.

[OKIE9ERS]

Thanks Chessie--I probably will since all the caps have been painted white at least a couple of times, but cost-wise? window kit about 4 bucks my cost, these old oiler caps, probably 25 to 35..

[Dave5Cs]

Don't know if the same as my 5C but this is for that size 3.60"
The Stemco window that measures roughly 3.60"   The repair kit is 359-5912   The complete replacement hub cap seal assy is part number 343-4249.. FYI, the RED plug is part number 359-5915  

Stemco should have a wheel seal kit also. Don't have the number but NAPA will have a wheel seal and bearing, race etc if needed.

[eagle19952]

Thanks Chessie--I probably will since all the caps have been painted white at least a couple of times, but cost-wise? window kit about 4 bucks my cost, these old oiler caps, probably 25 to 35..

Includes plugs ?
I'll take 4. 
Free shipping for members ?

[OKIE9ERS]

4 bucks, wd cost, ..
Turns out mine dont have windows after all, CR brand with just the plugs, got 4 stemco replacements coming. Not the 4249..
If inside the hub is as odd as this cap I may be ordering in bearings/seals...hoping not

[eagle19952]

Includes plugs ?
I'll take 4.  
Free shipping for members ?


hmmm. must be ignored, best check my profile again...

[OKIE9ERS]

4 bucks..sure man, but you gonna have to pay the freight..tough call for me though because youve been so nice, but sorry, not gonna lose money on the deal..

[OKIE9ERS]

Dont really get the attitude eagle...you took issue with my comments about fuel treatments in today's trucks..these trucks need it, my customers are furious if we run out, many change fuel filters weekly. Luvrbus took the time to explain the difference in my 81 and todays trucks. I didnt know, thats why I asked. Thanks again, Luvrbus..
Then Im talking with chessie about my options for hub oilers.
I sell truck parts.
I can buy at cost.
Im glad.
Apparently you have an issue with that too.??
Ive had my bus since Monday---so excited---one downer issue all week, guess what that was "hero" eagle

[Oonrahnjay]

...  about fuel treatments in today's trucks..these trucks need it, my customers are furious if we run out, ... 

       I've never driven a truck but I have almost 500K miles on VW TDIs.   My first TDI had "Power Service" in every tank.  It ran like a charm for 129K miles until a drunk totalled it.  I replaced it with a similar used model with 109K miles.  The replacement was "off lease" -- it had never had any service, no fuel treatments, anything (there was a birds nest in the cabin filter) -- and sorry to be sexist but when I saw the groove under the brake pedal worn in the carpet from a high-heeled shoe, I shoulda known better than to buy it.  Even with Power Service, I immediately noticed a very slight "stutter" on downhills where you have to take your foot entirely off the accel pedal.  That stutter got worse and within 50K miles. it got a lumpy idle and finally wouldn't idle at red lights at all.  Diagnosis - worn "wobble plate" and metering mechanism in the fuel pump (Bosch VE type).   After a full rebuild - $1400 - back on the road.
       Then we got Ultra-Low-Sulfur fuel.  Bosch put in a directive to the ASTM committee that their fuel pumps needed fuel with 480 rating on the scar wear test -- the petroleum companies said they would make more money with a 560 rating (the lower the number rating for the fuel, the more protection).  The standard was set at 560.  So, in the 10 or so years since ULSD fuel, I've run Power Service.  For 300K on the rebuilt pump, I've never had a hickup.
       I know that the petroleum companies have our best interests at heart and will do everything to make our products perfect.  Yeah, I know that.    But try to get me to run a tank of fuel without additive.   Stick a gun to my head and try it.  Go ahead.

(Re:  Oil treatments.  My TDIs have had Delvac full-synthetic 5W-40 Mobil "1" oil every 10 - 12K miles for every oil change I've done.  (Dunno what oil was put in my "new" '03 when it was on-lease; my guess is cheapest SHoneT possible.)   I took the oil pan off to change to chain drive on the oil pump - just "because" - at 350K miles.  I drained the pan and wiped it with a shop rag.  I would have been happy to have eaten my supper out of that oil pan.  At the last timing belt change (460K miles on the engine), you could still see the factory grinding pattern on the camshaft.  I'm convinced I don't need oil treatment.)