Cost for a turbocharger rebuild/replace

Scott & Heather · February 01, 2018, 01:12:57 PM

So my 8v92 has been suffering from low boost and we are now monitoring it constantly and it's constantly low. Where the hot side clamps and connects to the cold side has a leak so it's all black there and the top of the engine bay above the turbo is black with soot. The soot has actually been coming into the coach through the access hatches and turned my carpet under there black. I resealed the hatches with spray foam so that problem is resolved but the turbo still needs RR. The fins are fine, there isn't any play in the shaft and it spins freely, but that leak between the hot and cold side is causing me to lose some boost and I need to resolve it.

What kind of money am I looking at to replace or rebuild the turbo?

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Geoff · February 01, 2018, 02:00:07 PM

You don't need a rebuild. You just need to take the clamp off where it is leaking, clean the mating surfaces, and reclamp it. At the most, you may need a new clamp.

luvrbus · February 01, 2018, 02:50:51 PM

Scott. try Geoff method it may work for yu, but the TV8513 turbo on those engines were bad about warping the mating surface on the turbine side and most the time they need to be machine if it has been leaking for very long.A good rebuilt TV8513 with the 1.23 A/R cost around $750.00 watch the crap on Ebay,I buy my turbos from Tom @ www.turboresource.com in Lake Havasu good luck

Geoff · February 01, 2018, 04:43:47 PM

When I say clean the mating surfaces of the exhaust, you may have to use a file to get the plack buildup off the exhaust lip. Scott, you have a good mechanical aptitude. Look real close at the surfaces that mate together with the clamp.

--Geoff

luvrbus · February 01, 2018, 05:45:25 PM

Geoff,the way I read it Scott is talking about where the turbine housing mount to the center plate but I could be wrong

eagle19952 · February 01, 2018, 05:55:22 PM

these clamps ?

chessie4905 · February 01, 2018, 06:46:04 PM

If you are doing this yourself, when reassembling, use a little antiseize on the castings where the clamps ride to help them tighten and pull the pieces together. Use only a small amount to avoid excessive smoke when they first get hot.

Templar52 · February 01, 2018, 08:06:20 PM

What is the number on your turbo ?
Tv7512 ar .96 ?

Scott & Heather · February 02, 2018, 05:16:42 AM

Awesome responses guys thank you. I will take a photo today. I don't know the turbo number but I can try to figure that out too. Arrow is pointing to the area that appears to be leaking and there is a lot of soot on the hot part of the turbo housing right there. I've replaced the clamp but it didn't change anything:

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luvrbus · February 02, 2018, 05:45:04 AM

Since you bumped the HP up to 500 your turbo should be a TV8513 with 1.39 AR ,that clamp looks a little short to,when the clamp is tight there is about 1/8 to 1/4 inch gap.
That looks to be a after market turbo ,take the numbers and call Tom @ Turbo Resource and see what you have

buswarrior · February 02, 2018, 08:01:02 AM

If at first you don't succeed...

I like luvrbus observation, the mating surfaces may have an issue.

Did you disconnect the piping before trying your new clamp? The piping can hold it jigged wrong?

If this requires any further screwing around, it's a diminishing return game...

trade it in for a fresh one, and reset that clock completely?

happy coaching!
buswarrior

B_K · February 02, 2018, 08:22:47 AM

Guys that is not Scott's turbo! He has used someones photo as an example to demonstrate what he was talking about that is a photo iof a new or rebuilt turbo.

Scott if it were me, I'd go ahead and use Clifford's suggestion and get a turbo from Tom and replace it now during your down time.
I'm pretty sure you won't be disappointed.
Yes you can do as Geoff suggests for less $, but the same amount of work. (well actually twice the labor if you still end up replacing it afterwards!)

BK

chessie4905 · February 02, 2018, 10:28:09 AM

Those shouldn't be the normal leak points. If you clean or reclamp in that location, you should always loosen, at least exhaust pipe connection first, as if it is causing a bind, it will be difficult to get that location sealed, especially because of the small diameter compared to exhaust outlet diameter. On some mountings, you may need to loosen intake pipe also for same reason.

Geoff · February 02, 2018, 05:11:25 PM

I used to rebuild turbos when I worked for DDA. Part of the process in rebuilding is getting the exhaust buildup off the exhaust half of the turbo. In a shop, you should have a bead/sand blaster cabinet to remove the exhaust deposits off the center housing of the turbo. In Scott's situation, cleaning the mating surfaces of the exhaust pipe and turbo with a file is a DIY solution.

It could very well be that the flange on the exhaust is worn out or broken. There are new exhaust flanges available.

I do not understand the posts telling Scott to buy a rebuilt turbo. There are two many people on this board that don't mind spending other people's money. Scott has another mouth to fed. I am all for the cheapest solution.

B_K · February 02, 2018, 06:54:12 PM

Quote from: Geoff
I used to rebuild turbos when I worked for DDA. Part of the process in rebuilding is getting the exhaust buildup off the exhaust half of the turbo. In a shop, you should have a bead/sand blaster cabinet to remove the exhaust deposits off the center housing of the turbo. In Scott's situation, cleaning the mating surfaces of the exhaust pipe and turbo with a file is a DIY solution.

It could very well be that the flange on the exhaust is worn out or broken. There are new exhaust flanges available.

I do not understand the posts telling Scott to buy a rebuilt turbo. There are two many people on this board that don't mind spending other people's money. Scott has another mouth to fed. I am all for the cheapest solution.

Yes by telling Scott "If it were ME, I'd replace the turbo with a rebuilt one!" I suppose I am helping spend his $. But I did say if it were ME, and I also understand the difficulty of R&Ring that turbo no an 8V92 in an MCI in tight quarters (MCI are not as easy to get to as a RTS or GM) and the fact that Scott likes to do things once and be done with them not re-do and re-do things if it doesn't work the first time.
But yes Geoff you are correct it's his $ and I should not have pointed out IF IT WERE ME I'd rather spend the $ and only do it once!
Thank you for pointing that out and have a GREAT SUPER BOWL WEEKEND!

BK