Coolant leaking from circulating pump

[luvrbus]

I have a later model MP brass pump with the new style motor I removed my my MCI if you have trouble finding parts for your older pump this one should work and I will send it to you if you need it  

[chessie4905]

Yes, it's connected with flanges, however after removal, I would replace that piece of boss while you are there. From the pictures you can remove pump by removing bolts at one flange and disconnect other side by removing hose that connects line to other flange. Once out, you can remove other flange, New gasket, never seize on cleaned or replaced bolts.

[richard5933]

Yes, it's connected with flanges, however after removal, I would replace that piece of boss while you are there. From the pictures you can remove pump by removing bolts at one flange and disconnect other side by removing hose that connects line to other flange. Once out, you can remove other flange, New gasket, never seize on cleaned or replaced bolts.

Both flanges of the pump are mounted directly to flanges which are connected soldered to the copper pipe. There is no hose. The top picture is the one with the pump, and what may look like hose is the rubber insulation over the copper pipe.

The bottom photo of the water valve (says Honeywell on it) is the one with one flange and hose on the other side.

[richard5933]

I have a later model MP brass pump with the new style motor I removed my my MCI if you have trouble finding parts for your older pump this one should work and I will send it to you if you need it  

Is the pump you have also mounted with two flanges or does it use rubber hose?

[luvrbus]

Is the pump you have also mounted with two flanges or does it use rubber hose?

2 flanges connecting to 1-1/2 O.D. copper pipe.I think it is a booster pump not a circulating pump probably could be used for circulating pump unless it moves the coolant to fast I don't know what the GPM specs are 

[richard5933]

2 flanges connecting to 1-1/2 O.D. copper pipe.I think it is a booster pump not a circulating pump probably could be used for circulating pump unless it moves the coolant to fast I don't know what the GPM specs are 

What I've got is technically called a booster pump as well. Any chance you could shoot me a photo of what you've got? My email is posted on my profile if you need. Seems like what you have might be what I need.

[luvrbus]

What I've got is technically called a booster pump as well. Any chance you could shoot me a photo of what you've got? My email is posted on my profile if you need. Seems like what you have might be what I need.

Your Email is hidden and I cannot find a place for a attachment in board software 

[Templar52]

Booster pump or circulating pump is the same.  The Honeywell valve is a MODULATING VALVE. This valve open whent you need hot water in your heater radiator or defroster. The valve is connected to your thermostat. The pump help sending the hot antifreeze to the defroster and thrue the heater radiator.
You better change both of them. While you are in the same corner.

[richard5933]

Your Email is hidden and I cannot find a place for a attachment in board software 

[chessie4905]

The water circulating valve is connected to a gradustat which controls water temperature. The valve is controlled by air pressure, which is manipulated by gradustat.
My shop manual mentions to remove flanges or hose to remove pump. Maybe early models had hoses. I didn't see any seal kit for pump, other than replacement impeller. They suggest that if seal is or shows signs of leaking, to replace assembly. To me, that means pump assembly. The pump appears to be bronze, so good chance those bolts will remove without drama. Be sure to spray penetrant on bolts for a couple of days before to give it time to soak in and free up. Check condition of brushes while you have assembly out. They do list packing for water circulation valve btw.

[richard5933]

Your Email is hidden and I cannot find a place for a attachment in board software 

Clifford,
I did get the photos you sent and think what you've got will work.

I tried to reply via email and PM, but I'm having trouble on this end getting the electrons to cooperate. Just checking in to see if you got my replies.

[luvrbus]

Get me a shipping address you can have for the shipping it doesn't show any signs of leaking or corrosion,but you will need to repair 1 wire I broke off by accident when I picked it up 

[richard5933]

Get me a shipping address you can have for the shipping it doesn't show any signs of leaking or corrosion,but you will need to repair 1 wire I broke off by accident when I picked it up 

Sent via PM. Please let me know if you got the information.

Thanks again for your help with this!

[luvrbus]

I got the address boy that is a lot of numbers for a address will ship it out Friday when I go to town and it is 24v 

[richard5933]

I got the address boy that is a lot of numbers for a address will ship it out Friday when I go to town and it is 24v 

I'm told that there are something like 7 counties in the US that still use an older coordinate address system like we do. The letters & numbers in our 'house number' are grid coordinates, and the zero point in the system for us is a point near downtown Milwaukee.

Back in the days when our area was rural farm country and the roads had no names (or there were no roads, just dirt trails) the fire squad could find a location just by using a grid map. Theoretically if you had just the coordinates you would be able to locate our house even if you didn't know what the street name was, was town we were located in, or anything else.

The system worked really well for many years, but it has probably outlived its usefulness. Sure is fun when we try to mail order something and they only have four or five digits in their system for a house number.