New year... new problem :/

[chessie4905]

The only oil you'll get is a little from oil feed line. Rest drains into Bell housing and down to oil pan. There will also be about a cup of oil that will run out of the diode reservoir if you turn it upside down after removal.There is not a tremendous amount of oil up there spraying around when running. A gasket could be made from a piece of gasket stock and a thin piece of sheet metal. Get a mechanics stethoscope from NAPA or similiar. Pull off the metal probe end and use the tubing end to zero in on noise. You could pull alternator out a couple of inches to see the cup gear and driven little gear on alternator and inspect with a strong led flashlight. If there is a problem with the gearing, it'll be obvious. If they look ok, spin the small gear some, looking for roughness. If smooth, Push it back in place and reconnect. Just to check it, you can turn off battery disconnect and leave wiring connected. There should be enough slack. The oil line might need to be unhooked though.

[Geom]

Just got off the phone with Kevin. Had a good conversation, but the short of it is that he doesn't have time to drive out here to look at it. He's stacked up with a bunch of other work. He did say that if it was at his shop, he'd be able to work a little time in to look at it.

We played the "what could it be" guessing game, and his thoughts were (not surprisingly) the same as others have suggested here. It could be a lot of different things, but without being able to look at it himself, he obviously couldn't take more than a guess.

If the alternator hadn't stopped charging with the RPMs reading zero, I would've just risked driving it to his shop. He's only about 20-30 minutes from me. But considering my luck thus far, I'm hesitant to push it much beyond that.

The fact that it stops making the sound AND that it seems to only start making the sound when we shift into gear really throws a wrench into blaming the alternator as the sole cause. I can't think of a scenario where the alternator is toast, and would stop making noise after 5-10 minutes; or only start making the sound when it's in gear. Unless, of course, those are merely a coincidence.

So, I don't know. I guess my remaining option is to have it towed to his shop for him to look at.
Or I could try to remove that thing by myself. I lifted that thing when it was sitting on the bench in Farmingtom and it's a heavy beast.
So I might have to rig up some sort of pulley system to prop up its weight while I'm loosening things...

I am intrigued by Chessie's suggestion of sliding it out an inch or two and checking it visually before fully removing it. But my understanding was that gear-set had to be lined up just right before install and I'm not sure what pulling it out a couple of inches will do to that...

[chessie4905]

No, the alternator goes in one way, just mark it at top stud to make you more confident. The gear meshing issue is that 3/4 inch adapter that goes between it and and bell housing. It !ocates exact position of gear mesh and clearance at tooth mesh when running. If this adapter is off center some, tooth mesh could bind in one side of cup gear and be barely engaged on opposite side. You can see how this could cause failure of the drive system in a short amount of time. If when sliding back into position, gears don't want to engage, make sure mounting surfaces are parallel and wiggle slightly side to side and up and down. Just don't bull it. If it still won't engage, you can turn the little gear a touch and repeat. A pry bay may help working it back in by gently prying up between bottom of alternator and top of bell housing. Or, you could remove it, and if ok, either reinstall or make a temp gasket from two or three pieces of cardboard. Restart engine and check for noise from other areas. Then you might be able to drive it to mechanic. He can reinstall it while there.

[luvrbus]

That friggn alternator weighs 100 lbs watch it they can hurt you, use your tow service and tow it to Kevin he is just off I 10 plus he is big,strong and young 

[chessie4905]

Actually....103 lbs. Unless you've done some heavy work on your own, have tools and can get some help on getting it out and back in, just bite the bullet and get it towed. Hopefully, it is not that far. Especially after the financial catastrophe of the engine repairs.

[Templar52]

There is no way for you to remove the alternator alone.
We used a little engine crane with a special tool fixed to the positive bolt and a  kind of vise grip on the upper part of the casting. You may be able to take the weight of the alternator by lifting it by the bottom with the crane and with help pulling it out.

[Geom]

OK, you guys have convinced me, lol.
I was already hesitant trying to yank that thing out of there by myself, and seeing the comments above has removed any remaining doubt.

While I might maybe sorta be able to possibly pull that thing out myself, I might also make matters worse -if I drop it on top of the tranny housing, or torque/crunch/tear-up that gear-set under too much weight, or drop a 100lb chunk of metal on my feet 

So, towing it sounds like the better option.
While I would have liked to leave here under my own power (this thing has spent an inordinate amount of time riding proudly high on top of a landoll), it might make for less of a show overall.
... I still wonder if buying a landoll and putting the bus on it, full-time, might make a better (and more cost-effective) long-term solution 

[Templar52]

That will be good if you try someting before ring the towing.
There is certainly a garage with and old timer mechanic around your place.
Ask him to have a look with his stethoscope. He will tell you right away where the noise is comming from. In 27 years, I never came across a noisy alternator whent I put the transmission in gear......I often saw a 730 noisy whent I put in gear.....you probabely have two problems. The alternator is easy to check in a few minutes. There is a relay beside your voltage regulator. Check it . Don't give up !

[Geom]

In talking with Kevin, he's not sure if he has a replacement blank plate for that alternator.
He said he should be able to fashion one, if needed.

But just in case, and not sure if it matters, does anyone have an actual plate they'd be willing to part with?
If so, would you be willing to send it to Kevin's shop?
I'd, of course, pay the cost of such -just let me know how much and how to send the funds.

Thanks!

[luvrbus]

Detroit never made a 9 inch blank off plate for the alternator Kevin will need to make 1 ,he will need to remove the sun gear to make a flat plate work or have it cupped for the sun gear

[Dave5Cs]

George are you having any problems with your start batteries going dead. If your Alternator isn't working it shouldn't be charging the starts? Say hi to Kevin for me.

[chessie4905]

Mine still has the cupped gear in place. The block off plate is flat, probably because the centering adapter is still in place. The plate does not look like a custom one off job. Maybe a marine item?

[luvrbus]

 I have never been able to find the 9 inch cover I can find the one if you remove adapter that goes from 5 in to 9 inch on the older 71 engines I have bushel of those 

[Geoff]

My v-drive 6V92TA circa 1982 does not use an adjusting spacer.  The 50DN fits right on the flywheel housing using studs.  When I eliminated the 50DN I made a cover plate out of 1/4" steel using the gasket as a template.  If Geom has the same alternator and can use mine he should pm me.  It is a 24v 50DN.

Geoff

[luvrbus]

Some of the 50D used a 7 inch bolt pattern same as the compressor