Waste water adapters.....

[WEC4104]

Darn you guys! Everytime you start talking in one of these threads, I discover there is a new toy for the bus that I need.  Now it is a macerator that I have to add to the list.   Previously, I thought I was doing just fine with my dump valves and fittings (which are high enough that I have no problems).  Then I read this thread and I start thinking .... always dangerous.

Usually I try to dump my waste tanks before I return home so I don't have to worry about matters there.  But once or twice a year the situation forces me to empty my tanks at home. I have been using one of those wheeled portable transfer tanks you can buy at RV stores. I bought a larger one (35 gal?) so that I wouldn't need to go through the operation 4 or 5 times.  Let me tell you, the damn thing is heavy and dragging it around is no picnic.  Depending on the level in my tanks, I can usually empty both my black and gray with two transfers.  I get to fill the tank, wheel the tank, dump the tank, repeat that whole process a second time, and then clean up.  I'm can be looking at close to two hours, depending on what other stuff distracts me.

The place where I dump is a septic system connection point in my yard. It is 45-50 feet from the nearest location I can park the bus.  It is certainly more distance than I would think about snaking a 3"
dump hose.  They are both at roughly the same elevation, and I would have to break out a water filled hose or something to determine which was higher.

Now you have me thinking that a macerator would make life a whole lot easier. Back the bus into position, roll out the 50 foot hose, and throw the switch.  The macerator processed material would even be easier on my septic system.  Hmmmmmmmmm.

Who's got info brands/models/costs?  How does the macerator inlet connect to the tank?

[Hartley]

This is what I have, FloJet RV Waste Pump Kit

I Have tried one other brand, But next time ( after I wear out the 2 that I have. ) I will probably
go to an Oberdorfer Marine macerator as it's all metal and made to last 30 years.

You may be able to get a better price somewhere but here it at ;

http://www.campingworld.com/browse/skus/index.cfm/Outdoor-and-RV-Accessories/RV-Maintenance/Sanitation--Sewer/FloJet-RV-Waste-Pump-Kit/deptID=3:subOf=19:skunum=26125:src=TSC

Dave....

Oh.. And on occasion West Marine has a sale on the pump by itself that you have to adapt for around $99 cause thats what I paid
for the non-kit version. They come om 3" or 1 1/2" inlet, they both have the actual same size intake hole, Just one allows you to fit the 3" flex pipe over the outside. ( handy for impossible locations but prone to leaking if the hose checks out. )

They run on 12 volts @ 15 amps, Fused for 20 is best. About 20 minutes run before getting hot.

That's why I am thinking about the marine version that has a heavy duty motor that can run for hours if needed.

[H3Jim]

There is danger to your septic system when you dump your RV tank into your home system.  Septic tanks are designed for water and solids to enter at a reasonably slow rate.  All the solids are supposed to stay in the tank where they are broken down by bacteria. Normally after a toilet flush, all the solids just drift down while the water goes out the overflow into your leach lines.  Only water is supposed to flow out of the tank and into your leach lines.  Any solids getting into your leach lines clogs them up, and once clogged, they cannot be cleaned, but teh entire leach line system must be replaced - very expensive.

So dumping potentially hundreds of gallons all at once creates the possibility of stirring up the solids enough so some will go out the overflow.  Done regularly, will soon enough cause your leach lines to fail.

Also, dumping huge quantities of grey water disturbs the fermentation process / breakdown of the solids that are in there. 

You especially do not want to use any of the RV tank additives that stop the fermentation in the interest of keeping the smell away.  If your solids cannot ferment and break down, they will fill up your septic tank to the point where they can go out the overflow and clog the leach lines.

A typical septic tank is 1000 or 1500 gallons.  Putting a significant percentage of that into the tank all at once is a recipe for an expensive repair.

[Hartley]

The typical Florida tank is 750 gallons.

I only use all natural non-formalehyde non-stink stuff in my tanks.

The nice part of the macerator is the relatively slow flow with no large surge, Septic tanks have baffles designed into
the input end that allow solids to drop out and fluids to migrate to the top.

I jus the other day had the tank here at the house pumped. I looked and watched carefully looking for traces of the blue or green dye that I use. It dropped out very nicely and you could see the banding almost like a time log of when I drained my tanks.

The tank, lines and drainfield were inspected and were all clean and no solids migration at all even after 3 years of black tank dumping. If you want to know how a septic system works just ask someone who does them for a living. They know and will tell you what should and shouldn't go in there that might cause you a problem.

Never use a preservative, add active bacteria to your RV tanks each year, Let it sit and cook a little before you dump so that solids will disolve easier. It is recommended to move the RV in normal driving so that the tank contents will slosh around and solids will not clump into mountains.

Unless you have a curved drop pipe into your tank from the toilet, a Handy wash down wand can be used to add water and stir things up before you drain the tank. Some tanks can have a permanent wiggle-hose washdown fitting added to the tank that all you have to do is apply water pressure to the fitting and the hose in the tank will flap around and wash down and break up solids.

Works for Me....

Dave....

[Sam 4106]

Hi H3Jim,
Sorry, but I have to disagree with you about dumping a holding tank into a sepyic system. In our part of the country many of the campgrounds have septic systems and also have dump stations. Depending on the number of sites with sewer hookups they probably have larger septic tanks but they also probably have more users of the dump station. We put in a dump station at our home 15 years ago and have been dumping into our septic system regularly ever since. We dump as soon as we arrive home so that any solids are in suspension and have never had our 115 gallon black/grey combination full but our drain field was inspected by the system installer recently and he said there had never been any water past the first run of pipe in the drain field so I'm quite sure we have not done any dammage. Do you fully understand how a septic tank is constructed? Ours has a baffle between the inlet and the outlet so in order for solids to get from the inlet side to the outlet side they would have to go to the bottom below the baffle and back up to the top on the outlet side to get into the drain field. In your area you probably only dump into a city sewer system but next time you are at a rural campground ask them if they have a septic system and if they have problems with solids in their drain field.
Thanks, Sam 4106

[JimC]

Another RE: septic systems, I have what is commonly referred to as a mound system. In Wisconsin, they are for the most part replacing normal gravity septic systems when the ground is not optimal for a conventional gravity system.

The mound system has two tanks. The first tank breaks down the contents, and the second tank has a pump in it that pushes the contents under pressure through the field or bed, they do not rely on gravity, the entire field gets uses each time, therefore it virtually eliminates the clogging referred to.

There was a lot of resistance to this type of system at first due to cost, but they do work well because the mound, or ground where the Field pipes are laid  is trucked onto the site and the soil is perfect for leaching the contents of the field.

I am not worried at all about pumping into my system, if it were a conventional gravity system I could see where it "may" be a problem if the contents were not broken down.

Jim

[H3Jim]

I think a bigger tank makes for no issue.  I think its still a concern for a small home system.

Actually, the pipe that goes between the two tanks in the standard Cal septic tank is not at the bottom, that would be a disaster and encourage the solids to move through.  You want to keep them in the tank until they break down. The outlet pipe is just below the surface of the water with a down facing inlet.  That way neither floaters nor heavy solids get through to the next stage.  That is the way the outlet from the first compartment to the second works, and also the way the outlet from the second to the leach field works. 

Since the penalty for letting solids get to your leach lines is so expensive, I stand by my comments as something to be aware of when you are dumping.  I'm glad that it does not happen frequently and that at least several of you have had good experiences.

Thats also why the experts recommend to have it pumped out frequently, which many people also do not do.  Some of that may be to encourage business, but the rule of thumb out here is 12 years divided by the number of people in  the household is the number of years to let pass before pumping it out.  Also, its better to do a little unnecessary maintenance than to put in new leach lines.

And yes, I have a septic system here in the hills east of San Diego, and I grew up in Connecticut where we also lived on septic. I have seen my share of septic issues.  I don't dump my black tanks here, although I might if it was easier to get to. 

One last thing, its good to have water move through the system.  A well used system is generally in better shape than one that sits and is not used.  My concern is not too much water (a significant percentage of the tanks) all at once.

[WEC4104]

Thanks for all the good comments. For the record, I have the mound type system and it was installed in 1991 when the home was built.  1200 gallons sticks in my mind as the size of the settling tank, which is underground near the house.  From there, a pipe runs about 250 feet towards into the back yard where the mound is located. At the mound, there is a secondary tank and a pump. 

Last year the pump died (oops, almost said it crapped out.)  I was told 15 years out of one of these pumps is better than the 10-12 year average most people see.  The tank was also pumped out at that time.  The general condition operating condition of everything (except the pump) got high marks from the guy that did the repair and pumping.

My bus has a 75 gallon black and a 75 gallon gray tank, so the absolute most I could do would be 150 gallons. I know I have never had them completely full when I have dumped at home.  50-60 gallons total is more likely.  Based on some of the cautions here, I would be carefull about how much I fed it all at once. Being at home gives me the luxury of not having to rush it.