Silly question about checking air pressure on dual rear wheels - Page 2
 

Silly question about checking air pressure on dual rear wheels

Started by richard5933, August 25, 2017, 09:42:22 AM

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richard5933

Well, here's an update...

I do have metal caps on all seven wheels. Checked pressure and topped off, then put the caps back on. I agree that they help keep the air in the tires should the valves fail.

Problem didn't totally go away. I found a plastic tool on Amazon that allowed me to get the valve covers off through the hole in the outer rim. The problem then became trying to get the air chuck on the inner valve stem through the hole. The holes in the Alcoa rims on my outer wheels are small. So small it seems that no matter which chuck I tried and no matter what angle I used to hold the thing it was near impossible to get the chuck seated firmly enough on the stem to fill the tire. Getting the air gauge on was nearly impossible. Just wasn't going to happen without having grip strength beyond mine.

In the end I did a bit of Frankenstein by combining the angled end of a standard air chuck onto one of the Chilton chucks with a built-in pressure gauge. I know that they are not as accurate, but in previous testing this one has been within 3-4 psi of the stand-alone gauge. I through it in my tool kit to take on the road with me.

I also packed a small air compressor to take along, although I'm too happy with it. It can pump up to 125 psi, but it seems that the pump doesn't kick on to recycle until the pressure drops to below 95 psi. Of course, there is no enough air in the small tank to top off the tires more than about 1 psi. The only way to get it to cycle again is to burp the drain on the compressor's air tank to force it below 95.

Does anyone have a suggestion for a small air compressor that would be handier for filling the tires on the road?

Richard
Richard
1974 GMC P8M4108a-125 Custom Coach "Land Cruiser" (Sold)
1964 GM PD4106-2412 (Former Bus)
1994 Airstream Excella 25-ft w/ 1999 Suburban 2500
Located in beautiful Wisconsin

windtrader

Don F
1976 MCI/TMC MC-8 #1286
Fully converted
Bought 2017

richard5933

Got a gauge just like it. Unfortunately I just don't have the grip strength on the smooth chrome to push it hard enough to get a good seal.

Just can't figure out why the inner valve stem has to end at such an odd angle. Seems like there ought to be a better way to set this up so that the inner valve is as easy to get at as the outer.

Richard
Richard
1974 GMC P8M4108a-125 Custom Coach "Land Cruiser" (Sold)
1964 GM PD4106-2412 (Former Bus)
1994 Airstream Excella 25-ft w/ 1999 Suburban 2500
Located in beautiful Wisconsin

windtrader

Scan through the other products. There are a lot of them, some have different angles
Don F
1976 MCI/TMC MC-8 #1286
Fully converted
Bought 2017

buswarrior

They are your valve stems...

Down on all fours, you should be staring at the end of it, aimed straight out through one of the hand holes.

And the outer should be similarly pointing straight inward, centred in a hand hold hole.

If it isn't straight, make it so?

happy coaching!
buswarrior

Frozen North, Greater Toronto Area
new project: 1995 MCI 102D3, Cat 3176b, Eaton Autoshift

richard5933

Quote from: buswarrior on August 29, 2017, 07:43:43 PM
They are your valve stems...

If it isn't straight, make it so?

happy coaching!
buswarrior



Is there a recommended procedure for making them straight?

Richard
Richard
1974 GMC P8M4108a-125 Custom Coach "Land Cruiser" (Sold)
1964 GM PD4106-2412 (Former Bus)
1994 Airstream Excella 25-ft w/ 1999 Suburban 2500
Located in beautiful Wisconsin

Oonrahnjay

Quote from: richard5933 on August 30, 2017, 06:23:13 AMIs there a recommended procedure for making them straight?

Richard

       I've always been leery of bending or flattening the tip (the part that threaded for the cap to go on) by mistake.  ISTM that that would cause leaks, poor sealing of the Schrader valve, etc.  I've put a small box end wrench on the middle part of the stem but I always take great care bending any metal tube;  you just don't want a kinked area or -- especially -- a crack!
Bruce H; Wallace (near Wilmington) NC
1976 Daimler (British) Double-Decker Bus; 34' long

(New Email -- brucebearnc@ (theGoogle gmail place) .com)

PP

Quote from: richard5933 on August 30, 2017, 06:23:13 AM
Is there a recommended procedure for making them straight?

Richard

I think BW means to get the proper valve stem installed so they point at the hole in the rim. This way, no matter where the rim ends up on your bus (inside dually or what have you) the end of the valve stem is always accessible. I'm sure BW will correct me if I'm wrong  ;D

buswarrior

The stems will take a certain amount of bending, in order to re-align. They can also withstand being loosened at the nut at the base, a little swivel, and re-tighten. Yes, a tough job without a good grip.

As noted, don't screw up the threads.

And, failing that, a fresh set of the correct stems.

If you have found a work around, perhaps just wait for the next tire renewal, and then stand over the SOB's and demand they do it right, this is your personal ride, not some fleet vehicle...

happy coaching!
buswarrior
Frozen North, Greater Toronto Area
new project: 1995 MCI 102D3, Cat 3176b, Eaton Autoshift

richard5933

Decided not to risk breaking off a stem while in my driveway and took the bus back to Goodyear this morning to get help.

The tech came out and studied the problem for a few seconds, and then went in to get the adjustment tools for the stems. Took him about 30 seconds with a very large pry bar to get them lined up perfectly. Guess it's not how high-tech the tools are, just how well the person is trained to use them.

Richard
Richard
1974 GMC P8M4108a-125 Custom Coach "Land Cruiser" (Sold)
1964 GM PD4106-2412 (Former Bus)
1994 Airstream Excella 25-ft w/ 1999 Suburban 2500
Located in beautiful Wisconsin