Concrete garage floor

[kyle4501]

Dave5cs - good points, I added some of them to the original post.

Cliff, I used a laser to set the perimeter forms - they are within 1/16"

Since I usually do everything myself, I don't have much experience with contractors.

Was done in a single pour

Problem with the drain hole is I have done a lot to eliminate water from under the slab. I think I can saw a slot with the bottom sloping to the side drain & just squeegie the water out if there is a puddle

This! Just had a 50' x 60' bus barn poured.  Perfect. Used lasers to set board foundation for pour. Paid $6. 50 per foot for 3500psi concrete and 6" deep. Spend a little money and hire a lawyer and sue the turd! Take his truck and sunglasses.

You can't get anything out of a naked man's pockets - his truck ain't hitting on much and, as I found out after the fact, his tools are all borrowed.
I didn't get the correct things in writing - therefore I have to accept some responsibility. At least I don't have to deal with lawyers.      Always been cheaper for me to leave them out. . .

[luvrbus]

You don't really want water getting under your slab and reaching the base by coring the slab,you seal (chauk) concrete to prevent that   

[rusty]

Be careful about draining water under the slab. Concrete is only as good as the base it is poured on. You don't want to get the base wet.

Wayne

[sledhead]

flat floor .. ya right !

the last house I built I told my  " floor guy " I wanted a 2 " drop to each floor drain in the garage I park the cars so I could wash them inside in the winter ( some of you guys do not know this .. snow and cold crap .. )

he said I was nuts ! that is to much . but it is the only floor in all the years of building that ALL THE WATER goes to the drain that gets on the floor .

best decision I ever made as all the other floors I have had installed the water has to go over the high spots in the floor to get to the drain and only happens if I use a push broom to due that

we used to use a por rock floor capping product to level out the floor in the old days 


dave 

[dtcerrato]

A "failsafe" way to level a slab as shown in the attached photo of our carport we (personally) poured last Friday is to set all the forms to your liking (I use a laser) in this case there is a 1" slope. Then using a vibrating screed across the top of the forms - it is what it is... There are mixed guidelines for moisture under slabs. Up north may be voodoo for frost heave. The photo looks to be "inside a building" but never the less - could cause problems. Here in Florida, no frost heave & plenty moisture everywhere. By the way the reinforcement in the slab in the photo is #5 rebar at 2' O.C. both directions @ 4" thick. The bus barn is 16" O.C. both ways with diagonal bars at corners @ 6" thick. 6" x 6" "roadmesh" or reinforcing wire is useless as a "good" reinforcement except for if the slab is ever demolished it helps in pulling out bigger pieces! The addition of "fibermesh" - "helps" but in itself is useless. Like most of our bus work - if you want it done right, doing it yourself or someone you can trust, ASSUME NOTHING.

[bevans6]

I'm curious if a self-leveling pour of concrete on top would work, or if it would be too thin and fragile at the edges, or not bond to the existing?  I've seen that used to level in basements.

[dtcerrato]

It works great & is done all too often. Use bonding agent and the proper mix that will "feather" to nothing. A thin set may be required for edges but pay attention to "max." Thickness. Just read the label - there are products for that. Keep in mind that the built up section won't take a beating like the solid slab...

[kyle4501]

I'm curious if a self-leveling pour of concrete on top would work, or if it would be too thin and fragile at the edges, or not bond to the existing?  I've seen that used to level in basements.

I have had mixed reviews about that - especially when you let them know you are parking a diesel pusher on it. Then there is the price - at least as much as the original pour. . . . 

I'm going to cut the floor to put in a small drain & see how that reduces the pond dry time (It hasn't dried yet).
I'll shim up where the coach tires are so it will be level.
I'll get one of those heavy duty mats that are for wet areas & then decide what next.

[kyle4501]

Like most of our bus work - if you want it done right, doing it yourself or someone you can trust, ASSUME NOTHING.

AMEN

[Dave5Cs]

Dan you would of loved pouring Concrete with us in Colorado Springs. 8% CC and all hot water in, 5 bag mix. then before leaving had to cover with 10 thick insulation blankets 25 feet wide up to 50 feet long pinned to the ground with a heater with fan running all night at an opening in the blanket. If you didn't and it dropped to -10 or less the water would crystallize and the slab would be toast and you would have to tear it out. Most days if it was commercial we would come back in two days and use a seated whirlybird to finish the top smooth. Glad I don't live up there anymore. LOL

[lvmci]

Hi All, just finished putting CHAT, small gravel, I created a driveway on the side yard, where the  bus will sit behind the fence in the back yard. I've  seen this used in horse arenas and unpaved lots. Landscaper compact/pounded it down and watering it to compact it further. Next is putting a gate in the wall and moving some large pretty cacti to where the lady wants them, then can walk out to the back yard to work on the bus whenever I  can, lvmci...

[Dave5Cs]

Hey Tom,
take it from someone who knows. Get elbow protectors and knee pads as well as rubber mats to put under bus when you need to be under there. We have small gravel in the ranch yard and it hurts this old man crawling around under there. I put down a couple of pieces of plywood with a roll out rubber pad on top of it. LOL 

[dtcerrato]

I'm spoiled with a pit, by the way that's a great way to fix the depression in your slab and its the perfect area for a pit! :-).
Yea Dave we poured big in Michigan winters & yes lost a couple to severe cold, concrete cures like Styrofoam if it freezes before cure.
We've used all the trick ingredients like hot water, chloride, accelaguard, hay, straw, heated blankets, etc. The bridges were a real bear to insulate...

[B_K]

We've used all the trick ingredients like hot water, chloride, accelaguard, hay, straw, heated blankets, etc.

What no sugar?
   BK 

[lvmci]

Thanks Dave, good idea! Spent the day at G&R bus shop, went in to replace an air tank drain pull, air dryer was bad, they are knowledgeable and more then fair,  any one needing repairs, coming thru LV, I would recommend Gilbert and families shop, behind the Palms hotel, lvmci...P.S. $50 each for DOT right angle brass fitting!