Does Size Matter?

[boxcarOkie]

Good to hear from you again, BCO

Thanks, it always nice to know that you have been missed.  As you are aware, I am not always welcome in some social circles and as I am no longer wanted by the FBI (I have registered as a convicted used bus owner) and they now know where I be, I decided to post something.

For what it is worth, I decided to go with the ball bearings.  I did check out the nut size and all that, but the third one was bigger than the other two, so I got on the phone ..... oh well, you know.  

No word from the doctor at this time.

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[J_E]

BCO,

That's the first I've heard of a tire being junk if driven on with low pressure, but considering how much(litttle) I know bout heavy duty vehicles like the otr trucks and buses, that is unsurprising.  It's also mainly why I am a member here, to learn as much as I can from those with more experience and are more knowledgeable about these vehicles.

A metal cap with a good o-ring is an accepted fix for a leaking schrader on a refrigerant system, but that is probably because of how much more is required to replace the schrader valve in that sort of system.  If I didn't have the means on hand to fix a leaky schrader on a tire, and all I had was a metal valve cap, it would serve until I could replace the core.

For your mixing question, use what you've got.  It's not really rocket science, throw the small one in and shake it up.  If it doesn't seem to work, drop the bigger one in and give it another go. Just make sure whatever you use is clean.  I always preferred bb's for keeping metallics mixed in smaller 1 or 2 oz containers.  The larger the container, thicker the material or the deeper the solids on the bottom, the bigger the item used to keep it mixed.  I would shy away from using a ballbearing in a container with a smaller opening that you would pour from.  You run the risk of pouring the ball bearing out, or blocking the opening with the bearing.  The second would get more annoying as the container gets emptier.

[luvrbus]

You get a double whammy on bus tires the valve stems (schrader) will leak and I have never been able to control leaking with a cap. The stem is installed with a nut and 2 thin rubber gaskets that start leaking over time if they are disturbed when checking air pressure air it up and check both.   

[Dave5Cs]

Someones Disturbed!

[boxcarOkie]

BCO,

That's the first I've heard of a tire being junk if driven on with low pressure, but considering how much(litttle) I know bout heavy duty vehicles like the otr trucks and buses, that is unsurprising.  It's also mainly why I am a member here, to learn as much as I can from those with more experience and are more knowledgeable about these vehicles.

Odds are if you run it low, you will blow it, then it would not be a whole lot of good to anyone ... wouldn't you agree.  Kind of like an Ice Berg, nine times out of ten, what is going to get you is well hidden below the surface.  But don't take my word for it, research the information, you can find it just about anywhere.

"One of the most common causes of tire failure is under-inflation  Tires that are underinflated experience excessive flexing in the sidewalls which causes them to run dangerously hot, especially at highway speeds during hot weather. The buildup of heat can lead to tread separation or a sudden blowout. The underlying cause here may be lack of maintenance (not checking the inflation pressure of the tires regularly) or a slow leak that has allowed the tire to lose air.  The main responsibility for preventing this type of failure is squarely on the shoulders of the vehicle owner."

http://www.aa1car.com/library/tirefail.htm

Have a good weekend.

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[boxcarOkie]

Someones Disturbed!

Get a rope!

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[windtrader]

I'm so confused, had to read the original post to see what is on topic. Since it was about batteries, here's my daily report.

With the new house and starts, both from different companies and different specs, I completed making the inverter/charger adjustments for the house bank. The alternator is the primary source for charging the start bank.

HOUSE - Interstate GC2, 6v deep cycle 210Ah. Bulk 7.2v/28.8v, Float 6.7v/26.8v
START  - Napa GRP31, Model 7237. 12v 950CCA, Bulk 14.6v/29.2v Float 13.4v/26.8v

Since bulk and float voltages are similar between the two banks, my feeling it's fine for the inverter to charge both banks if connected. Charging the start bank with the alternator seems fine.

Charging the house bank with the alternator through the bridged switch seems acceptable too. Even though the voltage regulation is single stage, I'm OK with it connected to the house as most of the time, it should be only floating them since the regulator sends both house and starts the same 26.8 float voltage. If house batteries were often low and should be charged via 3 stage, I'd have to rethink this one.

The optimal values for the house and start bank are not exactly the same but close enough for me to give it a go and watch how they perform.

Based on how the house bank with be drawn and charged (solar panel coming) and via inverter as needed (rather avoid using the genset), there won't be much need to connect both banks. then again, as stated above, based on my expected usage, I'll likely keep them connected for the benefits mentioned earlier.

[TomC]

AGM batteries have a maximum of (12v batteries) 14.3 volt on charging (at 77 degrees)-amps don't matter. Then bulk at 13.3 (resting charge). A normal alternator can do this also. I have never had a problem charging my AGM batteries with the solenoid closed connected to the giant 50DN alternator. Like everything else, you just need to keep an eye on the volt meter. Good Luck, TomC

[luvrbus]

Ok with 6 -8D's Lifelines at 70% how long would you need to charge the batteries back to 100% capacity at the float charge with a 270 amp 24v alternator  

[Jon]

Battery makers sell a lot of batteries to people that choose to ignore the charging voltage values.

Each type of battery, lead acid, AGM, Gel has it own charging protocol and some are more sensitive than others to those stated values. Mixing batteries of different ages in a bank of batteries is a definite no-no, and I can only imagine how bad it would be to mix types such as start batteries and deep discharge as Wind seems intent on doing.

[Jon]

Ok with 6 -8D's Lifelines at 70% how long would you need to charge the batteries back to 100% capacity at the float charge with a 270 amp 24v alternator  

I have no clue if only applying a lesser charge would bring a set to 100%, but I think the bus alternator puts an adequate charge into the 8D batteries at the 27.7 volt output to allow them to approach a 100% charge. Then when the inverter has shore or generator power it will provide the 100% charge.

I think the typical alternator with a conventional voltage regulator is set so it doesn't fry the batteries because if you keep applying the 28.4 volts of a bulk charge and never going into float it won't be long before those batteries are ready to pop. Add in hot temps due to outside ambient temps or because they are not located in a cool area of the coach and even 27.7 volts might be too great.

[luvrbus]

Jon, that is about the same that LifeLine is telling me the chassis alternator will never bring the batteries up to 100% capacity. 
So I installed a separate 160 amp 24v alternator with the 4 stage Balmar regulator,the inverters will charge the bank when on shore power or generator power.
Buying 6-8D Lifeline batteries can get into the wallet in a hurry and my luck with AGM batteries has not been that great over the years   

[Dave5Cs]

Clifford if you turn the clawfoot tub over on top of the batteries it should keep them a lot cooler and then they won't have that problem, Just sayin

[Utahclaimjumper]

  Jon,, it's NOT like putting water in a bucket until the bucket runs over.. Batteries have an internal resistance and when charging this resistance INCREASES as the charge increases,, when the two forces balance the battery is full.. An unregulated charger CAN over charge a battery,,and because the battery is RESISTING this overcharge,, the battery gets hot and the damage begins..>>>Dan ( This high resistance in the final phase of charge explains why the last few percent of charge takes so long to achieve 100%)

[luvrbus]

Clifford if you turn the clawfoot tub over on top of the batteries it should keep them a lot cooler and then they won't have that problem, Just sayin

Wise @$# I am trying to forget about that tub