Removing wheels for paint

[chessie4905]

That bus has hub piloted system from factory. At that time, either system was available. As it being a city bus, those rims are probably a lot thicker metal than on a highway bus.

[j.m.jackson]

Here's the answers on torque and adjusting brakes:

[j.m.jackson]

Checked front and back for cracks, they're clean. The 243 layers of paint on them was a ton of fun. I tried oven cleaner (which took off the top silver and a few more coats) and paint stripper (took off a few more coats, but left the underlying remaining paint gummy). In the end, i went at them with a needle scaler, and that was definitely the way to go.

[windtrader]

I'd like to paint steel wheels too. Thinking about doing in place by masking and blasting old paint off. With clean surface, paint should stick fine. Should I worry about blasting media getting into places that will mess up later?

[j.m.jackson]

With drum brakes? I wouldn't think so. No worse than driving on a dusty dirt road.

[windtrader]

Yeah, can't get too lazy though. It's not that much to at least get the wheel off the hub and strip and paint wheel.

[j.m.jackson]

It's been a good experience for me, tho,  to get the wheels off and make sure I have what is need to do so. Ramps, blocking, 20T jacks, etc.

[buswarrior]

In the blocking picture, I'd be running the blocking the other way.

the axle beam represents the first layer of the crib, the first layer of cribbing should go perpendicular to the axle beam, and then so on.

Cribbing style is to defend against motion and tipping off the pile.

If the coach moved fore and aft in that pic, it will topple fairly early in the motion. Wood in other direction, it would not.

The pursuit of excellence in safety matters keeps us all alive to tell fibs at the next gathering?

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[j.m.jackson]

The cribbing is supporting the two jacking points in front of the axle beam. The four bolt heads on the plates are embedded into the cribbing, and the rear wheels are thoroughly chocked. I'll adjust the slack in the brakes tomorrow and reinstall the wheels, then onto the rears.


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[j.m.jackson]

Or maybe I'll get on top and scrub it down to ready the last section for paint. So much good work to do.


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[j.m.jackson]

Got the painted wheels back on, and then touched up the paint on the studs and lugnuts afterwards:

Had an interesting thing happen. I had the bus running at high idle for about 10-15 minutes while i was pulling out the cribbing (requires me to use the airbags to lift the bus off the blocks). After i finished, i turned off high idle, and revved the engine a few times. The first time i went to the governor, it stayed there for a few seconds (maybe 5) after I released the pedal. I didn't reach down and pull the pedal up, it was up from what I could see. After that, it was fine. I wonder if I had some oil pooled in the blower or intake somewhere. Just thinking out loud.

[buswarrior]

What kind of throttle linkage is between the pedal and the engine?

Cable? Air?

Something sticking, that you want to lubricate, or a spring that is weak that you want to replace.

Rule out the linkage bits before the hairy scary "stuck rack" scenarios play out.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[Jim Eh.]

If it is an air actuated throttle perhaps it was just at that pressure to activate but not quite enough to back off without some lag?

[j.m.jackson]

It's an original cable throttle. I'll disconnect it at the engine and see how 'stiff' it is.

[Charles in SC]

I thought I would put my two and a half cents in. First off it is looking good! I have had some experience with with these things. I would probably wait until you have access to an impact wrench it do the rear. They are harder to get to with a socket and bar. An impact with the proper air delivery will make a 10 minute job of it. When I had the tires put on I noticed that the wheels were not all the same part number. They all worked as the differences were very small such as a little different hand hole size or different valve stem placement etc. It might be good to make a note of these different part numbers in case you need a wheel at some point in the future. The type lug nut on the front wheel are easy to mess up when removing a wheel. I always seemed to mess one up every time the wheels came off. I would keep a couple of extras handy. I used to get them and most every thing else I ever needed from Luke at US Coach.
While you have the wheels off you might want to think about new shocks. I think they are pretty old.
I am only responsible for two layers of the paint on the wheels. The other 241 were on it when I got it. If you want to get the wheels blasted call Toby at Blastek 864-266-8841. He is over near me and can do soda or sand. With soda I do not think you need to take the tires off. When you clean and repaint you might need to rebalance them. Also I guess you know not to paint the surfaces that mate to the drums or other wheels.
On another note if you check out Yellow Tag auctions on the web they have a large hydraulic floor jack that you need. The bid on it the other night was $20. Yellow Tag is located on Hwy 221 between Spartanburg and Chesnee.
Good luck and keep at it!