Bus won't start, just clicks

[Scott & Heather]

I've been struggling getting our coach to start lately. It tries to turn over but can't quite do it so all I get is the "attempt". Initially I'm sure it was because the 2awg cable from the positive post in the engine to the starter was broken at the ring terminal. So I took it out and installed a brand new cable yesterday. Clean terminals and everything. I also replaced the battery cables in the battery compartment and cleaned up all the terminals in there. Batteries are 3 year old twin group 31's. Do I just need to bite the bullet and get two AGM 8D's? Is an 8v92 just too much for twin 31's? FYI, it's almost 100 degrees here in Iowa. Vey bottom of post I inserted a video of the engine while attempting to start it. Starter is good, as soon as I put jumper cables on one battery from my truck to the bus, she starts.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XWQrFVFQtuw


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[Beesme]

You could have batteries load tested at any auto store . I use 3 group 31 on my 8v92 . You wanna make sure you have full power or you can lose your starter real fast .

[Branderson]

Do you have anything connected to your batteries that shows how much charge it has?  It sounds like if you can start it when connecting jumper cables, then one of your batteries isn't holding a charge.

I recently ran one of my starter batteries low and the other one was fully charged.  I barely got it to turn.  I had 25% charge in one of them and 100% in the other.

Like someone else said, looks like your best bet is to get the batteries checked.

[PP]

Definitely have your bats checked. One may have dropped a cell. I had 8 D's before I went to the 31's and had to replace one at less than 2 years because it dropped a cell. Then Napa wouldn't honor any kind of warranty because they said they were commercial batteries and they don't warrant commercial bats. On the road and over a barrel. Hopefully it's something simple and easily remedied.
Will

[John316]

I'm guessing it now has nothing to do with your batteries. Check your starter. When the starter solenoid starts to go bad, it will do that. So next time take a rubber mallet, have your wife push the starter button while you go smack that starter and starter solenoid silly. Most of the time that will do it.

Then I will sell you a rebuilt lightweight 24v starter that you can put in there. I have one on my shelf that I would like to have gone

[Jon]

This is just a reference point but on my 8V92 I had 4 group 31 (Delco 1150) wired for 24V for starting. I don't know your battery location but I do know I had to use lead acid instead of AGM because of the heat in the area adjacent to the engine. Gel and AGM batteries cannot handle the heat as well as the lead acid.

[thomasinnv]

Scott I would definitely load test the batteries and go from there. Where in Iowa? I am sitting in a rest stop in eastern Iowa pointed in a westerly direction at the moment.

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[luvrbus]

Looks like he has the cheap screw on posts on a stud post battery those are nothing but trouble.If you come this way and I am at home stop and will install you some real cable terminal ends 

[Scott & Heather]

Batteries both check out at 13.5V. I have chargers for both of them and the digital chargers are telling me that they are fully charged and are float charging right now. I took the advice and had wife press starter while hammering on the starter and solenoid body. No dice. I can guarantee it will start as soon as I jump one of the batteries with my truck. So it's like two group 31's don't have enough oomph. How would I for sure determine if it's my solenoid? The solenoid engages every single time because the engine attempts to turn over but it can't quite make the revolution.


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[Scott & Heather]

Cliff, those posts are built into the batteries. They won't come out


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[robertglines1]

where cable clamps on battery post end.   Clean them they are notorious for corrosion.  makes sense if when you hook up jumpers you are completing a weak connection.

[bigred]

I Excuse me for saying this Scott,but you didn't get any cables misdirected did you? From what little I know ,and that is very little,the starter is 24v .If the bus starts when you jump it it kind of makes me think U R loosing your 24V and it is trying to start on 12V.

[buswarrior]

Voltage and chargers happy doesn't help in this situation.

You don't know if there is any muscle behind that voltage.

My money is on a bum battery.

Get one of those old fashioned testers to give you an idea.

https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-BT-100-Battery-Load-Tester/dp/B000AMBOI0/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1500510101&sr=8-8&keywords=battery+tester

$20.68

Minimize your starting attempts until a solution is found, as noted, this is WAY hard on the starter.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[Melbo]

A simple multi tester on the out put will tell a bunch.  Put the multi tester on the output cables and try the starter and see what it drops the voltage to.

HTH

Melbo

[Scott & Heather]

Ok I can put a multi meter on it tomorrow. Thanks for the tips here. There isn't a smudge of corrosion anywhere. New cables, wire brushed stud terminals until they gleamed. Checked and triple checked all connections in battery box and at starter. Something else is amiss.


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