Ran the batteries dead for first time
 

Ran the batteries dead for first time

Started by Branderson, June 29, 2017, 09:37:02 AM

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Branderson

Maybe one day I will be able to not start a thread off by saying hey guys I'm new.....


So my bus is at the house as we prepare for the 4th camping trip.  I drove it from storage last Sunday.  I went to start it and the engine did a 1/2 turn....batteries dead.  Now I charged both batteries over night and they are 100% and I will try to start it when I get home from work today so hopefully things are back to normal.

I'm trying to find out how/why I drained the starting batteries.  For some reason when I drove it home last Sunday, I was completely out of my rhythm.  I even forgot to place the blocks under the axles!!  So when it wouldn't turn over, I noticed that I left all the switches on above my head.  Assuming most are in the same location, I have about 6-8 switches that I flip over and an on/off button above my head on the panel that gives life to the inside of the bus.  I said ahh that must have been the reason!!

Then I started to think about it.  Leaving those switches on should only kill the house batteries right??

My main power lever that is connected to the starting batteries was turned off.  I don't know how I killed the starting batteries.  Unless leaving those switches on does in fact pull from the starting batteries somehow.  Also, one other issue is when I started it on Sunday, I noticed just a very slight lull in starting but then I drove it an hr to the house.  Wouldn't driving the bus for an hr recharge starting batteries?

I hope I was able to explain this well.  My hope is that I'm wrong about the above switches only connected to the house batteries b/c that would be one incredible coincidence.

-Brad
- Brad

Gary Hatt - Publisher BCM

Brad,

Even with the master switch off on my MC-9 there was a residual drain on at least one of the batteries.  I recommend you buy a 24V trickle charger and leave it on the start batteries when you are shut down to keep them fully charged at all times. And of course, check the water every 1-3 months to ensure they do not run dry as that will kill batteries very fast.  That way there, you will always be able to move your bus at any time. 

Gary
1999 Prevost H3-45
Gary@BusConversionMagazine.com

Branderson

Thanks Gary, I was hoping that was the case.  I do need to look into getting a trickle charger.  I store it but start it once a month with no issues. 

Jeeze I've never checked the battery water.   :o
- Brad

Branderson

ahh I have red top optima starting batteries which has gel.  Thank god, I thought I failed to check something for over a year!!
- Brad

daddysgirl

What Gary said...and...
Do you have a small line running off one battery that provides 12 volts to a stud?
On my MC8, the 12 gauge line feeds stud 55. If anything is on stud 55 it will drain the batteries... without the charger Gary mentioned.
Andrea   Richmond, VA
1974 MC8 8V71/HT740 new in 2000 and again in 2019-

Iceni John

Maybe a small (less than 100 watts) PV panel on the roof to keep the start batteries charged?   A 30V panel will keep 24V of batteries nicely topped up, and if the amps aren't high you may not even need a charge controller.   Otherwise, Morningstar makes some nice small CCs that would be ideal.   A panel and CC would cost less than a set of batteries.

John
1990 Crown 2R-40N-552 (the Super II):  6V92TAC / DDEC II / Jake,  HT740.     Hecho en Chino.
2kW of tiltable solar.
Behind the Orange Curtain, SoCal.

plyonsMC9

What Gary said times 10.  A well setup trickle charge, and keeping an eye on the batteries, is a wonderful way to handle the MC9 and the battery rundowns.  IF you don't have time to setup the trickle charge, in the interim I used to disconnect the link between the 2 8Ds.  After doing that, I had no more run downs.  However, the trickle charger made a huge difference when - after several years - I got off the couch and installed it.  Batteries always lively and coach ready to go.  Even in the coldest of weather. 

Don't be like me and wait so long to put that in!!   ;D

Kind Regards, Phil
Northern Arizona / 1983 - MC9, 1995 MCI DL3-45

Scott & Heather

What Gary said times 11. I always turn off my master battery switch in the battery box for this reason. I could go a year parked like that without my batteries going dead on my MCI 9. On my DDEC 102C3, I can leave the master battery switches on without losing battery. Go figure. Definitely get a 24volt charger to float charge them when parked and you probably will solve your issue.


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Scott & Heather
1984 MCI 9 6V92-turbo with 9 inch roof raise (SOLD)
1992 MCI 102C3 8v92-turbo with 8 inch roof raise CURRENT HOME
Click link for 900 photos of our 1st bus conversion:
https://goo.gl/photos/GVtNRniG2RBXPuXW9

Branderson

Thanks all, the problem is when I store it, I don't have access to power.  I do have a battery charger but can only use it when I'm plugged in when camping.  I believe it was Gary that said even with the main compartment turned off, their bus draws power.  Since I left the overhead switches on for 3 days, it must have drawn power from the starting batteries.

Now I'm worried about the house batteries...... :'(
- Brad

plyonsMC9

Without any a/c power, then I would just look at disconnecting the battery manually.  Don't rely on the master switch.  I used to disconnect by hand / wing nut connectors, or a small wrench. E-Z.   A much _better_ idea would have been to use a battery quick disconnect switch.  Either works.  And I'm sure one of the folks will jump in w/a quick how to or picture on how best to set that up.

Probably not a bad idea to do similar for the house batteries - again assuming no a/c power for a trickle charger.

Hope this helps, Phil
Northern Arizona / 1983 - MC9, 1995 MCI DL3-45

PP

I found that if I leave the 2 coach batteries connected together, even with the main power off, there is some drain going on. I found that if I disconnect the 2 bats from each other with the main switch off, I have no drain on either of them. On one of the batteries, I use a simple thumb screw instead of a nut and leave the cable off until I'm ready to hit the road. I have 2 small 12V 1Amp trickle chargers set up to deliver 24V, but I only plug it in when I leave the batteries connected together with plans of moving again in the next few days. I have an outlet in the engine bay just for the block heater and the trickle chargers. Works for me,  ;)
Will

Branderson

Thanks everyone.  I got home last night and both starter batteries were fully charged and it started right up.  I then ran the generator w/ A/C to help charge up the house batteries and they work fine.  Looks like I'm ready to go tomorrow for the 4th. 

I'm going to look into the suggestions given.  I'm also thinking about getting a set up at the house so when I park it outside, I can plug it in.  I have all the adapters, I just need a 12g extension cord.

-Brad
- Brad

Zephod

When I bought my bus, there was a kill switch the previous owner had wired in. I never switched it off and the battery never went flat. Then I replaced a blown 5A fuse and the battery started going flat. I started using the kill switch and the battery still went flat. Thinking it was making contact with the body, I made a plastic holder for it out of cut off vinyl planking. That worked then stopped working. In the end I found the switch was so poorly designed that the bolted on contacts could swivel and touch without human intervention. My final solution to the electrical problem was a hand wheel nut from Lowes.



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Carpenter 3800 1994 on a Navistar 1994 chassis with a DT466 and alinson transmission.

buswarrior

I suggest that adding chargers without knowing what underlies is a band-aid.

You need to know where the power is going, and then YOU decide when or whether it will be allowed.

Fix or replace crappy cut-off switches.

It is YOUR coach, wire it the way YOU want it to work.

Every time you go near a battery and mess with tools or otherwise, you risk touching something to ground.

Have you ever seen the power of the sun up close? Minimize the exposure.

A PROPERLY RATED disconnect on the 24 volt, one on the centre tap, and a disconnect on the house batteries.

Walk away and call it done until next month's outing?

happy coaching!
buswarrior

Frozen North, Greater Toronto Area
new project: 1995 MCI 102D3, Cat 3176b, Eaton Autoshift

daddysgirl

Quote from: buswarrior on June 30, 2017, 11:26:54 AM
I suggest that adding chargers without knowing what underlies is a band-aid.

You need to know where the power is going, and then YOU decide when or whether it will be allowed.

Fix or replace crappy cut-off switches.

It is YOUR coach, wire it the way YOU want it to work.

Every time you go near a battery and mess with tools or otherwise, you risk touching something to ground.

Have you ever seen the power of the sun up close? Minimize the exposure.

A PROPERLY RATED disconnect on the 24 volt, one on the centre tap, and a disconnect on the house batteries.

Walk away and call it done until next month's outing?

happy coaching!
buswarrior


He has the same bus we have... model and year. Do you have, and might he also have a 12 volt line off of the right battery to front stud 55? If so, and 55 is connected to something, won't that kill the batteries, without a charger?
Andrea   Richmond, VA
1974 MC8 8V71/HT740 new in 2000 and again in 2019-