Welds that don't flow well
 

Welds that don't flow well

Started by Zephod, June 23, 2017, 06:07:27 PM

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Zephod

I've been doing some butt welding with 6011 rods. They should flow more consistently than they are. The amperage is right. I'm not moving the rod too fast. I see a very nice weld.

When I grind the weld down flush there are places under the weld where the rod has not flowed into the crevices well. It's the lack of consistency that puzzles me. It all should be fine. Right rod, right amperage, right speed. Surfaces are bare steel.



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Carpenter 3800 1994 on a Navistar 1994 chassis with a DT466 and alinson transmission.

brmax

Yes theres been something going on there pardner but!
Whats the metal, to get me inline here a bit. Maybe general mild steel or what
as its painted it looks now.
So are we using ac or dc and what amp setting with the 6011 ? Dia

Practice practice they say
1992 MC9
6V92
Allison

kyle4501

Prep is important.
try more amps & / or more voltage
then try less & compare the results. . . .
Life is all about finding people who are your kind of crazy

Get your facts first, then you can distort them as you please (Mark Twain)

Education costs money.  But then so does ignorance. (Sir Claus Moser)

luvrbus

He is long arcing the 6011 is a short arc rod ,if they are old stock they need to be dipped in water for a few seconds. ;D just me but I think he needs practice and a lot of it 
Life is short drink the good wine first

Zephod

70A AC 3/32 rod. Been dry stored. Steel is clean.
Not sure of the grade. It was angle and flat bought from Tractor supply.
Yes, it's now primed. I welded both sides.
It's the door to my ventilation unit.


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Carpenter 3800 1994 on a Navistar 1994 chassis with a DT466 and alinson transmission.

eagle19952

Quote from: luvrbus on June 23, 2017, 07:56:54 PM
He is long arcing the 6011 is a short arc rod ,if they are old stock they need to be dipped in water for a few seconds. ;D just me but I think he needs practice and a lot of it 

it's called dig rod...it digs thru paint and rust and pipe coating...you name it. can't dig with a long arc. push to feed farmer rod. we called it 1109 rod :)

Donald PH
1978 Model 05 Eagle w/Torsilastic Suspension,8V71 N, DD, Allison on 24.5's 12kw Kubota.

TomC

Arc welding is really hard. Get a wire feed welder-you'll be much more pleased with the results and the weld quality.
Tom & Donna Christman. 1985 Kenworth 40ft Super C with garage. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.

dtcerrato

Looks like you can use more amps (heat). The welds look too cold.
Dan & Sandy
North Central Florida
PD4104-129 since 1979
Toads: 2009 Jeep GC Limited 4X4 5.7L Hemi
             2008 GMC Envoy SLT 4x4 4.2L IL Vortec

Brassman

First he needs to know how to work a puddle -- and it makes wire feed soo much prettier.

bobofthenorth

This is farmer welder advice so take it for what its worth:
- 6011 is a genuine PITA to learn to use and really hard to get it to leave a nice finish
- I use 6011 on dirty metal and for root passes but I never finish with it
- as others have suggested - more amps and probably a bit slower travel - learn to manage the puddle

Bottom line - unless you have a good reason to use the 6011 ------- don't.  Its great for what its meant for but its sure as hell not a general purpose rod.

I do however quarrel with the advice to get a MIG.  A trained monkey can make a good looking weld with a MIG but for honest to goodness repair welding you need a buzz box. And just because the MIG weld looks nice doesn't mean its got any penetration or strength.  I've got both and so does any decent welding shop.  Not that I put myself in that category.
R.J.(Bob) Evans
Used to be 1981 Prevost 8-92, 10 spd
Currently busless (and not looking)

The last thing I would ever want to do is hurt you.
Its the last thing but its still on the list.

gumpy

Get yourself some 6013 rod and learn to run a proper bead with proper penetration (i.e. learn penetration and puddle control). Practice on pieces of scrap. You don't need a butt joint to practice. Flat plate will do just fine.
Craig Shepard
Located in Minnesquito

http://bus.gumpydog.com - "Some Assembly Required"

Jon

When those welds were made the noise was an irregular crackle. When it is done right the noise is almost always a smooth sizzle.

The guys in my shop used to weld thousands of tons of steel parts each year and when you walked by a welder his work sounded smooth and consistent. When a guy was making a lousy weld you didn't even have to look. You could hear it.
Jon

Current coach 2006 Prevost, Liberty conversion
Knoxville, TN

luvrbus

I don't care for the 6011 it's a combo AC/DC rod and I prefer DC for stick welding,you can tell he is long arcing the splatter is all over his metal,I prefer the 7018 it more of a drag rod instead of a push rod,the 6013 maybe the best rod for him since it is not a all position rod the 6013 is just used for flat welding    
Life is short drink the good wine first

lostagain

Started years ago stick welding. Then discovered wire feed MIG and used that mostly for a while. Now I am back to the buz box. More penetration, more control, more challenge, more fun. And it still looks like farm welding. lol.

JC
JC
Blackie AB
1977 MC5C, 6V92/HT740 (sold)
2007 Country Coach Magna, Cummins ISX (sold)

Zephod

Quote from: luvrbus on June 24, 2017, 06:50:34 AM
I don't care for the 6011 it's a combo AC/DC rod and I prefer DC for stick welding,you can tell he is long arcing the splatter is all over his metal,I prefer the 7018 it more of a drag rod instead of a push rod,the 6013 maybe the best rod for him since it is not a all position rod the 6013 is just used for flat welding    
I prefer the 7014 but... I have a pile of 6011 and 6013 to use up. One day I'll get to joining stainless to mild with my 312 rods but that's a different project.


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Carpenter 3800 1994 on a Navistar 1994 chassis with a DT466 and alinson transmission.