New Radiator Leaking

[brianzero]

Hi All,

After finally getting my new radiators installed, and road testing them for an hour or so, one of them is leaking at the bottom corner. Its 100% identified as coming from between the tank and core, and is probably a poorly laid gasket. I cranked on several of the tank bolts to add more torque, but this had little effect. It just squished the gasket out about 1mm, but the leak remained.

These were new constructed radiators, so whats the responsibility of the manufacturer and what can I expect them to say? Is there any warantee on this kind of thing?

[Geoff]

I'm sure they must have come with a warranty, but it is easier to pull the radiator tank, find the problem, and fix it yourself.  Did you install the tanks yourself?

--Geoff

[brianzero]

Yep, I did the install myself.

[luvrbus]

They are going to tell you it was tested before shipment I have had happen before and they did nothing.A local radiator shop charged me $25 bucks to replace the gasket the supplier cut wrong.I sent the gasket and the bill to the supplier nothing happen so I have never purchased another radiator from General 

[brianzero]

This was also a "general" radiator, so I thought somebody else might have had issues with one of their radiators as well. A couple of the bolts had even rattled loose and were laying on the radiator compartment floor, as though the assembler didnt torque them.

[luvrbus]

Unless they have changed business practices you are SOL with General 

[Tikvah]

This is an interesting thread... we need to always know who the good suppliers are.
I'm sure you paid a hefty price for a bus radiator.  I would expect the company to step up and take care of you.

[gmnut55]

Well the same thing happened to me. Installed one in my 4104 , in November with no issues and one a couple weeks later in a 92 prevost from general. Installed and filled and wouldn't you know at the top were they install a stiffener support it leaked. After contacting them they said it was tested before shipping. Well after having a fit, I tolded them we were going to post it on FMCA, this forum,  good sam and were ever else we could think of. Than they wanted us to bring it to a local radiator shop and get it fixed. The local shop charged $150 to pressure test and remove side to see were it was leaking. The shop refused to fix because now it would be their responsibility. They wanted us to strip it back to the core & ship it back, we said no ship it back whole and fix it ppd shipping. They did ,repaired in two spots
& returned. No issue's after 5000 miles, so have a fit and mention the prevost they sent to maine in November. They paid everything shipping, $ 150 to local shop. Good luck don't take no for an answer.

[brianzero]

Indeed, two radiators were $2550. The bolts having rattled out is a sign that the assembler was in a rush, or didnt care. How many more bolts are untorqued?

[Geoff]

I have used General Radiator twice, once 20 years ago for my RTS, and a couple of years ago for a customer's MC-8.  I just ordered the new cores and switched the tanks.  I do a very good job of cleaning and making sure everything is straight before installation and then fill them with water and pressure test them before I install them.  No problems.

--Geoff

[windtrader]

pressure test them before I install them

That seems to be the big lesson on buying a radiator. First thing out of the box, do a test and if an issue get on the phone in seconds. Much less wiggle room for vendor to direct the blame elsewhere.

[Iceni John]

Before I reinstalled my new radiator (Atlas Radiator in Santa Fe Springs CA made the core) I pressure-tested it by pumping exactly 10 PSI of air into it and leaving it for 24 hours.   When I was satisfied that there was zero pressure loss after that time I mounted the radiator in its support frames ready for reinstallation, but then re-tested it for another 24 hours at 10 PSI "just to be sure", in case the frames had slightly distorted it or something weird had happened.   (I'm so used to weird things happening that I'm slightly neurotic now and over-test everything!)   I didn't use water because Atlas said that the cork/rubber gaskets actually swell slightly when wet, so if it held pressure with just air then there's no question it will also hold pressure with coolant.   I used a Schrader valve threaded into the lower tank's 1/2" drain port, and I blocked the lower and the two upper connection openings with rubber condomy-things and hose clamps from Home Despot.

Atlas stressed to me to not over-tighten the tanks' bolts otherwise the gasket would be crushed too much.   I tightened until it squeezed out a millimeter or so, and that seems to be enough.   The lower tank's flange had been corroded and was still pitted after being powder-coated, so I smoothed its gasket surface with some silicone caulk.   I know that real men don't use silicone, but it did the job for me  -  I didn't trust the gasket to fill in all the flange's pitting.

Tightening your gasket further may make things worse.   I hat to say it, but you may need to R&R the radiator and replace the gasket.   Try to use the thicker gasket material, and pay especial attention to the corners by either slightly overlapping the gasket there or by sealing any butt-joint gaps with caulk.   Good luck!

John  

[Scott & Heather]

Perfect timing. My rads are in really good shape but the gaskets are leaking where do I purchase gaskets for these things? I want to rr myself


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[Geoff]

I bought a roll  from my radiator man.  Look on eBay or Internet.

--Geoff

[luvrbus]

I can order the Green premium 1/8th thick (width varies for me) from my local Napa store comes in 50ft rolls for a tad over 60 bucks.