Wife says it is time to put in AC :(
 

Wife says it is time to put in AC :(

Started by ccbmster, March 13, 2017, 08:45:12 AM

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ccbmster

I am pretty stoic, and have done without AC in my bus conversions for a long time, but my wife aint nearly as tolerant  :(

She now insists we put some AC for camping (still using over the road AC while moving and that works just fine).  She actually isnt asking a lot....mostly insistent on having some AC in the bedroom for sleeping and anything more than that would be gravy :)

So, if there is anyone in the FL-South Georgia area that is has been through this a time or two, I would appreciate someone looking at my set up and helping me determine the best way to go for my build. 

I know that the easiest would be to put RV roof air units in where the hatches are, but I am not sure the easiest is going to be the best solution given cost and efficiency.  I would really like to go with a mini-split, but pretty clueless as to where the best place to locate the condensing unit given everything else I already have in place.

Thanks in advance
86 MCI 102A3  Travel MI, IN, OH, VA, KY, GA, FL, and OK with most time spent in GA and FL 6V92 with Allison 740 Automatic

Lee Bradley

Going to have to give us some more information.  What spaces do you have available and where?

chessie4905

How about a rooftop unit with a Honda 3000is for a quick solution?
GMC h8h 649#028 (4905)
Pennsylvania-central

ccbmster

Looking more for the best solution (at a reasonable cost) rather than a quick solution. 

I have an Onan 4K on board already.

The "more information" part is why I was really hoping for someone that could lay eyes on it. But, I have some space I COULD free up in any/all of the bays. I have read about folks putting stuff in the area where the bathroom holding tank is located...havent removed that yet, and so that is space I would have no problem giving up once I could get that tank out. IF that would be a good place to put it.

Front bay drivers side has my propane set up in it. 
Middle bay drivers side has my holding tanks.
Back bay drivers side has my Onan4K and my house battery bank.

Front bay door side is just storage...currently pretty full with all of my dive equipment.
Middle bay door side has some stuff stored in it that I hope to sell of soon and part if it is taken up by a section of the fresh water tank.
Back bay door side has my automatic power switch, inverter, converter, and a slide out tray that is home to my tool box and various tools, extension cords, etc etc.

Bedroom is in the back, so that space currently taken up by the old bathroom holding tank would be close to where I want the AC, but I am just not sure if that is a good place to put it for other reasons and not all that eager to tackle getting that thing out either (which is why it is still there LOL)
86 MCI 102A3  Travel MI, IN, OH, VA, KY, GA, FL, and OK with most time spent in GA and FL 6V92 with Allison 740 Automatic

Geoff

I would say a rooftop is the easiest solution, and one AC is all that generator can handle.

--Geoff
Geoff
'82 RTS AZ

ccbmster

I forgot to mention that I also have a propane fired furnace on board, and I dont hang out where I need heat much at all anyway.  So, I only need a unit that cools and, I would suppose, that there might be some option to utilize the ducting in place for the furnace??
86 MCI 102A3  Travel MI, IN, OH, VA, KY, GA, FL, and OK with most time spent in GA and FL 6V92 with Allison 740 Automatic

RichardEntrekin

Geoff is giving good advice.

I would add that if you are using OTR air, then you could add two roof top units for when you are plugged in, since you don't need the cooling while driving.

You could only run one off the Onan 4K but the bride would be happy when parked in a campground.

Wire them so that the units are on opposite phases of the 50 amp connection.

The girls get to a certain age, and they do not like it hot.
Richard Entrekin
2007 Marathon XL II
Ford Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, Fl

Often wrong, but seldom in doubt

ArtGill

I do like mini splits. I have two heads on one outside unit. They are very quiet and efficient.  You mix the inside units using wall mounts, ceiling mounts, units with duct outlets, and floor units which sit on the floor and go up the wall.  The larger units require 220vac and and I solved that problem using an 120v to 240v transformer with an amp meter on the 120v side. My limited experience and moderate temperature and caused a max of 10.8 amps at 120vac. These units have not had any surge or peek in amp draw because they use inverter technology  I expect to get more data in the next several months as I get to travel some.  I have run the units off by inverter going down the road without any problems.  The outside unit doesn't require a lot of open space, but check with the specs of the unit you like.  I installed a Daikin system.  Systems and parts are readly available at "UR" United Refrigation stores nation wide.

I hope this helps some.
Art
Art & Cheryll Gill
Morehead City, NC
1989 Eagle Model 20 NJT, 6v92ta

TomC

3,000 watt generator will run a 13,500btu roof A/C. I doubt it could run a mini-split. Install one roof top 2/3 back from the front and you'll be plenty cool in the bedroom plus cool the rest of the bus at night. Good Luck, TomC
Tom & Donna Christman. 1985 Kenworth 40ft Super C with garage. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.

scanzel

Two roofs tops would be the quickest option since you already have holes. On mine I thought of adding a home style air conditioner in the back between my cabinets above the bed. Build a slide in shelf and have the unit vent out the back of the bus. Went with roof tops because I could not put a home style in the front living area.
Steve Canzellarini
Myrtle Beach, SC
1989 Prevost XL

buswarrior

You already enjoy "open air" camping, and know it works for your coach.
Don't take the lazy way by dropping roof airs into the roof vent holes.

You won't have vents anymore. Cut their own holes.

The roof air/mini-split/basement air debate is both a financial and a subjective decision.

Too many variables between busnuts, you'll have to make your own choice!!

Cheapest to buy is a roof air.
But they squat up there, pimples on the arse, raise the height of the coach, perhaps noisy in operation, most are simple and brutish power consumers.

Mini-split needs a home underneath, and somewhere to mount the evaporator upstairs. Many/most have soft start/variable power/inverter technology that they moderate their power surges and consumption. Reported as quiet in operation. No roof hole to cut and seal.

Compromise = busnut

What do you want to spend up front?
How much power do you want it to need, surge and running?
What do you want the coach to look like, in and out, when you are done?

happy coaching!
buswarrior



Frozen North, Greater Toronto Area
new project: 1995 MCI 102D3, Cat 3176b, Eaton Autoshift

Zephod

I don't have AC in mine. I just stay out of it during the heat of the day!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Carpenter 3800 1994 on a Navistar 1994 chassis with a DT466 and alinson transmission.

Geoff

I don't have a problem with roof airs-- I have three.  Mine are Coleman so they are not boxy plus they are painted the color of the bus.  Two are mounted over the old escape hatches and I cut a hole for the center one.  Since I installed mine many years ago, there are low profile units available.  Just paint to match and it will look fine.

--Geoff
Geoff
'82 RTS AZ

TomC

Dometic also makes basement units that just have to be ducted up. Roof mounts are by far the easiest. Use at least two-I have three on my 40ft. Good Luck, TomC
Tom & Donna Christman. 1985 Kenworth 40ft Super C with garage. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.

Zephod

One thing I've thought about is putting a very small window unit under the bus.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Carpenter 3800 1994 on a Navistar 1994 chassis with a DT466 and alinson transmission.