Removing Shocks and Air Springs
 

Removing Shocks and Air Springs

Started by BeastMaster, January 23, 2017, 06:20:48 PM

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BeastMaster

Friends, again I come hoping for your help and wisdom. I'm replacing the shocks and air springs on my MCI 1989 102C3. I am doing the front first. I have the chassis blocked up and the axle blocked with blocks and 20T jacks.
Having problem getting the nuts off the shocks. Have been using PB Blaster and impact wrench, nothing yet. Any thoughts?
I would like to replace the air lines with push in nylon DOT lines - any words of wisdom doing this.

Thanks in advance, Allan
1989 - MCI 102C3 8V92TA T740
Converted by Dick Lamb, Custom Land Yachts - 2005
Famous Margaritaville Bus
Star of the Duncan Family Counting FireFlies

bobofthenorth

A sawzall is your best friend on the shock removal.
R.J.(Bob) Evans
Used to be 1981 Prevost 8-92, 10 spd
Currently busless (and not looking)

The last thing I would ever want to do is hurt you.
Its the last thing but its still on the list.

DoubleEagle

All that is left to do is to add heat, otherwise cut if off, or twist it off with a strong impact wrench. Even a Class 8 bolt will snap eventually, with enough torque.
Walter
Dayton, Ohio
1975 Silvereagle Model 05, 8V71, 4 speed Spicer
1982 Eagle Model 10, 6V92, 5 speed Spicer
1984 Eagle Model 10, 6V92 w/Jacobs, Allison HT740
1994 Eagle Model 15-45, Series 60 w/Jacobs, HT746

Iceni John

I would prefer to use regular compression fittings for critical areas such as brakes and suspension, and use push-on fittings only for non-critical items such as accessories (seat, horn, door, wipers, air outlets, etc).   It's really important to ensure that air lines or PEX tubing cannot move at all where they enter push-on fittings, and they enter them absolutely straight without any angle.

John
1990 Crown 2R-40N-552 (the Super II):  6V92TAC / DDEC II / Jake,  HT740.     Hecho en Chino.
2kW of tiltable solar.
Behind the Orange Curtain, SoCal.

HudsonMarine

Being an industrial machinery mechanic for ,any years, one of our known tricks for frozen fasteners is bees wax. Just warm the fastener with a torch (propane, map, etc), and melt the bees wax into it. It works many time that penetrants fail.
"MAGELLAN"
1983 MCI MC-9
Detroit 8v71 300HP
Allison
Tampa Bay Area

BeastMaster

Thanks John. I was leaning that way also. I'll take a look at the solid lines and what shape they are in.
Concerning the shocks.... looks like the front shocks on an MCI 102 are mounted on studs or pins vice bolts. I can try and cut the nut, but afraid to snap the stud. I'll try heating the nut tomorrow. Thanks.
Allan
1989 - MCI 102C3 8V92TA T740
Converted by Dick Lamb, Custom Land Yachts - 2005
Famous Margaritaville Bus
Star of the Duncan Family Counting FireFlies

B_K

Allan yes heat is going to be your best bet. Might try HudsonMarine's suggestion of bees wax. (I have never heard of using it that way, but I learn something new every day and will be trying it in the near future!)

Also I agree with John on the push in fittings!

At some point or another connections in the push in fittings start to leak! Usually if they are in a moving/flexing environment they leak SOONER than later.

In some cases they can be fixed simply by correctly removing the air line and cutting of the end and re-inserting it.
Other times either the line, the fitting or both have to be replaced.

Very few of the push in fittings have been approved by DOT for the simple fact they don't last like compression fittings. So IF YOU USE THEM make sure the ones you use are DOT approved or don't use them on brakes, air bags or anything safety related.
;D  BK  ;D

daddysgirl

Beeswax does work well with heat. Just make sure you get it off while the wax is still warm...or you'll have to heat it up again.
It's also fantastic on skin abrasions.
Andrea   Richmond, VA
1974 MC8 8V71/HT740 new in 2000 and again in 2019-