Pd4106 how to reset tripped emergency shutoff switch
 

Pd4106 how to reset tripped emergency shutoff switch

Started by matzeinusa, November 19, 2016, 01:07:47 PM

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matzeinusa

Hi!
The engine on my bus doesn't start.
Previous owner said it could be the emergency shutoff switch and to reset it.
How do you do that?
I know there is some "thing" on the engine that needs to be pushed back and something pulled out but what's the actual way to do this?
(I know that was a very technical description lol)
Thanks for your help!
Matt

Utahclaimjumper

 Matt,, on the upper left corner of your blower ,between the blower and the intake plenum,, you will see a small lever with a small round counter weight on the end of it.. Pull it down until it locks into place and stay's down,,you are now ready to start it..  Make sure the emergency switch is in the off position before turning on the ignition switch.>>>Dan
Utclmjmpr  (rufcmpn)
EX 4106 (presently SOB)
Cedar City, Ut.
72 VW Baja towed

matzeinusa

Great! Thanks so much!!!!
If anyone has to do the same:
It's the thing closer to the air blower that goes up and down vertically.
Not the one next to it on the left that goes somewhat horizontally.
And once you pulled it down and up it needs to lock back down in place otherwise the throttle wouldn't go past 1000rpm and make the engine sound like it chokes when you hit the gas.
Once it's back down it lets the engine run normally...
Yay!!!
Thanks Dan!

HB of CJ

As a learning exercise perhaps you can spin the engine with the emergency shutter employed.  Listen to the distinct sound it makes spinning, but getting no air.  It will take two people to do this.  Then exchange places so both can hear.

Then reset the emergency shutdown flap as already described, then hold the push to stop lever out.  The engine will also spin but also not start.  It will make a different type of cranking sound.  Hard to describe.  Easy to hear the difference.

The point being that once one hears it, the sound memory might serve you well.  In the distant past, (around 1979) not knowing the sound difference by not being taught about it has had severe consequences.  Just another learned skill.

If you have an older Detroit Diesel 2 stroke with the emergency shut down shutter, knowing the difference in the sound MAY prevent lots of bad things from happening. Low probability, but there you have it.  Amazing what can happen.

luvrbus

Did you guys know Detroit sent a service bulletin in 1982 telling you use the spring loaded fuel rods and do away with emergency air shut down upon rebuild,they went into detail telling you how to remove the shaft and plug the holes where the shaft went through the housing fwiw 
Life is short drink the good wine first

Utahclaimjumper

  I also believe that "IF IT AINT BROKE DONT FIX IT" .>>>Dan
Utclmjmpr  (rufcmpn)
EX 4106 (presently SOB)
Cedar City, Ut.
72 VW Baja towed

luvrbus

Quote from: Utahclaimjumper on November 20, 2016, 06:17:08 AM
 I also believe that "IF IT AINT BROKE DONT FIX IT" .>>>Dan

Yea I know Dan but it was broke so DD did a fix same as with the blower drive,the shaft would wear the housing and allow dirt to enter the engine that is another reason they did away with the emergency air shut off   

Life is short drink the good wine first

TomC

When I had Don Fairchild in Bakersfield turbo my 8V-71, he removed the emergency shut off. As a nice sideline, now I had a spare wire switched on the dash. I used that to activate my water solenoid for my radiator misters.
My 1980 KW with 8V-92TA did not have an emergency shut off. It did have a manual shut down pull lever in case the electric over air cylinder didn't work-which I used later in life when the solenoid shorted out and shut down the engine. Good Luck, TomC
Tom & Donna Christman. 1985 Kenworth 40ft Super C with garage. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.

luvrbus

About everyone except Dan will remove those,they are a air restriction too I wouldn't recommend removing it with the old 2 screw fuel rods though  
Life is short drink the good wine first

eagle19952

Quote from: luvrbus on November 20, 2016, 08:16:40 AM
About everyone except Dan will remove those,they are a air restriction too I wouldn't recommend removing it with the old 2 screw fuel rods though  

The old timers have told me...(most are gone now)... that the two screw rack can be tuned finer and better and smoother ...
Donald PH
1978 Model 05 Eagle w/Torsilastic Suspension,8V71 N, DD, Allison on 24.5's 12kw Kubota.

Utahclaimjumper

  You can bet I know how to set them so they won't back off.>>>Dan
Utclmjmpr  (rufcmpn)
EX 4106 (presently SOB)
Cedar City, Ut.
72 VW Baja towed

luvrbus

Quote from: Utahclaimjumper on November 21, 2016, 06:06:23 AM
  You can bet I know how to set them so they won't back off.>>>Dan

LOL I have them back off before using the DD torque specs everyone has except you Dan
Life is short drink the good wine first

Utahclaimjumper

  What you don't have is drilled head bolts and safety wire.>>>Dan
Utclmjmpr  (rufcmpn)
EX 4106 (presently SOB)
Cedar City, Ut.
72 VW Baja towed

Oonrahnjay

Quote from: Utahclaimjumper on November 21, 2016, 09:10:37 AMWhat you don't have is drilled head bolts and safety wire.>>>Dan 

      A & E style ... I like it.
Bruce H; Wallace (near Wilmington) NC
1976 Daimler (British) Double-Decker Bus; 34' long

(New Email -- brucebearnc@ (theGoogle gmail place) .com)

luvrbus

Seems like a waste of time to me but not a bad idea, why not just use the newer fuel rods with 1 screw a lock nut ?
Life is short drink the good wine first