Opinions needed!

[daddysgirl]

Hi all!
I have a set up in mind to solve the starting issue in the bus. I would appreciate all of the opinions I can get.

So, just as I was thinking my (what I've figured out is a 42 MT starter) starter was dead, I thought I would try one more test before ordering a new one. I took my industrial jumper and hooked it up directly to the starter. Positive to Battery lug, negative to frame. Much to my surprise, the starter started clacking the instant I hit the switch.
Throughout this ordeal, I have replaced all the rear electrical relays, cleaned every stud...etc.

So on to my question. I'm going to leave the 2 new 8D's where they are, connected to everything EXCEPT the starter. I already removed the battery cable before I jumped the starter. I am going to get 2 group 31s and place them next to the starter, connect them directly to the starter only.

I am thinking if I can get the Governor back to full fuel position (hit the kill switch last year), and the air cylinder to remain open, I'll be golden.
Any thoughts?

[sledhead]

that might work but you may have a problem charging them and the org. batteries at the same time

dave

[daddysgirl]

I have a 24V trickle charger I was going to put on them. Just like the one on the 2 8D's.
BUT...I found something I haven't used, so I bought 2. The batteries are for Marine/RV use: 24VDC2 650 CCA 140 Reserve.
Anyone seen these?

[TomC]

650 each at 24v gives 1300 cca total. Two 8D's at 24v will give about the same CCA.

[luvrbus]

There is not much reserve on 2 group 31's CCA are just a few seconds of extra power burst. The 8D's will spin the engine a lot longer ,you need a good block heater with the 31's they drop like a rock in cold weather starting a Detroit

[Ed Hackenbruch]

If you replace the starter go with a 39MT.....you will be glad that you did. 

[daddysgirl]

I really, sincerely appreciate the feedback.

And of course, just as I thought I had replaced every harness in the bus... THE PROBLEM isn't the starter, necessarily. I was getting nothing at all. No click no whine, nada.
I had the 8d's (New) tested...they're fine. I went to reconnect them, and when I disconnected the negative cable that goes to the top, it had melted well enough to have bare copper occasionally hitting the frame. SH**.
So I replaced ALL of the terminals and cables for the 8D's. Just for the hell of it, I got in the bus, flipped the master, held up the kill switch, and the starter was clicking. Progress, even if baby steps

So now I need to see if I've lost prime, them maybe my baby will start?

[brmax]

Good day
So concluding a bat cable end is in need of re-crimping or just replacing? Its getting ready to roll for sure! and well deserved from your work.

I'm trying to understand better, if I might. So is this here -neg. terminal at battery, a post style or stud or does it connect say just above at the bus frame in battery compartment.

I understand these terminals can be a pain, I have had them some how get loose, from my own installs. Once they get a slight chance they make heat with the loose connectors getting worse and many times look great if just the arcing. My most often culprit find was the connections between the two batteries, there's no doubt you've made a great find and fix there.

Floyd

[daddysgirl]

Oh Floyd...Bless you.

I'm going to post what happened on a different topic, because of it's educational and safety value... but the 2 8D's are the post type, and yes, the negative cable goes up to a stud on the left side of the batt compt. wall with the other Yuge negative cable. The positive goes to the kill switch on the right with the YUGE cables that take the power throughout the rest of the bus.

[luvrbus]

I purchase 100 ft of 4/0 cable 50ft of black and 50ft of red with some Fusion type lugs with triple wall heat shrink my bill looked like a war debit lol next time I will ask the price before I say send it 

[daddysgirl]

Clifford,
Where did you get it?
I had 2 gauge cable, with all the ratings, but what came off was 2 gauge welding cable. When I questioned the difference, a had three diesel mechanics tell me it didn't matter. I shouldn't have listened when my instinct told me not to.

[luvrbus]

I got mine from Del City @ $6.00 a ft WOW

[daddysgirl]

I'll check it out. Lesson learned the hard way.
I suppose I'm going to have to decide between replacing the monster 42 or going with something like a 39. *&*%%***T%$#&(*!!!!!

[luvrbus]

I'll check it out. Lesson learned the hard way.
I suppose I'm going to have to decide between replacing the monster 42 or going with something like a 39. *&*%%***T%$#&(*!!!!!

The 39 gear reduction starter takes less juice than the older 42 so you can get by with smaller cables weigh the options 300 bucks for a new 39 starter or 600+ for new cables and terminals

[daddysgirl]

Well, when it comes to bus advise, I trust you. I'll see what the shop says when I tell them I want a 39.
I do have one other question, humbled and grateful as can be. I remember a conversation someone mentioned the 39's are not rebuildable, whereas the 42 (obviously) are?  If I could get the 42 off...I'd do it myself. But that ain't happening. And as for the cables, I'm going to get some welding cable (or the cable you were referencing) either way. I ALWAYS oversize wiring. Old habit.

And when I get the batteries reconnected, I need to take the starter cable off the frame stud so I can check the rest of the electrical system. There are a total of 3 large wires on that frame stud. I had just cleaned them up (NOT with brake clean) and wrapped them and heat shrunk a 1/4" thick tube on each of them. They had bare copper touching the frame. I'm hoping they are OK.
I went in and checked the 50DN harness I just made, and there was no evidence at all that they had been overheated. I've been painting the engine components as I go (with engine primer and paint) and there's not a speck of soot on any of those wires...so I'm hoping....