ddec codes

[jmblake]

I'm getting my cel and sel coming off and on, not steady on or steady off plus the low oil light comes on once and a great while, all fluids are full and seems to run fine. so I flashed the codes and cel was 16 and the sel was 43 and from what I can tell that is the low coolant code and the coolant sensor Hi volt the sensor is new and I had all the codes cleared when I had it inspected and the only code was the low coolant, so could this be a ground problem? This electronic stuff is all new to me lol
Thanks Jason

[luvrbus]

Jason you didn't Teflon tape or a sealant on the sensor did you ?

[jmblake]

Yes, I used the liquid teflon sealant. Wrong thing to do I take.

[OneLapper]

Yes, I used the liquid teflon sealant. Wrong thing to do I take.

In short, yes, wrong thing to do.  The sensor needs to be installed without sealant or tape.  It needs a good connection, or ground, to the engine to work properly.

[thomasinnv]

The sensor grounds through the threads. Clean the threads on the sensor and the hole and don't put anything on it when you put it back in.

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[jmblake]

live and learn I will drain the tank down and clean it up and reinstall, what about the low oil light? I didn't touch it lol
Jason

[jmblake]

Will I have to have the codes cleared or once I fix it will the light stay off?
Jason

[brmax]

Jason before you do all your draining, you might use your electric meter and check the ohms or resistance from say the part of the sensor uncovered and to the tank and in comparison to other areas of good ground points.
As you mention the hi volt code of the sensor signal, agreed here that is standard sign for some ground issues, but always seems good to do the ol test and measure.
cant hurt
Floyd

[brmax]

I pretty sure the low coolant light will go out, on that repaired issue and code will auto change to historic.  While on that how many wire sender is installed.
Some maybe different, and I'm prying  you swapped engines I was curious was there a location change in the cooling tank and new radiator.

have a good day there
Floyd

[jmblake]

Floyd, Yes I changed engines, I bought the hole transit bus to do the swap wiring harness and all, my tank and radiator stayed where they were, I just removed the passenger side radiator and put the air charge cooler in its place. As far as the sender it was a new one that came with the transit bus because there old one crusted over and was throwing the same codes, it has 2 wires on it, and for the way home we just jumped the two wires together and the coolant light went off.
Jason

[brmax]

Thanks Jason, I remembered that swap later on and wanted to check back.
I had one that had a wire on a threaded post and one on the side of the sender screwed in so wanted to ask. There seems a few different ones out there w/plugins and all.
Floyd

[jmblake]

Update: Well I took the sender out and cleaned the threads, I didn't have any sealant on the threads other than a little bit of the red sealer that came on the sender. and the lights are still coming on I did check the ohms resistance from the sender to the tank and from the sender to the metal frame and they are the same. The tank is mounted on rubber bushings but it seems to be grounding through the bolts. Any other idea's for me to check is greatly appreciated. Thanks Jason

[blue_goose]

Looks like a bad sensor,  you said that when you shorted the wires the light went off.  The sensor should short when the coolant covers it.
Jack

[jmblake]

Jack, that was with the old sender on the trip home with the Donner bus. This was a new sender, It doesn't go out now when I jump it. Jason

[blue_goose]

All the sensor does is ground wire #115.   Wire #115 goes to pin H3 on the ECM plug is it is grounded the light will go out.  Try grounding the wire to a good ground.  Your wire could have a brake somewhere between the sensor and plug on the ECM
Jack